FL2 Haldex strip down

Hi chaps.

I’m on phase 2 of my repair/servicing on my 2014 FL2 ! I’ve completed the installation of a replacement PTU and driveshaft, so I’m looking forward to some quieter driving! Now while I have the prop off I decided to remove the Haldex to give it a proper coat of looking at and a thorough clean! The car had no warnings or anything like that so I’m assuming all is Ok with the unit itself.

Once I removed the Haldex I noticed oil and grit build on the outer clutch basket casing, if I spin the top ring/bearing it feels gritty! Obviously crap has been getting in somehow past the seal, which would explain the fact it looked as though something had been leaking on the joint with the rear diff!

I’ve got all the new replacement seals, filters, fresh oil etc, but now I have it out I think I’d like to strip the clutch plates down and check them over for wear and clean off any grit that might be inside the basket! The only problem is I have no idea how to take it apart?

Any help/ideas on how I strip the clutch plates out of the basket without damaging anything? I’ve had the usual Google and YouTube search but drawn a blank!

Cheers

I believe special equipment is needed to reassemble the clutch pack, at least that's what I've read.
I just clean mine with brake clean, including all the oil ways in the unit.

Nodge68 said:

I believe special equipment is needed to reassemble the clutch pack, at least that's what I've read.
I just clean mine with brake clean, including all the oil ways in the unit.

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As I thought! Cheers

I’ll just give it a good blast with the brake cleaner as you say and hope any crap washes out….

Another question while I have you, regards the PTU, I’ve just read on another post that grease should be applied to the splines or sleeve on re-assembly? Is this necessary just for installation purposes of not damaging the oil seals? On the proceedure I followed (from Land Rover) it had a diagram showing grease being applied but for the life of me I couldn’t figure out which bit it was referring to at the time?? I’ll attach a photo..

Instead I just coated the lip of the seals with fresh oil and assembled…

Impending doom or will I be OK for another 50k miles? I don’t really wan to have to take apart just for a dab of grease..

Danger Steve said:

As I thought! Cheers

I’ll just give it a good blast with the brake cleaner as you say and hope any crap washes out….

Another question while I have you, regards the PTU, I’ve just read on another post that grease should be applied to the splines or sleeve on re-assembly? Is this necessary just for installation purposes of not damaging the oil seals? On the proceedure I followed (from Land Rover) it had a diagram showing grease being applied but for the life of me I couldn’t figure out which bit it was referring to at the time?? I’ll attach a photo..

Instead I just coated the lip of the seals with fresh oil and assembled…

Impending doom or will I be OK for another 50k miles? I don’t really wan to have to take apart just for a dab of grease..

View attachment 298153

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The grease is applied to the splines, as it was in manufacture. LR attributed many split failures down to lack of sufficient grease on assembly in the factory. The grease is important as it prevents wear of the splines through fretting and corrosion. Basically the grease prevents spline wear and corrosion build up, which results in very rapid wear of the splines.

Nodge68 said:

The grease is applied to the splines, as it was in manufacture. LR attributed many split failures down to lack of sufficient grease on assembly in the factory. The grease is important as it prevents wear of the splines through fretting and corrosion. Basically the grease prevents spline wear and corrosion build up, which results in very rapid wear of the splines.

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Sounds like it’s coming back off then!

Do you know what type of grease is needed? I’m assuming some kind of Moly grease? And a good dollop of it by the sounds of it?

Danger Steve said:

Sounds like it’s coming back off then!

Do you know what type of grease is needed? I’m assuming some kind of Moly grease? And a good dollop of it by the sounds of it?

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I'd use moly grease.
I think it's possible to spray grease in through the weep hole, which will save taking the PTU out again.

Nodge68 said:

I'd use moly grease.
I think it's possible to spray grease in through the weep hole, which will save taking the PTU out again.

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That’s not a bad idea!

Danger Steve said:

That’s not a bad idea!

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Actually, I’m not sure that would work, it would only cost the outside of the sleeve, not the inside.

Danger Steve said:

Actually, I’m not sure that would work, it would only cost the outside of the sleeve, not the inside.

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I'm thinking that the grease will work its way in in use? I think I'd try it rather than strip the PTU out again.

Hi Did you check out these videos






I am currently thinking my Haldex needs a good service or replacing, grabbing a little when first pulling off, maybe a visit to Bell engineering to check it out is the best course of action.

Arctic2 said:

Hi Did you check out these videos






I am currently thinking my Haldex needs a good service or replacing, grabbing a little when first pulling off, maybe a visit to Bell engineering to check it out is the best course of action.

