Probably a dumbass question but...

Have tried searching here, google and looking through busters how to but cant find the answer

Had a problem the other night locking the 110 rear door, key turns fine and from what i can see the little latch inside is moving too but the door wont lock. If you keep the key turned in the barrel the door is locked but once you take the key out it will open.

Not a problem at the mo as it is in a lock up but once it gets through the mot it will be getting used and cant be left if not secure (use that term lightly it is a 110 after all )

Is this a straightforward fix? ie take the mechanism off, open it up or is it new mechanism time. I know discos have a problem with the door springs but not sure of the setup in a 90/110

Any probs opening the door from the inside? Could just be the linkage to the lock pully uppy thingy ( technical talk ) is slightly catching and needs adjusting. Or the mechanism is buggered. Cheap to replace though.

I had exactly the same prob, locked with the key in barrel but when I took the key out you could open the rear door like I never locked it and so I replaced the internal key barrel and all was sorted. Meant a new key though.

cheers for the replies, the barrel does seem quite loose when you put the key in so could be a problem.

Will be going back to it today and get the lock off to have a proper look. Will update on my findings

It could be the small spring which sits in the mech, it it pops out or breaks the door won't lock. Happenened on my 110 and I got a repair kit containing new spring and pop rivets off ebay for less than £5.

Heres the link

Land Rover Defender Safari Door Lock Repair Spring Kit on eBay (end time 04-Nov-10 20:07:53 GMT)

Could be spring mech like the guy said but when I replaced the whole barrel it was so easy, basically slide one out and a new one in and the barrel and keys were so cheap, admittedly a paddocks part but been in a year now with no probs and only the designated key opens the lock (which pleasantly surprised me!!).

A bit of an old trick I used to use, but it's dead easy to make a new barrel fit your old key.

Before you fit the new barrel, put the old key in (be careful not to lose any of the tumblers or tiny little springs) and check to see which of the tumblers are protruding. Then either, try swapping them about to get the best fit or simply gently file down the ones that are protruding too far.

Hey presto, your new barrel works perfectly with your old key.

Seeples as them wee rodents say.

Most old sticky or gummed up barrels can be resurrected by simply cleaning them with de-greaser or WD40. Take the barrel out of the lock, lay a sheet of paper on your workspace and carefully remove the tumblers, laying them out in order so you can put them back into same places unless you plan to make the barrel fit a different key. Then, using something like a sewing needle, gently lift out any springs which have become gummed up, this is the bit where it is so easy to let a spring go ping so cover everything with your hands (or do it with your barrel & hands inside a largish clear bag - food freezer bags are good for this.)

Once you get the springs out, lay them on the palm of your hand (use a cloth if you prefer) and spray on a little WD40, rub your hands together gently as if washing them, then rinse again with WD40. While you have the tumblers out, clean the grooves they sit in when in the barrel. The cleaner you get it the smoother they will move.

When you are happy with the results, re-assemble and you got a nice working lock again. At this point if you are making the barrel fit a different key, file the tumblers down and clean again to remove the filings. A tiny little smear of graphite valve grinding paste will prevent them from getting gummed up again for a very long time.

Coincidentally, I've cannot remember ever having a lock freeze up in the winter when I've done this with the graphite paste.

R.

My rear door doesn't lock properly because the little Tab thing on the box on the inside of the door (god only knows what it is called) will not stay up, but I have cunningly sorted the problem with an elastic band which holds it up, this allows me to open it with only slightly more pressure on the key, you have to keep the key turned while you lift the handle up though. I'm not entirely sure that makes sense to me and I just wrote it . If it doesn't make sense I'l try and explain myself a bit better.

Grimmer said:

My rear door doesn't lock properly because the little Tab thing on the box on the inside of the door (god only knows what it is called) will not stay up, but I have cunningly sorted the problem with an elastic band which holds it up, this allows me to open it with only slightly more pressure on the key, you have to keep the key turned while you lift the handle up though. I'm not entirely sure that makes sense to me and I just wrote it . If it doesn't make sense I'l try and explain myself a bit better.

Click to expand...

makes sense to me (i think ). unfortunately didnt get time to look at it over the weekend with other jobs required for its mot but will have to get it sorted if it passes.