Range Rover Classic EFI Wont Start

hi,got a 1985 3.5 efi,having some problems,started a while ago...here goes...
removed fuel tank to replace rear crossmember,rebuilt after repair,took ages to start(cranking for a very long time),started eventually but ran rough,gave it a good run and added 3 gallons and seemed ok,left parked for a while after repair,now wont start.

there is an intermittent spark now,when i was using the car regularly(before crossmember repair)was a good starter.

i have checked voltage to coil(12v on both sides with ignition on)and cleaned up cap(damp)struggled to get cap back on,seemed to be catching on top of rotor arm(the shaft in distibutor seemed to lift when i removed rotor),so i marked dizzi and rotor position and removed dizzi,then the shaft seemed to click back in place so i refitted but still same.

Sorry for so much info but im really scratching my head here,thanks in advance for any help lads,cheers,chris.

Hi Chris,

Is she points or electric??

When my '93 classic failed to start, I scratched my head for a couple of weeks checking wiring and such...turned out to be a faulty ignition amplifier....

My local spares place has a test box they connect the amp to and it gives either a green or red light depending on wether it works or not...if it was found OK, it was a fiver for the test, if it was broken it was free (aslong as you bought the replacement there!!)

Check that out and also if the rotor arm lifted with the shaft, check the bob weights in the bottom of the dizzy body, if they have fallen off the timing will be out!

If she is electric ingnition, check the reluctor ring gap (star shaped thing under the rotor arm) there is a sensor on a base plate under the dust sheild that picks up the passing of the reluctor ring and fires the amp to discharge the coil...

Good luck and lets us all know how you get on.

Anthony.

hi,thanks for prompt reply,its electronic ignition,i have had the dizzy in bits and had to "guesstimate" the airgap between the 8 sided " trigger" in the dizzy as it is adjustable,i set it to where i could see the bolt had been before,the spec on this gap would be gratefully received,if you have it,for reference the car is an "85 c" but seems to be "86" spec as it is a 4 speed auto,thanks.

redfives said:

hi,thanks for prompt reply,its electronic ignition,i have had the dizzy in bits and had to "guesstimate" the airgap between the 8 sided " trigger" in the dizzy as it is adjustable,i set it to where i could see the bolt had been before,the spec on this gap would be gratefully received,if you have it,for reference the car is an "85 c" but seems to be "86" spec as it is a 4 speed auto,thanks.

Click to expand...

The air gap can be set using a piece of 80gsm copier paper. Tear off a strip of paper, fold it in half - hey presto a non-metallic feeler gauge of the right thickness. If you do a search you'll find lots of info on starting/running fixes. You should also check that the mechanical and vacuum advance/retard are working properly.

When you time the engne up, make sure the timing isn't "wandering" due to a stretched timing chain - I had that problem on my 3.9.

Have a look at this thread:

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f10/sparking-problems-70915.html

Hi Fella,s,got it running,mostly thanks to the tips in the other thread,i think my problem was caused by dirty connections on the ignition amplifier,i have cleaned up ALL underbonnet earths aswell,and while the dizzi was out i set up the bob weights properly(seized!)and cleaned up all the ht leads,also cleaned and regapped the plugs(kept flooding)the rr now runs better than ever and starts much quicker than it ever has,thanks to both of you for your help,im very grateful,cheers,chris.