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Yeah I’ve seen all those, but none show how to take the clutch plates out to inspect them. On the older generation there was a retaining clip that you could take off and they come apart, on this model I can’t figure it out….

As suggested I’m just going to spray a load of brake cleaner in through the holes in the basket and hope and crud washes out! Then do all the usual service parts in the unit before re-fitting.

Any ideas what this seal is for? It came with the seal kit I bought for my Haldex…

Danger Steve said:

Any ideas what this seal is for? It came with the seal kit I bought for my Haldex…

View attachment 298554

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The control valve I believe. I left mine in place.

Any ideas what this seal is for?

View attachment 298554

I’m assuming it part of the

Nodge68 said:

The control valve I believe. I left mine in place.

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Ah Ok! Yes I left mine in place also. Amazing how much crud is inside that Haldex!

I was disappointed with the kit I bought, the o-rings that I assume were to replace those on the pump looked thin and cheap! I decided to leave the original rings on as they had no visible damage. Hopefully they’ll be fine and won’t cause a leak!

On a side note regards the PTU change I did and forgot to grease the splines. I decided to go for it yesterday and take it all back off.. I managed to get the PTU out, greased and back on in just over 2 hours! Amazing how much quicker it was 2nd time around once I had the method. Haha

Danger Steve said:

Any ideas what this seal is for?

View attachment 298554

I’m assuming it part of the

Ah Ok! Yes I left mine in place also. Amazing how much crud is inside that Haldex!

View attachment 298559

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When I did mine, I forgot to flush out the pressure accumulator piston, so mine is now shuddering. I've disconnected mine for the time being, and it drives better as a result.
I've a lot of jobs to do mine in the coming months, so I'll be using the daughters car for a bit I think.

Nodge68 said:

When I did mine, I forgot to flush out the pressure accumulator piston, so mine is now shuddering. I've disconnected mine for the time being, and it drives better as a result.
I've a lot of jobs to do mine in the coming months, so I'll be using the daughters car for a bit I think.

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Hi John.
Is there an area on the Haldex to flush out the pressure accumulator piston, once it is on the bench, on a Gen 4 i am still on the look out for a cheap one to take apart to learn more.

Arctic2 said:

Hi John.
Is there an area on the Haldex to flush out the pressure accumulator piston, once it is on the bench, on a Gen 4 i am still on the look out for a cheap one to take apart to learn more.

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I'm not sure, I missed that step on mine, which I think is why mine is juddering.

Hi there. New fl2 owner with haldex scrabbling shuddering problem on low speed turns only. I believe im in 4wd when i shouldnt be. Read lots posts and watched videos so serviced unit and its the same mby even v slightly worse infact, i remived split open haldex ecu and cleaned with contact cleaner reassmbled and still same. At my wits end tbh and saw this post here. Can i ask has anyone found a way of flushing accumulator without removing as i belive its a big spring you really dont want to try remove. When fuse out problem gone so i assumed was mechanically ok ? exasperated at this point if im honest an im a good 6 hrs away from bell engineering. Ive managed to secure a full unit from a breakers so going to swap components off that in the hope i fix it that way. Other than this i love the car my mrs has newer one also we both love them

Mugatu78 said:

Hi there. New fl2 owner with haldex scrabbling shuddering problem on low speed turns only. I believe im in 4wd when i shouldnt be. Read lots posts and watched videos so serviced unit and its the same mby even v slightly worse infact, i remived split open haldex ecu and cleaned with contact cleaner reassmbled and still same. At my wits end tbh and saw this post here. Can i ask has anyone found a way of flushing accumulator without removing as i belive its a big spring you really dont want to try remove. When fuse out problem gone so i assumed was mechanically ok ? exasperated at this point if im honest an im a good 6 hrs away from bell engineering. Ive managed to secure a full unit from a breakers so going to swap components off that in the hope i fix it that way. Other than this i love the car my mrs has newer one also we both love them

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Be careful, as Bell Engineering can't open and clean the accumulator, so don't offer a guarantee on an old Haldex repair.

There appears to be no sure way to clean the accumulator without disassembly, which requires specialist tools.
The best you can do at home is to try to flush the accumulator, and hope for the best.

I'm driving mine in 2WD at the moment, as mine is also scrabbling on cornering and under heavy acceleration in a straight line. I also found the steering is lighter and picked up about 2 MPG running 2WD, which proves it's basically stuck in AWD.

I'll get round to investigating the issue at some point, but for now I'll be using it in 2WD.