Range Rover Vogue LSE overheating...

have you tried back-flushing the radiator with a hose pipe to remove the blockage? (if thats where the problem is) i did this with my lse when i changed the head gaskets and alot of rusty water came out.

doesnt always get it all out, best off with a new one to eliminate and also for long term if hes keeping it!

fett said:

doesnt always get it all out, best off with a new one to eliminate and also for long term if hes keeping it!

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"if" I'm keeping it? I'm bloody stuck with it now!



I'm starting to think the gaskets may well be gone, as I've found a bodged home made pressure relief valve on one of the hoses - who'd go to the bother of removing the stat and fitting a relief valve if it was something simple like the rad?

That said, the radiator definitely appears to be blocked so will change it first along with the water pump and take it from there.

I'm tempted to do the gaskets myself as I'm off this week - is it a nightmare or fairly straightforward?

Also, looking at the radiator from a removal viewpoint, there appears to be some solid pipes bolted onto it, but access is zero or limited. Is there a technique to removing them?

Thanks again for all the input - can't wait to get everything sorted and drive the thing properly.

Cheers,

Brian.

yes you can do it , but get oem quality gaskets and check the heads are flat before putting them back as they may need a skim.

sorry to be a bad news man but it may also be the block thats at fault so it may not be the end of it. is your car fitted with cats?

when the heads are off you looking for a ring around the top of the bore indciating that the liner has slipped down, if it has then headgaskets wont fix it and you will need a new block or to have yours top hat linered.

this may not be the case but just letting you know before you start stripping bits!

on the upside the gasket sets arnt too pricey so you can always just try it if you dont mind the labour , ie yourself out inthe cold covered in oil

Hi try a compression test to claryfy . I did with mine gasket was fine [cracked liner ]
hope yours is simpler .
dont you just love bay of e :doh:

the head gaskets are reasonably straightforward to change. just take pictures as you take things apart and label the belts as you take them off the front. if its the same as my 93 lse, it will have 3 v groove belts that are slightly different in length so it took a couple of attempts to put them back! the solid pipes are oil coolers, one for engine oil (drivers side) and the other for gearbox oil (passenger side). yes a second oil cooler for the gearbox??? you should have access to these with the plastic fan guard removed. try to seal these up with some clean 'bungs', especially the gearbox one if you dont plan on changing the fluid at the same time. also, dont forget the earth leads on the back of each head and only use 10 bolts when refitting the heads.

Righto...

khryztal has very kindly sent me out a radiator and water pump, so i got on with removing the old bits this morning...and I'm hoping the new bits turn up this afternoon.

Started off trying to remove the viscous fan...but to no avail. As I'm facing the engine bay from the front of the car, am I correct in trying to loosen it to the left? This is what I have been doing, with a set of mole grips attached to the water pump belt and braced against the air-con pump to stop it moving...it just won't budge.

After an hour faffing around with the fan, I ended up removing the radiator without taking it off. As suspected, the old radiator is in awful condition. It was blocked solid with crud, and the fins turn to dust if you touch them. I really hope this was what was causing the problem.

I'd like to change the water pump before the new rad goes on, any tips for getting the fan off so I can do this?

Hey Vogue, Sorry no idea on nut size sorry.

But hit you spanner the other way to get fan off. Standing in front of the car turn it to the right. Had the same problem yesterday removing fan from the water pump I have sent you out.

Removal off pump is fairly straight forward after that. Remove the pulleys. undo the 11 and 13mm bolts and gently tap pump off.

DO NOT sign for the items until you have opened and checked them. If there is any damage DO NOT accept them.

I used a large adjustable crescent wrench for my fan. Give it a sharp, clockwise knock with a hammer while all belts are still in place to keep things from moving when you whack it.

The water pump is pretty simple, but keep all the different bolts straight because they are all different sizes and a couple of them go all the way through into the block. I laid the new pump flat on a card board box, then marked where each bolt hole was and poked a hole the cardboard for each bolt. When I removed a bolt from the old pump I put it in its proper place on the box template to keep them in the right place. Use a bit copper grease before you reinstall the bolts.

I hope its your problem matey and nothing more serious

Guess what?

She no longer overheats!

Had to give up the battle with the viscous fan for another day, but changed the radiator, filled it up slowly, and so far everything's fine. Even getting hot air out the blowers now.

Ordered a new thermostat to replace the missing one, so that'll arrive tomorrow, and then I'm hoping my new transmission cooler will arrive over the weekend so I can start racking up the miles.

Thank you all so much for the help and advice, and to Khryztal for supplying the radiator.

Guess it looks like I'll be sticking around for a while

VogueLSE4.2 said:

Guess what?

She no longer overheats!

Had to give up the battle with the viscous fan for another day, but changed the radiator, filled it up slowly, and so far everything's fine. Even getting hot air out the blowers now.

Ordered a new thermostat to replace the missing one, so that'll arrive tomorrow, and then I'm hoping my new transmission cooler will arrive over the weekend so I can start racking up the miles.

Thank you all so much for the help and advice, and to Khryztal for supplying the radiator.

Guess it looks like I'll be sticking around for a while

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:clap2:

Hopefully you get a few miles under your belt before the next problem.

is the radiator part of the gearbox oil cooler ? if so they may be bleeding into each other .

get the gear box serviced now then to see if the leaking atf has done any damage

I hope thats the end of the problems for you mate , keep an eye on the top hose pressure on a few long runs!

where did you get the gearbox cooler?

elsie said:

is the radiator part of the gearbox oil cooler ? if so they may be bleeding into each other .

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It's an obvious leak from the cooler itself behind the grill - can see fluid dripping out. I've chemical metal'd it until the new one arrives.

fett said:

I hope thats the end of the problems for you mate , keep an eye on the top hose pressure on a few long runs!

where did you get the gearbox cooler?

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Cheers Fett, took it on a run today and it stayed cool, but it'll be a while before I can take my eyes off the temp gauge.

Got the cooler from fleabay...there's a few for sale on there at the moment. There's even a new one that someone's selling.

goonarmy said:

get the gear box serviced now then to see if the leaking atf has done any damage

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It's on the hit list!

Glad the rad was good. As to the fan they can be a right git to get off.

I'd be careful about using 2nd hand coolers given how early L322 'boxes lunch themselves with alarming regularity, what rubbish might you introduce into your 'box from the "old" cooler?