ramps for radius arm bushes?

gonna start radius arm bushes later. I have read that i should drop her on to the stops to vet the arms on and off so, will i be ok doing it with front wheels on ramps?

Don't know about P38s but when doing the disco I wanted everything level when I was doing my arms as getting things lined up involved big bars for leverage and fbh to help everything into place, not sure I would be happy with the front end higher than the other.

I see what you are saying but if she is on the stops, wont everything be level, respectively speaking, or were you talking about possible rolling?

You need the chassis on stands and a jack under the axle to raise and lower it. Front wheels on ramps is suicide.

wammers said:

You need the chassis on stands and a jack under the axle to raise and lower it. Front wheels on ramps is suicide.

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+1

Radius arms can take some serious force to shift, both taking them off and putting them on again. I'd want (and when I did mine I had) the vehicles on level concrete, securely chocked. Ok mine were a Disco and a 90 but I'd think the same applies to a P38.

Paul D said:

+1

Radius arms can take some serious force to shift, both taking them off and putting them on again. I'd want (and when I did mine I had) the vehicles on level concrete, securely chocked. Ok mine were a Disco and a 90 but I'd think the same applies to a P38.

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And also only do one side at a time. Taking them both of at once can get you in some serious trouble.

wammers said:

And also only do one side at a time. Taking them both of at once can get you in some serious trouble.

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That's a good point .. and also make sure when you're replacing them that you do one, but leave all the nuts fitted but very loose, the axle needs to move to allow the radius arms to locate to the chassis bushes .. When I did mine I tightened the chassis end bushes first, this gives a definite, solid, location for tightening the front two bushes on each side. Do 'em evenly as possible, this is a time when even a cheap torque wrench can help get them both torqued evenly .. the number doesn't matter so much (effin' tight) as that both sides are near as dammit the same ..

Cheers for the replies chaps. Doing it tonight, hopefully. Where about 's on the chassis is the best place for the stands? And if i do one side at a time, do i only need to jack the axle on the side i am working on by the wheel hub or, do i jack the axle in the middle under the diff? Sorry to ask so many daft questions but i am attempting stuff that i have never done before. Couldn't do it without the help on here from you guys. Massive thank you as money has been tight lately and you have saved me a small fortune already. plus, my knowledge and confidence have grown considerably.
Amazing what you can accomplish when you have a little back up and support. ��

B&Q sell torque wrenches for around £30. Will they be okay?

Gadgetz said:

B&Q sell torque wrenches for around £30. Will they be okay?

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Don't need a torque wrench just crank the buggers up tight they are not that critical. You will need two jacks to keep the axle level or have problems getting the holes to line up. Or use a stand at one side and move the axle around with the jack at the other side.

I had to use a 3' breaker bar and brace my legs on the chassis rails to free mine off on the disco and use a eat **** strap to pull the axle back into place when I did mine. It might be worth cracking the nuts off with all four wheels on the ground then lifting it to remove them fully.

Will try and start nuts and bolts on the ground.once free can i jack one side or do i have to jack both sides of the axle?

Gadgetz said:

Will try and start nuts and bolts on the ground.once free can i jack one side or do i have to jack both sides of the axle?

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Yo maybe lucky and get them out, i had to saw through all of mine. Proper ball ache.

As said (are me and Wammers a double act?) torque wrench not critical if you don't have one .. I used one 'cos I have one available. More important is to get them even each side, and as said, as tight as a tight thing on a tighter than usual day.

If Bushwwacker needed a 3' breaker, they were _VERY_ tight, he's not a small chap ..

paul d said:

as said (are me and wammers a double act?) torque wrench not critical if you don't have one .. I used one 'cos i have one available. More important is to get them even each side, and as said, as tight as a tight thing on a tighter than usual day.

if bushwwacker needed a 3' breaker, they were _very_ tight, he's not a small chap ..

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:d

Paul D said:

As said (are me and Wammers a double act?) torque wrench not critical if you don't have one .. I used one 'cos I have one available. More important is to get them even each side, and as said, as tight as a tight thing on a tighter than usual day.

If Bushwwacker needed a 3' breaker, they were _VERY_ tight, he's not a small chap ..

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Paul nobody is small chap compared to you

bushwwacker said:

I had to use a 3' breaker bar and brace my legs on the chassis rails to free mine off on the disco and use a eat **** strap to pull the axle back into place when I did mine. It might be worth cracking the nuts off with all four wheels on the ground then lifting it to remove them fully.

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I had to use a ratchet strap between the axle and the centre cross member to pull it back enough before the bolts fitted. Also helped the chassis bushes and gave more thread to get the nut on.

If I can help did mine a few weeks ago. on stands on my drive was tough but managed it. Tricks I found. have a couple of jacks so you can manipulate the axle a little. Save an axle stand for the small end of radius arm it'll help when handling under the car.
To get the end to locate into the chassis I cut down the old rubber (made it thinner) and used it with the old nut to tighten and pull it through into place. When enough thread through swap for new bush and nut.

Cheers for all the helpfull comments. Managed to do it using 2 stands and 2 jacks. The parts i was worried a out, ie. Getting the new bushes in and positioning the arm for the bolts, was easy. Getting the arms off was was a pig as was the height sensor. The whole thing was turning so tried mole grips on the end next to the rubber. Kept coming off due to all the plus oil on it until i realised i could just pull the rubber off, doh!
What made it difficult was the restricted space as my stands and jacks didn't go that high. Every time i turned or reached for something i hit something with my arms or head.
I used a length of threaded rod with big washers and nuts and loads of grease to pop the bushes in and it was a doddle. Cheers to the guy who i got the idea from.
So, next job is roof lining and pillars then hevac to fix. Will try to remember to do some pics.

wammers said:

Yo maybe lucky and get them out, i had to saw through all of mine. Proper ball ache.

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I had to do the same, more than a ball ache...... also a head ache, especially when the frigging radius arm fell on it. Luckily it did no damage other than knock my specs off and some sense into me.....