Disco 2 R380 Rebuild. Broken Synchro

Hi guys,
So I posted in another thread about noises from the gearbox, well I've finally got round to dismantling it.

I managed to get the main casing off, and found some nice little treats waiting in the bottom.




Am I right in thinking these form part of the synchromesh?

The problem started when I was having issues selecting second gear, but after a couple of months that seemed to disappear and it changed into a large 'notch' going into 4th gear.

Is this where the pieces should be? as from a quick glance, the other gears synchros seem to have something there.


I'm also having problems trying to undo the set screw securing the yoke, it just will not budge.
Any tips? Do i have to remove the yoke to be able to remove the extension housing? Or should it just split away from the center plate regardless?



Cheers,
Kane

They certainly look like synchro rings. The block pieces are what the unit slides on to lock the individual gears in position. Not sure which set screw you're trying to undo.

Thanks nigel. Any idea if i can buy a new sychro ring separately. Or do I have to buy the full synchro hub?
The screw is the allen bolt in the top of the selector (last picture), but from looking at other pictures, it seems I can leave this on and the extension housing should still come away.

I've bent two bearing pullers trying to get the oil seal collar off, it just will not seem to move. Will I still be able to remove the housing if I leave it on? So the whole mainshaft passes through the seal?

It would be advisable in this instance to buy the complete hub as you don't know what caused the damage in the first place.
I daresay you can pull the whole mainshaft thro the seal but I'd be inclined to buy a new seal afterwards.

Thanks again,
Well managed to remove the extension housing by pushing the whole mainshaft through the seal. Required a few hits with a rubber mallet.



Now there was more access I had another go at removing the oil seal collar. I tensioned it up again with the bearing puller and then worked away at it with a hammer.



Finally got it free. Such a relief.



I found where the parts earlier had sheared off from.


Also found the remains of a bearing from between the input shaft/pinion and the mainshaft.


Is it likely that this bearing caused the failure of the synchro?

The remaining gears look fine, but I need to strip it down further now to get access to the synchro.

Tight bearings, collars, sleeves and the likes can be heated with a hot air gun. A heat up helps when you put them back on, makes them much easier to refit. heat gun or better still an old deep fat frier

Heating it was going to be my next step. I only held off doing it because I read other people said that the plastic oil feed behind it would get damaged (which made me assume it wasnt replaceable) but ashcroft seems to sell them anyway, so it would have been a hell of a lot easier just to heat it up haha.

Finally got round to dismantling the mainshaft and input shaft.
Remains of the pilot bearing between input and mainshaft and broken 3rd/4th synchro


The next problem was removing the pilot bearing track from the input shaft. I tried heating it with a blowtorch to begin with but no luck.
But now I'm worried I've blued the metal of where the baulk rings sit. Will this be a problem?
In the end I ran a bead of weld around the inner edge and when it cooled it popped right out.



Also I noticed a small chip in the tooth of the 5th lay gear. Ideally I would replace it, but I have been trying to do this on a budget, will it be ok, or should it really be replaced?



Thanks again.