Question about slipped liners/Head gaskets, confused.com!

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Well I ordered the bits from Island 4x4, they were marked as "Quality aftermarket"... They arrived in britpart bags! Not exactly my idea of quality!
I suppose marking them as "Lacking in quality aftermarket" or "Shoddy quality aftermarket" wouldn't help to sell them really! But lesson learned!

I'll reserve judgement to be honest and fit what I have although I'm not convinced...
Planning for the worst to be honest Fett. If this load of bits doesn't help going to change the gaskets and then as a last ditch attempt bodge this one and lob some K seal or Irontite in there. I know its a proper bodge but it'll hopefully buy me a little extra time so I can source another engine.

I can't afford a new block or top hats but I read that Emmotts of Colne pressure test their second hand blocks so may have to go that route.

Can anyone explain why we love Landrover so much?
At this particular moment in time I'd like to take the quality control lot who checked the blocks and birch the bloody lot of em!
 
yesh I use lr direct as it says on there site who makes the parts and the quality spec and gives you several options to choose from. but you need the part numbers for it- I sometimes nick them from paddocks site :p

not sure why we love em, they are a pain in the ass but we keep coming back for more :doh:
 
not sure why we love em, they are a pain in the ass but we keep coming back for more :doh:

Mugs?
Gluttons for punishment?
Maybe its the sense of adventure we get from them... the "are we going to make it?" feeling?!

Having a nose on flea bay, would I have any issues fitting a 4.6 in there if it came to it? Also, do I have to fit like for like regarding Thor or Gems? Not bothered if its a 4.0 or 4.6 to be honest just gives me more to choose from.
 
I could be very wrong, but I don't think THOR and GEMS are inter-compatible with each other due to different Engine Management system and also the sensor readings etc fed back to the BeCM....

As for a 4.6 Block in place of a 4.0....I am sure there where Engine Management Differences too due to different fuel mappings etc....

Those better in the know than I would surely indentify the diffrences and possible work arounds...

Sorry my post hasn't been much help really other than muddying waters as it were....
 
a friend of mine has just bought a brand new engine for 1500 quid. The guy he bought it from has 50 of them apparently
These are BRAND NEW and are the later modified type called gemini blocks I believe which have thicker cast alloy bores designed by cosworth
I can try and get a number for you or anyone else that needs one
I am not sure if the engines are complete or just new short motors I was under the impression they were complete
absolute bargain if they are
 
a friend of mine has just bought a brand new engine for 1500 quid. The guy he bought it from has 50 of them apparently
These are BRAND NEW and are the later modified type called gemini blocks I believe which have thicker cast alloy bores designed by cosworth
I can try and get a number for you or anyone else that needs one
I am not sure if the engines are complete or just new short motors I was under the impression they were complete
absolute bargain if they are

Never heard of 'em but I'm sure many of us would be interested! - Even if bought as a spare. Which is what I'd probably do.
 
Love from one side mate,we love them but they don't.

Your right there, they're like stroppy teenagers! :rolleyes:

Blocks sound great, but £1500 is well more then the cars worth. Mines just a 95 base spec hack around, no leather, no cruise, no AC and manual seats etc so it'll just get the dirty second hand lung it deserves! Once I have a prestine example though, that sounds like a great option.

Changed the water pump and thermostat today. The water pump pump doesn't look all that old but the bearing was worn. The pulley had a reasonalble amount of play in it dispite the impeller and pump internals looking in pretty good nick. guessing the excessive play in the viscous fan might have helped there so thats been replaced as well.

The gasket was a mess! A mix of mangled cardboard and silicone! I mean who changes the pump then bodges in the old seal!!
Its obviously been seeping badly as the water signs are there on the bottom of the block and around the hose from the thermostat to the pump so I've replaced that as well to be sure. Not convinced that it was that causing the problem but guessing that if there is excessive pressure in the system its always going to escape out of the weakest point so may as well eliminate that.

Got to fill it up with coolant and run it and see whats what but ran out of light. Fingers crossed!
 
Update time again,

Decided to get out there and get it finished after dinner by torch light.
Refilled the coolant as instructed in RAVE and added kseal in there on advice from my local indy. His verdict was if the block was porous or leaking I had nothing to lose considering the cost of the vehicle, it didn't sound like a major leak due to the lack of overheating and if used correctly wouldn't be an issue, more a back up. either way, its in there now!

Anyhow, suprisingly it fired up straight away (not sure why as if you've seen one of my other threads, starting straight away has been an issue with her for a while!) Let it run the air out, topped up the coolant so it was a 50/50 mix, pre mixed with kseal so it was nicely dispersed and throughly mixed into the coolant and let it go to work while I investigated the cooling system for leaks. Had to nip up one hose and that was it.

Left it idling away, no overheating or leaks. checked it again after 15 or so minutes, no problems. Took it for drive around the town and up the duel carriageway and after another 20 mins of driving, no overheating and no pressure in the top hose... think we may have had a result!

Going to check it again in the morning once everything has cooled down and give it a longer run but I hope I might have it bodged for now and extended the life of my engine a little bit longer, at least long enough to get a spare sorted out just incase. :D
 
its not porus aluminum bore behind liner cracks leaving liner exposed to coolant ,some sealers can work depending on how bad crack is but not for ever but worth ago
 
Cheers James, as I said it'll hopefully buy me a little time to sort out another block. I'm certainly under no illusion thats its going to be a miraculous cure but I've nothing to lose but at least I've got my rangie back and I'm no longer tooling around in a bloody Yaris!! :D
 
Final update for now I hope, the sealer and replacement pump, thermostat and cap have done the job! :D

For the first time after a long run its not used a drop of water! Not a hint of overheating while stuck in traffic so I'm a very happy bunny! Fingers crossed this will at least get me through the winter but think I may just carry a big bottle of coolant and some more Kseal in the boot!

I now have time to sort out a block over the winter and get it swapped out in the spring when I don't need the 4x4 so much.

Final question, should I flush out the remaining sealer or leave it in there?
Anything I sould remove or clean to prevent any further damage?
 
Cheers Fett, it can stay in there and linger!

so happy its actually worked!
So many on here turn there nose up at them, me included and I personally never believed it would work but its done what it said on the tin and proved me wrong so I'm not going to complain... for how long remains to be seen but I'm mobile again and that can only be a good thing! Time to go block hunting!
 
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