Project Rusty.
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Finally the 12V voltmeter turned up.
It's ****ing rain and I had such big plans but alas, I'm going to stay in the warm and dry today, plenty of time later this week to get it fitted and fill the blank space in the gauge pod.
It's ****ing rain and I had such big plans but alas, I'm going to stay in the warm and dry today, plenty of time later this week to get it fitted and fill the blank space in the gauge pod.
Went out with the lads for a day's green laning, had an awful lot of fun, sustained a bit of damage and we were defeated by one lane, but it was a hoot
Our little brew stop atop the Devils punch bowl.
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Smashing little thing this, little and light, just what the doctor ordered.
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Bit tight and it was a bit of an axle twister with some very steep side slopes.
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Took me some footage to show what it was like from the cab.
And Mrs. Dieseldog even managed to video me from up on the high ground, the video doesn't do it justice I think.
This was the lane that defeated us and the lads looking over the tricky bit that cross axled the 90.
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Seems that a bit of digging on that lane reveals it has defeated a good number of people and needs a bit of repair, nothing a few blokes with pick axes and shovels couldn't fix up or at least make it passable again.
Sustained a bit of damage too
Wing mirror was removed by a telegraph pole that was very tight on a hole in the lane.
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Dented me door and a few scrapes on the side where I slid into the gulley washout.
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But it was a brilliant day out, waffle boards ordered and I've got a new fibreglass handled pick axe and a long handled spade coming from work too.
Looking forward to the next outing and hoping that we can grad a few more of the other lads out to play too.
The lane that defeated you is up the road from me! Seen a fair few stuck/damaged 4x4s there, let my friend take mine down it....what a mistake
neilly
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Fookin'ell!!! coming down is as bad as trying to go up lol I think it needs a few handy guys with pickaxes up there to knock the tops out and fill in the holes, that was the deep hole that defeated Davey's 90, looks like it smashed your indicator and maybe even the headlight surround?
Headlight surround cracked, indicator smashed and wing bent.
Without being too smug I've made it down there dent free which I've got a pint at stake over it when we next go up there
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Like the sound of that LOL
Get your go-pro mounted and show us how it's done
I think going down should be ok but going up will need transverse difflocks at least me finks
flat
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i might give it a skip
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Timing belt change been due a while now and it's a great opportunity to get the twin alternator kit from Gwyn Lewis fitted, I have a couple of cheap LCD volt gauges in my stores so I will fit one in the line to keep track of the voltage output.
The ominous black box???
Lets see what we got inside it........
Looks promising
The full kit of bits needed to make this work.
And the all important instructions for wiring up the alternator.
I was impressed by this little gem, the boys over at GL drilled, tapped and pre-fitted a 90 degree breather fitting into the tensioner pulley mount, nice little touch and it shows how much thought goes into the work they do over there.
Right, enough talking about it, I'm off to go get her done, with a bit of luck I'll be back with more photo's of it all fitted up and running.
The ominous black box???
Lets see what we got inside it........
Looks promising
The full kit of bits needed to make this work.
And the all important instructions for wiring up the alternator.
I was impressed by this little gem, the boys over at GL drilled, tapped and pre-fitted a 90 degree breather fitting into the tensioner pulley mount, nice little touch and it shows how much thought goes into the work they do over there.
Right, enough talking about it, I'm off to go get her done, with a bit of luck I'll be back with more photo's of it all fitted up and running.
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Well the best laid plans of mice and men blah blah blah
All afternoon out there pottering around, everything seized and needed lots of heat and penetrating fluids, currently defeated by the crank timing belt pulley as I lent out my puller and forgot all about it
To make matters worse I have found that the oils seals on the back of the timing case are shot and leaking into the timing case, it was a real mess in there
Some pics of where we are up to now.
Dumped all the coolant and removed the hoses, radiator and intercooler.
Removed the alternator and the PAS pump.
Breaker bar and the 30mm socket on the crank pulley bolt, I put a ratchet strap on it to ensure it was steady.
Ordinarily you should be able to lock the crank pulley up as I have and be able to remove the 4 M8 bolts that secure the pulley to the dampner but I was only able to remove 3 of the 4 and the lat one rounded off, typical really
Remove the stop solenoid feed.
