Propshaft nut & bolt replacements - are they special?

Hi all

I had to change a UJ on my front propshaft recently and after a lot of cussing and severely scraped knuckles i managed to get the job done.

However, due to the state of the bolt heads and nuts being ( previously) slightly rounded and now a lot more rounded i would like to replace at least the nuts if not the bolts as well.

My question is twofold.

1. are the nuts and bolts "special" type designed for the propshaft? I could understand the bolts maybe due to torque but the nuts look like standard imp unf nyloc.

2. is it required to have the bolts on the transfer box end captive as opposed to being able to remove them like the front end? having them the same as the front would make life a lot easier to change out as and when required without disturbing flanges etc. Would also make me more inclined to change sooner rather than later if faces start degrading. If you can put the bolts in the other way around is it possible to remove those that are captive without disturbing the flange ie micro-cutting disc tool like a dremel and cut heads off?

Thanks for any input.
Rgds
Kev

I just replaced the nuts on mine i think 3/8 unf is the correct size, if you get the bolts from craddocks /paddocks watch out as they are not marked so you wont know the tensile strength.
Cutting the heads of would work fine, im not sure why the bolts are that way around as std


Ltnall

as your not there very often get the bolt's from a Genuine scource or an engineering company . tensile strength is all here . to save you skin there is a proper tool avalable for the job , got mine from landranger ,about £15 .00 , money well spent as it's 1/2 inch drive and goes on the windy gun .

I've just replaced mine after putting a new prop on, and I just took the rear flange off (Not a big job if I'm honest) http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f41/transfer-box-front-output-bearing-oil-seal-renewal-81771.html because I wanted to do it 'right' and have the bolts facing forward. Apparently it's so they stay in if the nuts ever come off (not right likely though) I also managed it with a length of straight bar instead of a special tool like Busters BUT after a few searches apparantly a lot of people simply cut off the old bolts, so basically it's up to you really.
The bolts are different lengths for the front and rear, longer ones at the back I think it was, not sure if they are "Special" I just asked for the two sets of "Prop bolts and nuts" from my local Indy, the nuts certainly didn't look "Special" if thats any use to you.
Don't know how much help any of that was, but I'm off to the pub now, so I will bid you all goodnight

lynall said:

I just replaced the nuts on mine i think 3/8 unf is the correct size, if you get the bolts from craddocks /paddocks watch out as they are not marked so you wont know the tensile strength.
Cutting the heads of would work fine, im not sure why the bolts are that way around as std


Ltnall

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Hi Lynall
IIRC i was using 9/16 spanner removing the old ones on mine the other day!
I think even the ebay propshaft tool is 9/16 ( or is this just the nuts?? can't remember if it was a different head size on the bolt)

With regards to tensile strength do you know what it should be? i've been browsing ebay as well and there are several different looking bolts ( black, silver, stainless etc ). Obviously as a safety issue i want to get the right ones even if it means LR dealer.

Cheers
Kev

Thanks guys

I am quite happy to use genuine LR bolts as a matter of safety and as pointed out hopefully not in and out with the PS to often.
I didn't really want to get into removing the flange, bearing seal etc as nothing wrong with current one (hopefully).
Just really wanted to have something to go for peace of mind.
I personally think the nuts will be standard and the bolts high tensile, also i understand "trapping" the bolt but if it was so vital why not at both ends? Also chances of all nylocs coming loose is pretty slim to none!! ( someone will correct i'm sure )
After taking most of my thumb knuckle off the other day i went straight on fleabay and purchased the extended "propshaft tool" .

Appreciate the feed back
Rgds
Kev

they are 9/16 you can use M8 nuts and bolts but i always buy the right one so i can use my propshaft tool on them

Thanks Andy

Is that nut and bolt head?
Rgds
Kev

why such confusion? the bolts and nuts take a 9/16th spanner/socket

buy the tool from Difflock as they designed it and they should get the money (not the ebay copycats!).

buy the bolts and nuts from your indi dealer or from a engineering firm. They need to be rated and these will be seen by 3 marks on the bolt head (Grade 5), yes the nuts are standard nyloc.

a good article on tensile strength markings here: Bolt Distinguishing Charateristics

G

Griffdowg said:

why such confusion? the bolts and nuts take a 9/16th spanner/socket

buy the tool from Difflock as they designed it and they should get the money (not the ebay copycats!).

buy the bolts and nuts from your indi dealer or from a engineering firm. They need to be rated and these will be seen by 3 marks on the bolt head (Grade 5), yes the nuts are standard nyloc.

a good article on tensile strength markings here: Bolt Distinguishing Charateristics

G

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Thanks G

Not being a mechanic, engineer and new to Land Rovers as always i find the opinions and knowledge of the more experienced owners a great source of information on the forums.

The info on the bolts regarding the markings and grade is such an example as i was unaware of this. Judging by the various "designed for propshaft" bolts advertised on ebay i would say there may be others in the same boat as myself and possibly some running with incorrect items fitted.

I am quite happy to ( and will in this case ) buy genuine LR bolts but if i can find the same quality and strength bolts cheaper elsewhere i will also consider those.

The only reason i bought my tool on ebay is that was the only place i had seen one at the time. Again, thanks to your info i have now found the difflock site and have already started to make a wish list!!

Appreciate the link to the article on tensile strength as well, will read with interest.

Cheers
Kev

I got my prop tool from difflock there stuff is good

As for the tensile strength (the amount of force to stretch it) it isnt really a big factor here ie you dont really need high tensile bolts as technically the bolts will never be stretched as the prop has a sliding joint which will take up "the stretch". Where it is important is where things are going to be stretched like the tow ball. A high tensile bolt does't have any better charactistics for rotation stress as a lower tensile bolt.

Glad all that time i spent in metalurgy at college wasnt a complete waste of time.

I like to replace like for like on my landy bolts the lot, ok i might not buy genuine items all the time but i do like to buy good quality components and yes i do use a lot of britpart never had a problem with them.

I always check the bolts head for the tensile strength before i buy replacements, but i have boxes of nuts and bolts in most sizes.

Quick point stainless steel nuts and bolts do not have anywhere near the same tensile strength as there steel counterparts..

So be carefull where you use them

Ah just used a socket on an extension bar....



Photie shows a 14mm spanner, but more than likely it will be a 9/16ths

When i took mine off the first time Buster the heads were pretty mangled hence slippages and loss of knuckle skin!! They were on bloody tight despite releasing agent over several days before trying. I had to use spanners as no imperial sockets ( metric slipped!!)
New nuts and bolts going on asap.
cheers
Kev

tensile strength is important as as well as stretch there is sheer strength ,the prop bolts are special in the way that shank is the right length to fit prop flange and drive flange ,

Basically all of my bolts came from my granddad's work, including the ones in my prop shaft. They are at least twice as strong as the originals and rust proof. Can't argue with that.

khaos said:

Basically all of my bolts came from my granddad's work, including the ones in my prop shaft. They are at least twice as strong as the originals and rust proof. Can't argue with that.

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if they are stainless then they are too hard could sheer off

exactly

Thanks guys

I think genuine LR stuff for this area for me.

Rgds
Kev

3/8 i quoted is the bolts size and the 9/16 bit is the spanner size, same as metric would be 12mm bolt is a 19mm spanner std, variations on the theme but you get the idea?
And dont use stainless bolts in any high stress components ever.


Lynall

thanks Lynall
appreciated
rgds
Kev