Problem with Range Rover, need help

Hi guys,

I am new here. I have been having quite few problems with my RR P38, but I have somehow sort most of them out. However, the latest problem is too complicated for me, so I thought I'd post it here.

Oh, before I begin, the car is 2.5 diesel (bmw), with an automatic transmission.

Here it goes.... When the engine is cold, it runs fine.

When it warms up, problems begin. First, the engine revvs up to 3000 or more RPMs by itself. At this moment, check engine light comes on. Next moment, rpms drop to about 750, and the CEL goes off. At this point, idling is kind of rough. RPMs jump to 3000 or more every ten or fifteen seconds. Sometimes, when RPMs drop to normal, the car dies. After I turn the engine back on, it's the same story all over again.


Has anyone had similar problem? Please help me.


Best regards,

Mike

To be sure of the problem it needs to go on diagnostics but a good place to start would be to look at the connector for the needle lift sensor on injector number 4. Could also be the crank sensor and many other things.

Crank sensor is brand new, so is the engine (including injectors and fuel pump), tranny and a lot of other things. In tank fuel pump never worked, so I'm not even sure if the car has one. It didn't work when the car was running fine. Problem is still present if I pour fuel manually in injector fuel pump.

RS84 said:

Crank sensor is brand new, so is the engine (including injectors and fuel pump), tranny and a lot of other things. In tank fuel pump never worked, so I'm not even sure if the car has one. It didn't work when the car was running fine. Problem is still present if I pour fuel manually in injector fuel pump.

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Just because lots of bits are new does not mean they are functioning correctly. Crank sensor gap to flywheel must be correct, needle lift sensor must be working and the correct type for EGR or non EGR engines and so on. It will not help if the in tank pump does not work.
Diagnostics are your only way to narrow down the problem.

Hi again,

I need your oppinion....

I have pull the connetor from the 4th injector.

Now, the car does not jump to higher RPMs, but it does occasionaly die while driving.

Any ideas?


Thanks

Datatek said:

Just because lots of bits are new does not mean they are functioning correctly. Crank sensor gap to flywheel must be correct, needle lift sensor must be working and the correct type for EGR or non EGR engines and so on. It will not help if the in tank pump does not work.
Diagnostics are your only way to narrow down the problem.

Click to expand...

Unless you listen to DATATEK and get the car hooked up to some decent diagnostics so that you can see what information the engine electronics are working from then you might as well start swapping out any parts you fancy.

Mike,

Where are you, there may be somone local to you on here that has the correct diagnostic tools for helping you fault find. The senior members on here are the guys to listen to, I have followed DATATEK on one of my issues and hey presto all fixed.

Ask if anyone is local to you that has the tools and i'm sure for some beers tokens you will get the assitance you need.

Cheers
Phil

RS84 said:

Hi again,

I need your oppinion....

I have pull the connetor from the 4th injector.

Now, the car does not jump to higher RPMs, but it does occasionaly die while driving.

Any ideas?


Thanks

Click to expand...

So, it could be the needle lift sensor, try re-connecting it, it might just be a bad connection. However without looking at live data on diagnostics you will never know for sure.

Jelleyman: I'm located in Slovenia, so I doubt that there is anyone near here with proper tester.


I have reconnected 4th injector, and it's still the same.

A friend told me that there is possibility of faulty throttle potentiometer. What do you guys think?


Thanks

RS84 said:

Jelleyman: I'm located in Slovenia, so I doubt that there is anyone near here with proper tester.


I have reconnected 4th injector, and it's still the same.

A friend told me that there is possibility of faulty throttle potentiometer. What do you guys think?


Thanks

Click to expand...

Buy yourself a Nanocom, it will be cheaper than chucking money at changing things based on guesswork.

I have tested the TPS (got instructions here: http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f10/bmw-325-tds-m51-engine-problems-please-help-63855-2.html) and it seems that it works correctly.

I will test it again with engine hot, but I don't think there will be any difference.

I got new 4th injector (free, just for test), and I'm planning on changing it to see if it will make any difference.

I have called dozens of mechanics to see if they have proper tester for my car. All they have are different models of TEXA, but none of those supports this car.

Any new ideas?

Anyone near here with proper tester?

RS84 said:

I have tested the TPS (got instructions here: http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f10/bmw-325-tds-m51-engine-problems-please-help-63855-2.html) and it seems that it works correctly.

I will test it again with engine hot, but I don't think there will be any difference.

I got new 4th injector (free, just for test), and I'm planning on changing it to see if it will make any difference.

I have called dozens of mechanics to see if they have proper tester for my car. All they have are different models of TEXA, but none of those supports this car.

Any new ideas?

Anyone near here with proper tester?

Click to expand...

It was pretty unlikely that it was the throttle position sensor.
Buy yourself a Nanocom from www.blackbox-solutions.com
It will save you a fortune and make you money if there are other P38 owners in your area

Too expensive for me at the moment. Maybe next month, if I decide to keep this car. It has cost me thousands since I bought it. I think I will look for good defender 300tdi in near future.

Also, there is only one Range Rover near here, so with this I would not make any money.


Still open for other suggestions....

Hi again,....

a friend came by with a BOSCH tester. It shows few different mistakes. Here we go:

10 Driving sp. sensor control device short to earth

29 Unknown fault

27 Anti theft device

144 Start of injection control faulty



Could anyone tell me what would ˝29 unknown fault˝ be? What is the location of driving sp. sensor?

Anti theft device will not go away since I had ecu re-programmed to avoid future immobilizer problems. 144 will require a special tool to set a fuel injection pump.


Thanks

Your asking for help then not listening to what you are told. IT NEEDS TO GO FOR PROPPER DIGNOSING (spelling dont care)

^^^^^What he said....

Lol...

aerofabrique said:

Lol...

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Laughing is all you can do sometimes..!!

RS84 said:

Hi again,....

a friend came by with a BOSCH tester. It shows few different mistakes. Here we go:

10 Driving sp. sensor control device short to earth

29 Unknown fault

27 Anti theft device

144 Start of injection control faulty



Could anyone tell me what would ˝29 unknown fault˝ be? What is the location of driving sp. sensor?

Anti theft device will not go away since I had ecu re-programmed to avoid future immobilizer problems. 144 will require a special tool to set a fuel injection pump.


Thanks

Click to expand...

Those fault codes may be meaningless as a lot of LR stuff is non standard.
As was said by me and others a long time ago, you need to get it on proper diagnostics. Start of injection faulty could for example be needle lift sensor or crank sensor rather than the FIP, live data would show this.

Start of injection control is number four injector. But that should not give his problem. That is used for pump timing adjustments. And as a cross reference with crank speed sensor.