PTU PLAY transmission

HI all , so not long had my FL2 2009 hse . I've noticed when i accelorate / under load and take foot off gas viabration feeling like under body , not through steering or feeling on gear stick ... so i got under to take a look and i found play where the prop goes into the PTU , i think this may be my problem , can anyone help with opinion please , pic attached , I have linked a vid if someone would like to listen and clarify my findings
https://we.tl/t-F4UhL65tfI

Thank you

When was the Haldex last serviced properly? Lack of timely servicing can cause the fluid to turn to gel, which then can cause drag on the AWD system.
Does it have 4 identical tyres fitted?
Does the rear diff make a noise?
Test the lower engine mount (below the turbo), as these can fail, causing noise in the drive line.
The FL2 doesn't have an IRD, it has a PTU instead, although it performs a similar function. The PUT is known to fail too, just to add to the potential list of causes.

Nodge68 said:

When was the Haldex last serviced properly? Lack of timely servicing can cause the fluid to turn to gel, which then can cause drag on the AWD system.
Does it have 4 identical tyres fitted?
Does the rear diff make a noise?
Test the lower engine mount (below the turbo), as these can fail, causing noise in the drive line.
The FL2 doesn't have an IRD, it has a PTU instead, although it performs a similar function. The PUT is known to fail too, just to add to the potential list of causes.

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Thanks for getting back to me .... Yes it is called PTU , and my fl2 is also auto .. I was going to do a service on the Haldex myself , filter and fluid change until i discovered the play at the front , To answer your other questions , all Tyers are the same and in good condition , all goodyear efficient grip . the rear diff seems quite and NO up and down play , lower engine mounts seem in good condition , i see its had a new front anti pool bar and bushes too . did you manage to click the link to the vid i put up to see the play ? we have only had this a week and im trying to sort out a few issues but this seems a Major one although the vibration isn't really bad yet but i expect it will get worse .... ive looked at bell engenering who do PTU boxes but i think its going to be an expensive fix

Is it possible on the PTU to take the prop off and run the car , i know some do on older versions ?

clemo 56 said:

until i discovered the play at the front

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Is the play in the CV joint, or the PTU output flange?

clemo 56 said:

Is it possible on the PTU to take the prop off and run the car , i know some do on older versions ?

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It would theoretically be possible, but I've never seen or heard of anyone actually running the FL2 like that.

Nodge68 said:

Is the play in the CV joint, or the PTU output flange?

It would theoretically be possible, but I've never seen or heard of anyone actually running the FL2 like that.

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No play in the CV joints , just up and down play on the output flange , a fair bit , i know that goes to a spline and maybe the bearing that supports that has collapsed , im not sure
https://we.tl/t-F4UhL65tfI this is the play

clemo 56 said:

No play in the CV joints , just up and down play on the output flange , a fair bit , i know that goes to a spline and maybe the bearing that supports that has collapsed , im not sure
https://we.tl/t-F4UhL65tfI this is the play

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In that case, the noise is likely the PTU, as there shouldn't be any play in the bearings.
Mine has had a replacement PTU and around 100k, which seems to be about the distance issues start with them.

Nodge68 said:

In that case, the noise is likely the PTU, as there shouldn't be any play in the bearings.
Mine has had a replacement PTU and around 100k, which seems to be about the distance issues start with them.

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Thanks for your help , its done 119k may i ask where did you get yours , any recommendations

clemo 56 said:

Thanks for your help , its done 119k may i ask where did you get yours , any recommendations

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I got my FL2 with it already replaced. I'd be tempted to rebuild my own, as it doesn't look that difficult. I did my rear diff, which wasn't at all hard to rebuild.
However if you just want a reconditioned unit, then Bell Engineering would probably be the best place to get one.

Goodyear Efficientgrip are the perfect tyre for demonstrating why you need 4 tyres that really are identical rather than appear similar- worth checking yours, are they they identical?....

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/feels-like-driving-with-brakes-on.260939/

There are presumably fewer gears in a PTU to an IRD and I have no experience of a PTU, but there is always some play in an IRD as there will be some take up in the gears. Its a case of how much.