Flick of the key and a big bang later the bolt is free and can be unwound by hand, the pulley, if you're lucky will pull off by hand, if not, you'll need a puller.
Removed the water pump and I noticed a lot of rusty rubbish on the threads so decided to run a die over the threads to clear it all off before I started trying to remove the front cover.
Inside the front cover shows how disgusting it is inside the timing case, very oily.
It was this point that I came to the conclusion that I needed to strip out the whole time chest and do the oil seals in it and the water gallery gasket between the chest and the block.
Put the timing pin in the pump, time the cam to the punch mark on the pulley and the web of the timing chest and the crank pulley to pointer on the back of the timing chest.
Once it's timed at the front, I slid under the truck and put the locking pin in the flywheel.
I've removed the cam pulley and the injection pump pulley, I lent out my puller so have been unable to get the crank pulley off, but I have been busy with the Gunk degreaser and cleaner getting rid of all the oil residues in the casing I could get to.
All that's left is to remove the three bolts out the bottom of the timing case that go through the block stiffening ladder and the sump and then use a puller to remove the crank pulley and then we're home free, well, not quite, still gotta put it all back together again.
Oh, and get that rounded off bolt out of the crank dampner.
All afternoon out there pottering around, everything seized and needed lots of heat and penetrating fluids, currently defeated by the crank timing belt pulley as I lent out my puller and forgot all about it
To make matters worse I have found that the oils seals on the back of the timing case are shot and leaking into the timing case, it was a real mess in there
Some pics of where we are up to now.
Dumped all the coolant and removed the hoses, radiator and intercooler.
Removed the alternator and the PAS pump.
Breaker bar and the 30mm socket on the crank pulley bolt, I put a ratchet strap on it to ensure it was steady.
Ordinarily you should be able to lock the crank pulley up as I have and be able to remove the 4 M8 bolts that secure the pulley to the dampner but I was only able to remove 3 of the 4 and the lat one rounded off, typical really
Remove the stop solenoid feed.
Flick of the key and a big bang later the bolt is free and can be unwound by hand, the pulley, if you're lucky will pull off by hand, if not, you'll need a puller.
Removed the water pump and I noticed a lot of rusty rubbish on the threads so decided to run a die over the threads to clear it all off before I started trying to remove the front cover.
Inside the front cover shows how disgusting it is inside the timing case, very oily.
It was this point that I came to the conclusion that I needed to strip out the whole time chest and do the oil seals in it and the water gallery gasket between the chest and the block.
Put the timing pin in the pump, time the cam to the punch mark on the pulley and the web of the timing chest and the crank pulley to pointer on the back of the timing chest.
Once it's timed at the front, I slid under the truck and put the locking pin in the flywheel.
I've removed the cam pulley and the injection pump pulley, I lent out my puller so have been unable to get the crank pulley off, but I have been busy with the Gunk degreaser and cleaner getting rid of all the oil residues in the casing I could get to.
All that's left is to remove the three bolts out the bottom of the timing case that go through the block stiffening ladder and the sump and then use a puller to remove the crank pulley and then we're home free, well, not quite, still gotta put it all back together again.
Oh, and get that rounded off bolt out of the crank dampner.
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Walloped a 1/2" drive 9mm 12 point socket on that bolt in the dampener, no joy only a split socket
Now the big guns will come out tonight!
Disc cut the pulley, weld a but on the bolt head, leave it to cool and I recons we'll be on to a winner?
Well that's me plan!
Posted this in the general LR forum.
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/battery-warning-lamp.330125/
Basically, 2nd alternator will use a battery warning lamp to excite the alternator to charge but I bought an LED without realizing and need to know whether it will be OK or if I need to get a regular lamp as resistance and current use will be wildly different!
Anyone?
Now the big guns will come out tonight!
Disc cut the pulley, weld a but on the bolt head, leave it to cool and I recons we'll be on to a winner?
Well that's me plan!
Posted this in the general LR forum.
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/battery-warning-lamp.330125/
Basically, 2nd alternator will use a battery warning lamp to excite the alternator to charge but I bought an LED without realizing and need to know whether it will be OK or if I need to get a regular lamp as resistance and current use will be wildly different!
Anyone?
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It seems that I have the answer to the electrical conundrum.
