Problems starting p38 diesel

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blackburnbertie

blackburnbertie

Member
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53
Location
Blackburn
And if the ABS/TC light illuminating wasn't enough another problem has come up. A week or two ago instead of my MY 2000 diesel starting immediately it took two or three goes for it to fire up. Last Friday my mate diagnosed there was a fault on the Glow Plug control relay. On Saturday it wouldn't start unless I gave it 10-15 attempts, then it would struggle into life. No problems with pick up at all once going. If it's been standing for a couple of hours it fires up straight away. I fitted a new control unit and it started up at he first try even though it had been sat for two days. I went out this morning and it wouldn't start again ( 10-15 attempts then again it struggles into life ) . Could it be knackered glow plugs, injector problems or fuel problem. There are no faults showing on diagnostic now. Heed scratching time.
 
Well bad news it could be all of what you mention and this site is full of all of it, I will try to make it a bit simpler

Starting cycle 2 x heater plugs for 15 seconds a time and spin over, it often will not start

Second time 2 x heater plug cycle for 15 sec, all else off and try, it will attempt to fire

You need to prioritize what you can check or replace cheaply and run it on proper fuel like BP or Shell not supermarket ship fuel

1. Check oil and water for tell-tale head problems

2. Heater plugs of which most are often slowly working or NOT working.

Fit original or Beru plus test they are getting power

3. Remove the air filter and see if it helps

4. Plastic clear pipe on fuel line to see whats going on ref air

If air do leak off pipes and check fuel filter

Could be the in tank fuel pump adding air, check this web sight for into on changing

5. Heater relay you say you have done

6. Injectors test and replace with known items

7. Compression ratio, buy special tools and check out

If low try oil treatment or chill and dream of engine removal

8. Check battery for cranking amps

9. Check starter motor for rpm and re-brush if needed

Often several problems come together to kill the limping Rangy, sounds like heater plugs with??
There will be many other points but these are £65,000 cars for what.........£2000 for a good one
BMW engine engineering is good and well documented so there will be a cure

Its cold all winter in Ukraine, Russia and Poland and mine has had all the above but it still goes even if the locale idiot put a key down the doors last night (((
 
markemark said:
Well bad news it could be all of what you mention and this site is full of all of it, I will try to make it a bit simpler

Starting cycle 2 x heater plugs for 15 seconds a time and spin over, it often will not start

Second time 2 x heater plug cycle for 15 sec, all else off and try, it will attempt to fire

You need to prioritize what you can check or replace cheaply and run it on proper fuel like BP or Shell not supermarket ship fuel

1. Check oil and water for tell-tale head problems

2. Heater plugs of which most are often slowly working or NOT working.

Fit original or Beru plus test they are getting power

3. Remove the air filter and see if it helps

4. Plastic clear pipe on fuel line to see whats going on ref air

If air do leak off pipes and check fuel filter

Could be the in tank fuel pump adding air, check this web sight for into on changing

5. Heater relay you say you have done

6. Injectors test and replace with known items

7. Compression ratio, buy special tools and check out

If low try oil treatment or chill and dream of engine removal

8. Check battery for cranking amps

9. Check starter motor for rpm and re-brush if needed

Often several problems come together to kill the limping Rangy, sounds like heater plugs with??
There will be many other points but these are £65,000 cars for what.........£2000 for a good one
BMW engine engineering is good and well documented so there will be a cure

Its cold all winter in Ukraine, Russia and Poland and mine has had all the above but it still goes even if the locale idiot put a key down the doors last night (((
Click to expand...

In tank pump cannot add air.;)
 
wammers said:
In tank pump cannot add air.;)
Click to expand...
sure ok on mine when it was getting low on fuel it had a cracked plastic part and was sucking air, not problem if you spend £100 to fill it
I was just trying to keep it all simple in my initial reply.......Saudi Arabia fuel is 0.01 euro for one liter so cheaper than a fuel pump ))...Poland is about 0.9 and Russia 0.34.........all cheaper but a long way )))
 
markemark said:
sure ok on mine when it was getting low on fuel it had a cracked plastic part and was sucking air, not problem if you spend £100 to fill it
I was just trying to keep it all simple in my initial reply.......Saudi Arabia fuel is 0.01 euro for one liter so cheaper than a fuel pump ))...Poland is about 0.9 and Russia 0.34.........all cheaper but a long way )))
Click to expand...

The pump and it's mesh inlet are within 10 mm of the bottom of the tank. Fuel can leak out under pressure if the pipe from pump to top of unit is cracked but it cannot suck air unless the tank is completely empty, a pressurised line cannot suck air, it is not possible. If the lift pump is not working the injector pump can suck air past the filter O'rings. Genuine lift pumps have an NRV in them which makes this more likely if they have failed.
 
Well it does not come any cheaper than 1.5m of flex rubber pipe and a bit of fiddle with the fitting of it all.
If you play more the unions on fuel filter housing do not come off, they snap off...........don't be careful just do not try to remove them
I tried very hard to stab my finger changing my leak off pipes
Its now 0 - +1 here and in Bydgoszcz and mine started first turn after 2 x glow plug........that was yesterday ....who knows
I like IPA but any good ale ))
 
Mark Piercy said:
did it work then?
Click to expand...
Err no. Sadly. Went out this morning an it won't start. This is starting to p**s me off. When it runs it's perfect which would suggest the tank pump and the injector pump are fine. Think the only thing to do is get it connected up to a proper Land Rover diagnostic. Then again if it's air getting in, which we tend to think it is then will a diagnostic pick that up? Don't think so some how. I have rave but can't seem to find trouble shooting for fuel system. Any ideas?
 
Grrrrrr said:
Leak off pipe. Get decent genuine Bosch stuff. The ****ty stuff from Island is so thin it is useless. Ask @tomcatalan!
Click to expand...
Didn't do the job. Back to square one. There's plenty of fuel getting through once it's going. Everywhere is bone dry apart from pot no1 hence the off injector lines change. I wouldn't of thought it was the fuel heater but I'll get new seals slapped in the fuel in and out lines. Can't understand why people think it's the intank pump. The tank is rarely below a quarter full. Any thoughts?
 
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