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P38A Problem electrics solved

Discussion in 'Range Rover' started by Enuff, Oct 10, 2018.

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  1. Enuff

    Enuff Well-Known Member

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    Well, not solved but many faults will be resolved with this little fix.
    I have 3 main fuse boxes removed from P38s with electrical gremlins. There's a common fault here, I thinks so dismantled the fuse boxes.
    As you can see in the pictures it's very solder heavy but still not enough to cope with massive bolt terminals, time, vibration, heat etc etc
    I know this has been done before but the same fault was on all 3 boxes. The main power feed to fuse boardboard the battery which causes total shut down while driving on the motorway.....which causes poop.... then it fires back up again
    IMG_20181010_063709.jpg IMG_20181010_063811.jpg IMG_20181010_063743.jpg
    Hope this helps. You will need a decent soldering iron and some time to repair.
    Also, this information is just meant to inform, don't do it yourselves. You must consult a skilled blah blah blah.
     
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  2. Pete The Biker

    Pete The Biker Active Member

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    I guess the whole board is flowed with solder in one go, and the heat absorption by the main terminals means that those joints never get as hot as they should to make a good connection.

    Pete
     
  3. Enuff

    Enuff Well-Known Member

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    I agree...I can't get them hot enough without making the board smoke.
    Pete, any suggestions on a solid mechanical fix ? I'm scratching my head.
     
  4. Paul D

    Paul D Old, nackered 'n broke, but the Landy is fine . :) LZIR Despatch Agent

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    How are the threaded terminals fixed? Can you remove them, make a pad of solder on the board, then drill the solder/board and literally bolt some bolts back on, sandwiching the solder?
     
  5. Pete The Biker

    Pete The Biker Active Member

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    I think a low power soldering iron will cook the board, but the terminal will lose heat as fast as you apply it - maybe you need something more high powered like these https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=soldering+gun+150w&ul_noapp=true to pump a lot of heat in quickly.

    But I have to confess that's just theory on my part - maybe someone else can confirm from practical experience.

    Pete
     
  6. biketeacherdave

    biketeacherdave Well-Known Member

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    You just need a higher wattage soldering iron, clean up the PCB around the terminal I mean take it back to good PCB. At the worst you can just bridge it but it don't look bad at all.
    Don't apply the heat to the PCB but the terminal then let the solder flow over to the PCB. Hope that makes sense
     
  7. Enuff

    Enuff Well-Known Member

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    It does...
    It's also a good excuse to buy more tools.
     
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  8. brianp38dse

    brianp38dse Well-Known Member

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    New tools is always good:)
     
  9. Datatek

    Datatek Well-Known Member

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    You certainly need a heavy duty soldering iron to resolder the terminals, but for me that is the only way to do the job. If you have made the board smoke, it will quite likely absorb moisture now, so should be sprayed with conformal coating on both sides when you have done the soldering.
     
  10. Pete The Biker

    Pete The Biker Active Member

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    It would be worth thinking about getting some heat into the terminals by other means before you start soldering - maybe with a hot air gun - to reduce the heat drain into them. But you would need to protect any surrounding components.

    Pete
     
  11. Datatek

    Datatek Well-Known Member

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    That, to me is a recipe for disaster:eek:. A good soldering iron is all that is needed, a cheap gas powered one will do the job.
     
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  12. Grrrrrr

    Grrrrrr Well-Known Member

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    I've got one that runs off lighter fuel and it is an awesome bit of kit. An normal soldering iron just cannot handle the outdoors in this country.
     
  13. Datatek

    Datatek Well-Known Member

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    By lighter fuel, I presume you mean gas not petrol? That's what I have, a real heavy duty job, was useful when working on leisure boats with no shore power.
     
  14. Grrrrrr

    Grrrrrr Well-Known Member

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    Yes, the gas one.
     
  15. wammers

    wammers STILL BREATHING. Donater

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    I have several soldering irons. From small 10 watt for fine board work and 25 watt for loom terminals etc. And a Weller robust 250 watt for heavy cable work. Plus gas blow lamps for anything else.
     
  16. kds

    kds Well-Known Member

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    I have several soldering irons ranging from 12 volt tiny thing to one that nearly needs two hands to lift it, not sure where it came from but it must have been my mums cos its got AM stamped on it and mums name was Alice Margaret;)
     
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  17. wammers

    wammers STILL BREATHING. Donater

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    Silly lad that means it can only be used before midday.:D
     
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  18. kds

    kds Well-Known Member

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    Bugger thats where i`ve been going wrong ! Never get to use it before midday takes me till then getting all my bits on the the move plus all the coughing and spluttering clearing my lungs which think they are 15 years older than the rest of me !
     
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  19. Enuff

    Enuff Well-Known Member

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    IMG_20181012_063636.jpg
    Got myself a 60watt iron for £20 and it worked a treat. Fitted between these pins like a well fitting thing. Also heated the bolts within seconds allowing solder to flow making a excellent solid joint.
    Soldering Not pretty but works fine.
     
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