Range Rover P38 SRS ECU

kermit_rr said:

Don't want them going off when you're off road

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That’s the weird thing ; mine didn’t

Sorry to trouble you guys again so quickly by after your last diagnosis I thought I'd give you another one to consider.
Is there a way to check if I'm getting the necessary boost when required. The reason I ask is that going from 0-30 is a bit pedestrian and only after 30 do I get any noticable acceleration.

Mozzaa said:

Sorry to trouble you guys again so quickly by after your last diagnosis I thought I'd give you another one to consider.
Is there a way to check if I'm getting the necessary boost when required. The reason I ask is that going from 0-30 is a bit pedestrian and only after 30 do I get any noticable acceleration.

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That sounds normal to me, all the action is in the last 30% of throttle pedal travel.
You can see the boost with diagnostics such as Nanocom, a good investment if you plan on keeping the car, it will soon pay for itself.
It may be that the FIP timing neds adjusting to compensate for cam chain stretch, if the modulation is way off it affects performance, does the car start easily when hot?

Its a good starter hot or cold. Definitely drives better when hot. May invest in a Nanocom. Thanks again.

Mozzaa said:

Its a good starter hot or cold. Definitely drives better when hot. May invest in a Nanocom. Thanks again.

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Sounds exactly like mine.

Mozzaa said:

Its a good starter hot or cold. Definitely drives better when hot. May invest in a Nanocom. Thanks again.

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All diesels go better once warmed up

Is the map pipe from the inlet manifold to the sensor on the fuel filter housing ok and not blocked, as that will make them slow.

I'll check it out - thanks.

+1 map pipe. Sometimes splits

brianp38dse said:

Is the map pipe from the inlet manifold to the sensor on the fuel filter housing ok and not blocked, as that will make them slow.

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There was no MAP pipe on my project car, made no difference to the performance at all around and about. As long as the sensor is there and working except at high boost I could detect no difference.

Checked out sensor and pipe. All appears clear and normal. Sounds like it should maybe run like this. Thanks everyone.

Datatek said:

There was no MAP pipe on my project car, made no difference to the performance at all around and about. As long as the sensor is there and working except at high boost I could detect no difference.

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It makes quite a difference on mine flat as a pancake if disconnected.

brianp38dse said:

It makes quite a difference on mine flat as a pancake if disconnected.

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Does your car have a MAF?

Yes

Datatek said:

There was no MAP pipe on my project car, made no difference to the performance at all around and about. As long as the sensor is there and working except at high boost I could detect no difference.

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Mine is terrible with MAP disconnected. Need to rev guts out of it just to pull off would think there was something seriously wrong. Early - no MAF etc.

Datatek said:

Does your car have a MAF?

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Its a 97 so no maf on mine which i am quite happy about as they seam to be lots of money

RangeRoller dt said:

Mine is terrible with MAP disconnected. Need to rev guts out of it just to pull off would think there was something seriously wrong. Early - no MAF etc.

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Yes, on the pre MAF engine the MAP sensor is essential.

brianp38dse said:

Its a 97 so no maf on mine which i am quite happy about as they seam to be lots of money

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But fail very rarely.

Flossie said:

Sounds exactly like mine.

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And mine

Mozzaa said:

Yes

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Try unplugging the MAF and see if it runs better.