pre-load on swivels S3

M

Megalowmania

Guest

• Feb 10, 2005

• #1

Firstly I'd like to say thanks for all the advice on track rod ends. Very
useful.

I'm in the process of setting the pre-load on the front swivel balls. The
workshop manual says to add or subtract shims ( which I have ordered ) from
the top , however, there are shims at the bottom as well. It doesn't say
how many or what thickness they should be or whether I should keep the same
thickness top and bottom?

I also have a hole in the top of the crossmember behind the Gbox on the
chassis. Can I just cut a hole in the floor and weld or remove the floorpan
complete?

Thanks

Paul
1972 S3 109 SW

 

L

Lee_D

Guest

• Feb 10, 2005

• #2

"Megalowmania" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...

> I also have a hole in the top of the crossmember behind the Gbox on the
> chassis. Can I just cut a hole in the floor and weld or remove the
> floorpan
> complete?


http://www.lrproject.com/jlo/jloresto2/imagepages/image1.htm

You can take the floor out if you drill out the rivets / spot welds
depending on what yours has.

We took this approach but didn't need to remove it all on Sis 109 as we were
only replacing the rear crossmember.

In cour case as we folder the floor upwards cuts had to be made in the floor
braces to allow for the flex.. These can then be plated over at a later time
once refitted with ally and rivets if you so desire.

Lee D

 

M

Megalowmania

Guest

• Feb 10, 2005

• #3

Lee_D wrote:

>
> http://www.lrproject.com/jlo/jloresto2/imagepages/image1.htm
>
> You can take the floor out if you drill out the rivets / spot welds
> depending on what yours has.
>
> We took this approach but didn't need to remove it all on Sis 109 as we
> were only replacing the rear crossmember.
>
> In cour case as we folder the floor upwards cuts had to be made in the
> floor braces to allow for the flex.. These can then be plated over at a
> later time once refitted with ally and rivets if you so desire.
>
> Lee D
Thanks Lee, that helps a lot to see pictures. I can see I might be able to
get away with a small patch but seeing underneath from on top ( if you see
what I mean ) helps with preparation.

Cheers

Paul

 

A

Alex

Guest

• Feb 10, 2005

• #4

On Thu, 10 Feb 2005 13:32:46 +0000, Megalowmania <[email protected]>
wrote:

>Firstly I'd like to say thanks for all the advice on track rod ends. Very
>useful.
>
>I'm in the process of setting the pre-load on the front swivel balls. The
>workshop manual says to add or subtract shims ( which I have ordered ) from
>the top , however, there are shims at the bottom as well. It doesn't say
>how many or what thickness they should be or whether I should keep the same
>thickness top and bottom?
>

No, you add shims at the top only. A swivel pin kit from Bermach
already contains a set of shims, which should be sufficient. According
to the manual you should start with 40thou of shims in it, and work up
or down from there untill the correct pull of 12 to 14lb is obtained.
(From the hole for the track rod, not the drag link) Note that it is
12-14lb to continue to move the swivel, not to get it to start to
move. Also, don't do it with the swivel seal fitted.

Alex

 

M

Megalowmania

Guest

• Feb 11, 2005

• #5

Alex wrote:


> No, you add shims at the top only. A swivel pin kit from Bermach
> already contains a set of shims, which should be sufficient. According
> to the manual you should start with 40thou of shims in it, and work up
> or down from there untill the correct pull of 12 to 14lb is obtained.
> (From the hole for the track rod, not the drag link) Note that it is
> 12-14lb to continue to move the swivel, not to get it to start to
> move. Also, don't do it with the swivel seal fitted.
>
> Alex
Thanks Alex, you'll have to forgive my ignorance, does that mean you start
with 40 thou top and bottem and then only add or subtract from the top?

Thanks

Paul

 

A

Alex

Guest

• Feb 11, 2005

• #6

On Fri, 11 Feb 2005 08:52:54 +0000, Megalowmania <[email protected]>
wrote:

>Alex wrote:
>
>
>> No, you add shims at the top only. A swivel pin kit from Bermach
>> already contains a set of shims, which should be sufficient. According
>> to the manual you should start with 40thou of shims in it, and work up
>> or down from there untill the correct pull of 12 to 14lb is obtained.
>> (From the hole for the track rod, not the drag link) Note that it is
>> 12-14lb to continue to move the swivel, not to get it to start to
>> move. Also, don't do it with the swivel seal fitted.
>>
>> Alex
>Thanks Alex, you'll have to forgive my ignorance, does that mean you start
>with 40 thou top and bottem and then only add or subtract from the top?
>

No, just 40thou at the top. The adjustments are done at the top for
practical reasons. 40 thou is just the reccomended starting point, you
could need more or less.

Alex