P38A Project P38

Henry_b said:

4.0 and 4.6 Thor heads are the same.

The 4.6 is just a stroked 4.0.

The standard liners will have to bored out and the Top hats pressed in.

Click to expand...

ok, that makes sense, on the stroking.

Can that be done to a duff engine?

monkfish24 said:

ok, that makes sense, on the stroking.

Can that be done to a duff engine?

Click to expand...

It can be done to a 4.0 to increase to 4.6 but not really worth the hassle.

Just look for a 4.6 Gems.

Very tempted by this one...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rover-V8...539983?hash=item4d9bb0d84f:g:wfYAAOSw7W9ddpBd

Did a little more work tonight after the wife went out. Cats away mice will play.
Got the engine mounts out which was a bit fiddly, removed the top and bottom nuts from the mounts, lifted the engine and gearbox up tight against the bulkhead and managed to JUST squeeze the mounts out.
The engine is now sitting a lot lower against the bulkhead so should give me a nice amount of room for tomorrow to get the bolts off and engine out. Small problem, my engine crane isn't quite long enough to reach the middle of the engine! DOH!

Excuse the crappy phone photos!

Only thing holding the gearbox up now is that cross-member at the rear of it.

That gearbox and transfer box is a faie weight together, maybe 200kgs?

Grrrrrr said:

Only thing holding the gearbox up now is that cross-member at the rear of it.

That gearbox and transfer box is a faie weight together, maybe 200kgs?

Click to expand...

I was considering taking the box out with the engine, my only issue is I'm working in a pit and don't have anything to hold the weight of the gearbox up, so for now I'm just going to strip the engine out and leave the box in.

Did mine similar, i.e. lifted the engine and removed the mounts. Then dropped it low down to access the bell housing bolts. Before I separated then engine & gearbox, I used a ratchet strap around the chassis rails & under the bel housing to support the box, so it doesn't drop when pulling the engine out.

Hoist was extended using a longer square section from eBay. Means the hoist capacity is lower (about 200kg at full reach), but not an issue with just the engine.

Engine is out!

I think I've decided, basing on reviews and research to go for the Turner's ductile liners. I think it's worth it money wise to make mine a good block. Engines are selling at around £700 on eBay for unknown condition. What's the concensus on these?

Standard top hats are all thats required.

Make sure the block they're being pressed into is not cracked.

A liner only drops when a block cracks etc etc.

Henry_b said:

Standard top hats are all thats required.

Make sure the block they're being pressed into is not cracked.

A liner only drops when a block cracks etc etc.

Click to expand...

I think that's the problem, I can't guarantee another block I buy isn't cracked, I've read a few reports that the ductile liners can go into a cracked block as with the boring out, it then essentially becomes a wet liner with O ring seals top and bottom and will work quite well to repair a damaged block.

Sorry, getting my wires crossed, yes the Turner's are the top hat ductiles. I did get the impression that they can be fitted to a cracked block.

Cracked block = the block is scrap.

Taking a gamble is part of buying any 2nd hand engine.

just have to hope and prey that you buy a good'un!

That or you smear a deathload of Loctite 640 on the liners before fitting them

Henry_b said:

Cracked block = the block is scrap.

Taking a gamble is part of buying any 2nd hand engine.

just have to hope and prey that you buy a good'un!

That or you smear a deathload of Loctite 640 on the liners before fitting them

Click to expand...

Well the chassis is in great Nick, my eventual plan is to do some travelling with it up to some northern climates so I think it may be worth looking at a brand new block...... Where's my credit card gone?

monkfish24 said:

Well the chassis is in great Nick, my eventual plan is to do some travelling with it up to some northern climates so I think it may be worth looking at a brand new block...... Where's my credit card gone?

Click to expand...

My card has crawled under a rock and died.

Turners are where it's at, Phone them and have a talk with Ray.

He'll set you up..

That or someone else!

Henry_b said:

My card has crawled under a rock and died.

Turners are where it's at, Phone them and have a talk with Ray.

He'll set you up..

That or someone else!

Click to expand...

I'll give them a call tomorrow I think.

Get a tidy block before you go bolting expensive parts to it. Are you sure your one is US - nows tome to know for sure while engines out

RangeRoller dt said:

Get a tidy block before you go bolting expensive parts to it. Are you sure your one is US - nows tome to know for sure while engines out

Click to expand...

Don't worry, I won't be throwing money pointlessly. It's the block that I am considering buying but obviously that won't be before the thing is in individual pieces! I'm just trying to find a route that is reasonable in cost but gives me longevity. Longevity is most important to me at the moment.

Do an exchange core unit and “top hats” that way you know block is good.

Did our 4.6. Years ago, with V8tuners. Paul was a gent and understood the logistics problem we had. Flew it air freight and no core exchange.
Loads of options if you can do the spanner work

While you are at it if your game they would go to 5.2 just saying

J

Max is 5.4 450hp IIRC!

That would be fun!

He does love the spannering