A 100 ohm resistor and a one way diode inline to the alternator, got it sussed, need to find the parts now and get the wiring done in preparation for the alternator wiring up bit.
Tonight I did bugger all really apart from clean up the water pump mating face and hose fittings, took a lot of descaling with a length of emery cloth and scraping to get the old gasket off.
Even fitted a new thermostat and gasket as the old one was sticking open and the engine almost never seemed to get warm, bought a new viscous fan coupling so when it's all back together I will nip over to mums to get the fan shroud and the plastic fan blades that fit on the coupling, been running for years now without a fan but I'm curious to see if it makes a difference to power through the continuous draw of air through the intercooler.
So, the things left to do on the list before we are ready for Monday.
Fit the new aux battery
Wire in the new cable splitter from the aux battery to the aux fuse board
Wire in the new aux alternator including the volt meters for both circuits
Oh and lest I forget, still need to finish fitting new oil seals and gaskets on the timing chest, fit the new timing belt and getting the front end of the engine rebuilt.
I would like to get that pesky little oil thermostat and "O" ring fitted but I will have to see how the time goes as I still have other chores to take care of
A 100 ohm resistor and a one way diode inline to the alternator, got it sussed, need to find the parts now and get the wiring done in preparation for the alternator wiring up bit.
Tonight I did bugger all really apart from clean up the water pump mating face and hose fittings, took a lot of descaling with a length of emery cloth and scraping to get the old gasket off.
Even fitted a new thermostat and gasket as the old one was sticking open and the engine almost never seemed to get warm, bought a new viscous fan coupling so when it's all back together I will nip over to mums to get the fan shroud and the plastic fan blades that fit on the coupling, been running for years now without a fan but I'm curious to see if it makes a difference to power through the continuous draw of air through the intercooler.
So, the things left to do on the list before we are ready for Monday.
Fit the new aux battery
Wire in the new cable splitter from the aux battery to the aux fuse board
Wire in the new aux alternator including the volt meters for both circuits
Oh and lest I forget, still need to finish fitting new oil seals and gaskets on the timing chest, fit the new timing belt and getting the front end of the engine rebuilt.
I would like to get that pesky little oil thermostat and "O" ring fitted but I will have to see how the time goes as I still have other chores to take care of
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I've been busy!
Went from this.
To this.
Had to clean that mess up so I could see the gasket residues off and prepare for the fitting of new ones and the rebuild.
Block to chest gasket smeared with grease to hold it in place and to seal it up, the gallery gasket has had hylomar blue sealant applied to both sides to give it a fighting chance of sealing up properly and the mating face that joins the timing chest to the stiffening ladder has been liberally smeared with hylomar blue.
Then I had to get the timing chest cleaned up and all new seals fitted.
I've always had a thing about badly finished castings and the coolant gallery that passes through the timing chest was no exception to bad finishing so I got out the files and smoothed them out and took out the rough edges.
At this point the timing belt has been replaced and new idler and tensioner pulleys fitted, all the gaskets and seals have been replaced and now it's the home straight so to speak.
Few bits left to do but it's really getting there now.
List of jobs left.
Refit alternator & PAS pump
Refit radiator & intercooler
Fit the new crank pulley
Fit the new aux battery
Wire in the new cable splitter from the aux battery to the aux fuse board
Wire in the new aux alternator including the volt meters for both circuits, but this will most likely wait now as the new electrical components have not yet been delivered so it won't work even if I did fit it.
Off to pick up some rear seats for Rusty tomorrow and will swing by mums to pick up the fan and shroud ready for the viscous fan to be reinstated.
Went from this.
To this.
Had to clean that mess up so I could see the gasket residues off and prepare for the fitting of new ones and the rebuild.
Block to chest gasket smeared with grease to hold it in place and to seal it up, the gallery gasket has had hylomar blue sealant applied to both sides to give it a fighting chance of sealing up properly and the mating face that joins the timing chest to the stiffening ladder has been liberally smeared with hylomar blue.
Then I had to get the timing chest cleaned up and all new seals fitted.
I've always had a thing about badly finished castings and the coolant gallery that passes through the timing chest was no exception to bad finishing so I got out the files and smoothed them out and took out the rough edges.
At this point the timing belt has been replaced and new idler and tensioner pulleys fitted, all the gaskets and seals have been replaced and now it's the home straight so to speak.
