Range rover classic ownership, Ha ha ha HELP!!!

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escymad

New Member
Posts
11
Hi all
i recently posted a thread regarding my rangie losing water and getting to erratic tempratures. its the 1988 3.5 classic manual. I have reason to belive it is the header tank that is leaking and the thermosat is bolluxed. any ideas? also could it be the header tank cap?

Also i have a few (haha) other problems that need addressing if anyone can assist.....
1. The passenger window (front) doesnt work
2. You have to slam the drivers side rear door to get it to close properly (only since MOT)
3. You have to give the passenger (front) door handle some stick jiggling it about to get it to open (again only since MOT)
4.I have just fitted a set of modulars (16X7) with 235/70/16 Mud terrain tyres and they are fouling on the front arches slightly when cornering. I have a set of 30mm spacers fitted which make them look the part but how can i overcome this problem....(without too much damage!) i think its only the plastic it is fouiling on at the bottom of the wing.
5 the passenger side wheel (front) sits square to the arch (same gap either side) however the drivers side sits about an inch further back
6. Obviously the Notorious sagging headling lol
7. Ever since the speedo went over 100000 miles it has stuck on that the triop meter works fine but the odometer is stuck. Has been for about 1000 miles.
8. on LPG it runs fine but on petrol it has a lumpy tickover but pulls fine at anything above.

Sorry to waffle on any help on any or all of the above would be greatly appreciated

Thanks in advance

Ry
 
4.I have just fitted a set of modulars (16X7) with 235/70/16 Mud terrain tyres and they are fouling on the front arches slightly when cornering. I have a set of 30mm spacers fitted which make them look the part but how can i overcome this problem....(without too much damage!) i think its only the plastic it is fouiling on at the bottom of the wing.

Ry
They shouldnt do.Is the beasty walling alot?Mine only rub on bumps and the shocks in mine are fubared
 
Sounds like you are enjoying yourself. Buy a manual Haynes do one for about 15 ish pounds. And slowly go through all your problems you can't really do anything without a car manual. Most of the probs you have are just irritations and all can be easily fixed after all Land Rovers a just big Mechano sets. Emjoy :)
 
Ya dont need a manual just feckin wack it.

whoa.gif
 
Regarding point two , did you have any welding done at the bottom of the A post or sills for that MOT?

I did some on mine and it just holds the door off the thckness of my 1.6mm steel plate patch, I dont let it bother me I just slam it a bit harder!:)
 
there was some welding done on the rear sills so i kind of figured it was that but the nothing was done anywhere near the a post.....is there anyway of adjusting the door pins so that it is a slightly looser fit?
 
Aint classics fun to own?

1) I assume it is electric, check fuses, check swith, if both are ok check motor and mechanism.

2)Can you move the door up and down (open door and hold on outer edge) if so hinge pins or hinges are shot (replace) does the door drop when you open it? If none of them try moving the lock pin attached to body slightly.

3) Try pulling handle, then pushing door closed with other hand. My rear passenger door is like this. Latch springs are fubared

4) Do they rub all the time? Or just on lock? If on lock try adjusting the lock adjustment bolts, to stop them wheels turning so far. Have you raised the suspension at all?

5) Check bushes, radius arms, axle casing etc for damage. One or more maybe bent.

6) Most headlineings can be fixed if you are compentant at DIY. Remove from vehicle, remove material from back board, re attached using a good impact/carpet adhesive. DO NOT rush it. Take your time and they go back very well.

7) Try moving to last digit with a small screwdriver. if it moves then check cables etc. If it doesnt move try a small amount of silicon spray polish. may just be stuck. You can get silicon spray from homebase b&Q etc.

8) on older engines the LPG isnt that great at running both. Not sure if its open or closed loop. The timing should be set to run the LPG the best, so runs slightly rough on the liquid juice. A good service will make it slightly better but never perfect.
 
Aint classics fun to own?

1) I assume it is electric, check fuses, check swith, if both are ok check motor and mechanism.

2)Can you move the door up and down (open door and hold on outer edge) if so hinge pins or hinges are shot (replace) does the door drop when you open it? If none of them try moving the lock pin attached to body slightly.

3) Try pulling handle, then pushing door closed with other hand. My rear passenger door is like this. Latch springs are fubared

4) Do they rub all the time? Or just on lock? If on lock try adjusting the lock adjustment bolts, to stop them wheels turning so far. Have you raised the suspension at all?

5) Check bushes, radius arms, axle casing etc for damage. One or more maybe bent.

6) Most headlineings can be fixed if you are compentant at DIY. Remove from vehicle, remove material from back board, re attached using a good impact/carpet adhesive. DO NOT rush it. Take your time and they go back very well.

7) Try moving to last digit with a small screwdriver. if it moves then check cables etc. If it doesnt move try a small amount of silicon spray polish. may just be stuck. You can get silicon spray from homebase b&Q etc.

8) on older engines the LPG isnt that great at running both. Not sure if its open or closed loop. The timing should be set to run the LPG the best, so runs slightly rough on the liquid juice. A good service will make it slightly better but never perfect.

Hows your chassis overhaul going mr K?
 
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