Prop shaft mounts

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lsains

Member
Posts
49
Hello again guys,

So one of the MOT advisories was the prop shaft mounts. After spending some money on the old girl lately I decided to go with aftermarket mounts. I would now start to describe what a mistake it was and how I wished I bought genuine etc, however I can't get that far as I can't even get the old ones off!!!
Now I have a decent wrench bar and they just dont budge, I hate the thought of going to a garage just for some mounts so apart from some serious tools such as a windy gun, any ideas how I can loosen them?
 
Yes from the MOT station. We use the garage quote a bit so pretty friendly with them.
He basically said the rear prop shaft mounts are looking quite worn,not at the point of replacement but within the next year. As I keep on top of repairs, I just wanted to replace them now. There's 3 of them and are all extremely tight
 
What what what!

3 of them?

The rear diff has 3 mounts. The prop shaft doesn't actually have any mounts - but what are generally known as the prop shaft mounts are the VCU support bearings and there are only 2 of them.
 
lsains said:
Yes from the MOT station. We use the garage quote a bit so pretty friendly with them.
He basically said the rear prop shaft mounts are looking quite worn,not at the point of replacement but within the next year. As I keep on top of repairs, I just wanted to replace them now. There's 3 of them and are all extremely tight
Click to expand...

If the diff mounts are failing, then there's a good chance that the VCU is getting tight.
Cheap mounts are know to fail quite quickly, especially if the VCU is getting tight.
The VCU needs checking using the one wheel up test. Also make sure all tyres are identical, same make, type and size and that pressure is correct in them. Ignore this advice and the repair bill can equal the value of the car.
 
Nodge68 said:
If the diff mounts are failing, then there's a good chance that the VCU is getting tight.
Cheap mounts are know to fail quite quickly, especially if the VCU is getting tight.
The VCU needs checking using the one wheel up test. Also make sure all tyres are identical, same make, type and size and that pressure is correct in them. Ignore this advice and the repair bill can equal the value of the car.
Click to expand...
Read his other thread
 
The Mad Hat Man said:
Read his other thread
Click to expand...
This post you mean. From reading this post, it sounds like the IRD bearings are already shot.
lsains said:
Freelander 1 2004 td4

Hi Guys,

I have a knocking noise which I was hoping someone may know what it is.
The noise is noticeable in low gear when pulling away due to the strain on the engine. You can make the noise happen when holding your foot on the brake and rocking the car in first and reverse.
I have pinpointed the noise and have mistakenly replaced a wrong part which was the driveshaft. So the driveshaft now being new, the noise is coming from the oposite end to the wheel directly from the engine side. It is the drivers front side.
My mechanics experience really only goes to the replacing g of the driveshaft,there on in gets a bit daunting but I would love to hear some ideas what it could be so I can choose to do the work or not.

Many Thanks
Click to expand...
 
Um I'm not sure what you have gained from my posts but you are misunderstood as to your thinking. This new post is not related, if you were to read the end of my last post, I mentioned that I had solved the knocking noise which was from the help of the posts.
These mounts are a completely different issue which I need help with, so I would suggest you eat humble pie and not make assumptions,your actions are why people come off of forums which is a shame because you have knowledge to share.

As an earlier lost suggests, yes I did mean rear diff not prop shaft, my apologies.
 
Hi Nodge,

Thanks for your reply.
I have read a lot about the VCU failing but really conflicted reports as to how to test for it. What you say about the mounts though do make sense, but do you think that it could also be down to wear and tear? I know rubber does wear after a while and the car is now 13 years old




[Q


UOTE="Nodge68, post: 4093042, member: 79035"]If the diff mounts are failing, then there's a good chance that the VCU is getting tight.
Cheap mounts are know to fail quite quickly, especially if the VCU is getting tight.
The VCU needs checking using the one wheel up test. Also make sure all tyres are identical, same make, type and size and that pressure is correct in them. Ignore this advice and the repair bill can equal the value of the car.[/QUOTE]
 
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lsains said:
Hi Nodge,

Thanks for your reply.
I have read a lot about the VCU failing but really conflicted reports as to how to test for it. What you say about the mounts though do make sense, but do you think that it could also be down to wear and tear? I know rubber does wear after a while and the car is now 13 years old
Click to expand...

Generally diff mounts failing is an early sign that the VCU is "loading" up the drive train.
For instance. My VCU tests as acceptable, and the tyres have always been kept as per the owner's manual. The one wheel up test on my VCU times at 1 minute, which is at the high side of acceptable.
My FL1 has 121K miles on it and is now 12 years old and mine has the original diff mounts still fitted. So this shows that diff mount condition is very dependent on VCU condition. If your original diff mounts have failed and your FL1 hasn't done over 100K miles. Then the condition of the VCU needs checking. ;)
 
A couple of things....

1) It is highly unlikely that all 3 mounts have gone. The front one does go quite frequently, but the rear 2 take far less stress and it is highly unlikely that they have failed - especially if the front one is only just coming up for its first replacement.

2) If there is any life left in the originals... they will probably still outlast cheap replacements!

3) They should be reasonably easy to replace - however - 1 side is a welded captive nut, I recon you're trying to undo this, if you put the socket on the other (bolt) end it will come off quite easily. You would have to be a right numpty to make this mistake... I am a right numpty :)

4) As said, the (front) mount wears greater if the VCU is to tight. There are some people who have made a lot of noise at various times saying that the 1 Wheel Up Test is not a good test. This noise can make it look like the 1WUT is not generally accepted as the best method to test your VCU on this independent forum with no outside commercial interest - but it is and it is by a long way. Commercial outfits may promote their own preferred testing methods for what ever reason.

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/tests-new-freelander-owners-should-do-on-their-car.312863/
 
Hmm ok, I'll check out the VCU before I tackle the repair then.....and captive nut, yea I bet that is exactly what I was trying to undo, what a plank! Though in my defence I did only attempt it for 2 minutes at the end of the day, if never of thought of going the bolt side though!

Many Thanks for yours and nodges replies, very helpfull!
 
The Mad Hat Man said:
yu want to listen to these guys on here - they know what they are talking about (As do I) - but you do have to listen.
Click to expand...

I did give you a lifeline and even a compliment but you still insist I don't listen. I think I explained myself pretty well but it looks like your just too stubborn in your approach.
 
pmsl.
I dont need a lifeline. It is you that wants the help, not me.

there is a lot of info on here to help you. I said you have to listen, not that you didnt listen...... but then maybe you cant read :eek::)
 
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