Quick/cheap body capping fix?

kavefish · Apr 14, 2011

My body cappings are rusted thru just ahead of the rear sliding windows - matching holes on both sides. The previous owner just put some tape over it - said it was to pass MOT.

Is there a patch/fix that's a bit more substantial than tape without going to the level of replacing the whole thing? Bit of sanding and body-filler perhaps?

I do eventually want to replace the things, so I don't want to do anything that would unduly complicate the replacement.

On other hand, is replacing the body capping feasible for a one-man n00b job? If so, that might be the way to go. I reckon removing the SW roof would be the worst part - either that or not having anywhere to keep a top-less Landy out of the rain. Never drilled out rivets before - or put any in for that matter. Do you reckon I'd need any special/extra big riveter for the job?

Cheers

jamesmartin · Apr 14, 2011

if you have windscreen hinges undo bolts securing rear sides to tub and pivot up ,you can then remove cappings

MrJC · Apr 14, 2011

I replaced my body cappings on my first 90 as a complete newby. If you look on my profile at minor restoration a few pics and tips. Worth getting new seals and some dum dum. Remove the rear door and unbolt the roof, it will need 2 people to lift it off. Take the sides off. Drill out the old rivets and the old cappings should lever off. If the rear corner bolts are poor then replace them but make a note of how they go back together.... take pics and bag/lable everything. When you put the new cappings on dont expect them to line up with the old rivet holes... clamp them if you can and drill from the inside out. Use the correct 'blind' rivets or you will have little hole that can let water in. You will need to fill the old rivet holes and touch up. Took me 5hrs and I had never done it before. You can add a bead of Tiger seal or similar on your seals when putting the cab back on.

You can do it in a day..... make sure you have ALL the new seals and bits you need before you start. Drilling rivets out is easy... a basic rivet gun from Halfords will do. Having someone give you a hand is good for this job, you can do a side each.

As a temp measure.... replace the old tape

defcrazy · Apr 15, 2011

MrJC said:
I replaced my body cappings on my first 90 as a complete newby. If you look on my profile at minor restoration a few pics and tips. Worth getting new seals and some dum dum. Remove the rear door and unbolt the roof, it will need 2 people to lift it off. Take the sides off. Drill out the old rivets and the old cappings should lever off. If the rear corner bolts are poor then replace them but make a note of how they go back together.... take pics and bag/lable everything. When you put the new cappings on dont expect them to line up with the old rivet holes... clamp them if you can and drill from the inside out. Use the correct 'blind' rivets or you will have little hole that can let water in. You will need to fill the old rivet holes and touch up. Took me 5hrs and I had never done it before. You can add a bead of Tiger seal or similar on your seals when putting the cab back on.

You can do it in a day..... make sure you have ALL the new seals and bits you need before you start. Drilling rivets out is easy... a basic rivet gun from Halfords will do. Having someone give you a hand is good for this job, you can do a side each.

As a temp measure.... replace the old tape

it can be done much easier without removing the roof ,by doing one side at a time and using a peice of wood to prop the roof at the rear whilst the side panel is removed . and if the new cappings dont line up clamp them in place and drill through the existing holes in the BODY not the cappings so theres no need to fill any holes or make new holes in the body . we have done many and its not hard

oil dripper · Apr 15, 2011

MrJC said:
I replaced my body cappings on my first 90 as a complete newby. If you look on my profile at minor restoration a few pics and tips. Worth getting new seals and some dum dum. Remove the rear door and unbolt the roof, it will need 2 people to lift it off. Take the sides off. Drill out the old rivets and the old cappings should lever off. If the rear corner bolts are poor then replace them but make a note of how they go back together.... take pics and bag/lable everything. When you put the new cappings on dont expect them to line up with the old rivet holes... clamp them if you can and drill from the inside out. Use the correct 'blind' rivets or you will have little hole that can let water in. You will need to fill the old rivet holes and touch up. Took me 5hrs and I had never done it before. You can add a bead of Tiger seal or similar on your seals when putting the cab back on.

You can do it in a day..... make sure you have ALL the new seals and bits you need before you start. Drilling rivets out is easy... a basic rivet gun from Halfords will do. Having someone give you a hand is good for this job, you can do a side each.

As a temp measure.... replace the old tape

kinell cant beat abit of hard graft:doh:

jamesmartin · Apr 15, 2011

if youve got hinges dont unbolt roof if not you will have to remove sides ,dont undo windscreen/roof joint unless you have to

MrJC · Apr 15, 2011

defcrazy said:
it can be done much easier without removing the roof ,by doing one side at a time and using a peice of wood to prop the roof at the rear whilst the side panel is removed . and if the new cappings dont line up clamp them in place and drill through the existing holes in the BODY not the cappings so theres no need to fill any holes or make new holes in the body . we have done many and its not hard

I have heard of propping up the roof from the rear door with a yard brush... but only after I had done mine. I did try drilling through the original holes on the body through to the cappings but I could get it square as the cappings twisted.... you are right and a couple of G clamps would have made it easy and saved a spoon full of filler, I was painting it anyway

I would certainly go for the prop up rather than remove the roof if I was doing it again.... sealing it all up again and getting it water proof again can take longer than doing the job.

kavefish · Apr 17, 2011

Good stuff. I do have hinges at the base of the windscreen so if I do get up the guts to try that's the route I'll take. Cheers!

rd10014 · Apr 22, 2012

defcrazy said:
it can be done much easier without removing the roof ,by doing one side at a time and using a peice of wood to prop the roof at the rear whilst the side panel is removed . and if the new cappings dont line up clamp them in place and drill through the existing holes in the BODY not the cappings so theres no need to fill any holes or make new holes in the body . we have done many and its not hard

Great News, yours was the most uplifting, I thought I had a tremendous amount of work ahead of me.

Question, to target one side at a time, what would be the process (in detail) once the rear door is off and appox timeline for each side. I own a 1997 Defender 90 Wagon. Your input is greatly appreciated. You can also email me direct at [email protected]

I live in New York, NY.

Kind regards,

Ronnie

DiscoPol · Apr 22, 2012

rd10014 said:
Question, to target one side at a time, what would be the process (in detail) once the rear door is off and appox timeline for each side.

I live in New York, NY.

Kind regards,

Ronnie

and a time warp apparently

Quick/cheap body capping fix?

kavefish

Active Member

jamesmartin

Well-Known Member

MrJC

Well-Known Member

defcrazy

Active Member

oil dripper

Well-Known Member

jamesmartin

Well-Known Member

MrJC

Well-Known Member

kavefish

Active Member

rd10014

New Member

DiscoPol

Well-Known Member

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