Few bits left to do but it's really getting there now.
List of jobs left.
Refit alternator & PAS pump
Refit radiator & intercooler
Fit the new crank pulley
Fit the new aux battery
Wire in the new cable splitter from the aux battery to the aux fuse board
Wire in the new aux alternator including the volt meters for both circuits, but this will most likely wait now as the new electrical components have not yet been delivered so it won't work even if I did fit it.
Off to pick up some rear seats for Rusty tomorrow and will swing by mums to pick up the fan and shroud ready for the viscous fan to be reinstated.
allan downes
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nice just wondering where to buy quality gasgets and seals from as i cannot get a genuine cam seal for a 200 tdi disco anywhere ? have any ideas dieseldog thx
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This is the GACO/Corteco seal which is the identical part as the genuine seals.
https://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/l...co-oil-seal-camshaft-2-5dna-2-5td-200tdi.html
These may come to you in a blue box but don't be deterred unless they are a bland and un-branded seal!
I buy genuine Land Rover parts when I can find them, these very seals have been in my spares box for years waiting for the day I needed them, my biggest problem was not having the other gaskets in stock as I should have, but I have been good and re-ordered all the gaskets used in this episode and will try to get my hands on more of the genuine seals from the main dealers, I could order them from the Land Rover central stores in Metz, France, but will see if I can get them at home first, could always get the Corteco seals as they are about 1/3 price of genuine.
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I was given that crank pin along with the 9.5mm drill bit by a friend in Germany who came over so we we could tackle the very same job I've just done on his Discovery 1 200Tdi from 1994 when I lived in Belgium.
You will need a puller as well though to get the dampener and the timing pulley off (depending on how far you are going with it of course!) and I can recommend this set https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rov...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 it has everything you'll need to lock the pump, lock the crank and pull the gears off the shafts.
I will recommend one of these too https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rov...989430?hash=item441d380fb6:g:AQ0AAOSw1DtXERqq you bolt it to the dampener and use it to hold it fast while you get busy with the big breaker bar to undo the crank pulley bolt, best thing about having this tool is that it can then be used a second time to hold the crank fast while you do the bolt up again, it's tight and you'll need a torque wrench that will go up to 350 Newton Meters or 250lb/ft!!!
Hope that helps.
You should do a build thread here, I like my thread as I use it as a diary and can skim back and read through the stuff I've done and remind myself of how bad it really was LOL
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Last night I had that horrendous pain in the pit of my stomach after having the whole timing case and belts rebuilt, everything fitted, torqued, tested, checked and triple checked, turned the key and it spun over which was good news, bad news, that was all it was doing!
Que much of the f##k sake, panic and wondering what had gone wrong, oops, forgot to put the stop solenoid wire back on and away we go
Out for a quick test drive and there was no real boost as such and the boost gauge was almost unresponsive double oops, forgot the little boost pipe from the small T to the fuel pump and wooosh baaaa, woosh
Big test was today's trip up to Swindon where I was meeting up with @Hicap phill and @discojamz for a very pleasant day trundling along some of Wiltshires green lanes, it was fab and I really must thank everyone again for such a wonderful day out.
Some tight scratchy lanes round ere too, nothing too damaging though.
Very pleased to say that the temperature gauge barely moved above halfway and was quick to get there too so the new thermostat has done the trick there and having fitted the new viscous coupling and refitted the fan and shroud I am pleased with the cooling system working just as it should.
Que much of the f##k sake, panic and wondering what had gone wrong, oops, forgot to put the stop solenoid wire back on
and away we go Out for a quick test drive and there was no real boost as such and the boost gauge was almost unresponsive
double oops, forgot the little boost pipe from the small T to the fuel pump and wooosh baaaa, woosh Big test was today's trip up to Swindon where I was meeting up with @Hicap phill and @discojamz for a very pleasant day trundling along some of Wiltshires green lanes, it was fab and I really must thank everyone again for such a wonderful day out.
Some tight scratchy lanes round ere too, nothing too damaging though.
Very pleased to say that the temperature gauge barely moved above halfway and was quick to get there too so the new thermostat has done the trick there and having fitted the new viscous coupling and refitted the fan and shroud I am pleased with the cooling system working just as it should.
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