Hi yup they are all Identical ..... so i need to take it to someone that to trust will give an honest opinion as the if the PTU is the problem and has too much play rather than telling me i just need to spend £500 or more on it .... i was going to check and change the oil , is this correct Liqui Moly - Fully Synthetic Gear Oil - 75w90 - GL5 - 1L - 1414
OR Synthetic 75w80 75W/80 Gear Differential Oil 5 Litres GL-4 MB: 235.10 thanks

clemo 56 said:

is this correct Liqui Moly - Fully Synthetic Gear Oil - 75w90 - GL5 - 1L - 1414

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I've got that in my PTU and rear diff, as the diff needs all the help it can get.

Nodge68 said:

I've got that in my PTU and rear diff, as the diff needs all the help it can get.

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Haha , i hear you , great thanks ill go for that

just noticed split outer rear CV boot ... and so the list is growing , do you know are the rear half shafts fairly straight forward as it disconnect stabiliser link undo the Nut and pull straight out of the Diff , i saw something about a special tool ? also something about an oil seal protector , ive not come across that on another car in the past

clemo 56 said:

Nut and pull straight out of the Diff , i saw something about a special tool ?

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The CV joints are held in the diff with C rings, just like most other CV joints.
So once the lower arm bolts are free (hub end is easy) then the CV joint is "popped" with a wedge and hammer. The rearside is harder, as the rear diff casing extension obscures the CV joint. However there is a small hole in the extension does have a hole in it, where a round wedge ended tool can be used to split the joint from the diff.

clemo 56 said:

also something about an oil seal protector , ive not come across that on

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It's prudent to simply replace the oil seals, so reducing the chance of leaking after reassembly.

Nodge68 said:

The CV joints are held in the diff with C rings, just like most other CV joints.
So once the lower arm bolts are free (hub end is easy) then the CV joint is "popped" with a wedge and hammer. The rearside is harder, as the rear diff casing extension obscures the CV joint. However there is a small hole in the extension does have a hole in it, where a round wedge ended tool can be used to split the joint from the diff.


It's prudent to simply replace the oil seals, so reducing the chance of leaking after reassembly.

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Thanks for the info , so you mean grab a couple of new rear diff seals ? and where the shaft goes into the diff you say there is a hole as where you can hit with a wedge tool and then will make the shaft pop out the diff < is that what you mean ? i guess it has a snap ring just the same as outer ?
Thanks for your help

clemo 56 said:

so you mean grab a couple of new rear diff seals ?

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Yes. They are cheap and easy to install, although getting the LH side seal out is awkward, as it's buried in a hole in the diff. The RH side is easy to change.

clemo 56 said:

and where the shaft goes into the diff you say there is a hole as where you can hit with a wedge tool and then will make the shaft pop out the diff < is that what you mean ?

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Yes. There's a 1/2" hole in the diff casing, where a wedged too can be inserted (about 11 o'clock in this picture) ,to allow access to the slot between the casing and the CV joint.

clemo 56 said:

i guess it has a snap ring just the same as outer ?

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Yes, which comes with the usual irritations.

Nodge68 said:

Yes. They are cheap and easy to install, although getting the LH side seal out is awkward, as it's buried in a hole in the diff. The RH side is easy to change.

Yes. There's a 1/2" hole in the diff casing, where a wedged too can be inserted (about 11 o'clock in this picture) View attachment 238292 ,to allow access to the slot between the casing and the CV joint.

Yes, which comes with the usual irritations.

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Great info , i understand what you mean now , i see the hole in the caseing , Until i can sort out my vibration problem which as of taking it out again today coasting in nutral its quiet but the noise bearing like sound and viabration that feels from the body appears on accelaration and off power , so im not sure if its rear Diff or PTU , i know there is play in the PTU so it could be a bearing in there just not sure ... i have to take the O/S rear shaft out Monday as the CV boot is split apart so i will have to change that so ill have to do some closes inspection , i even thought about taking the prop off and driving just to see if the noise would go , maybe illimanate the rear diff but i don't know anyone that has done this to a Fl2 . anyway thanks for your help i think i have a long road to go down here