Advice on Leaky Swivels

Hi Guy's,

Planning on rebuilding the swivels in the summer when winter has gone, but was checking her over the weekend to fit a new diff guard and one is leaking down the tyre.

I can rebuild it and take the car of the road for a few weeks but with the bad weather and two family members being v seriously sod's law will happen and we will have snow or floods again and I'll need it. We have no chance with ambulances round here before anyone says it. We waited 5 hours last time.

I have one shot grease but my concern is it will leak in a week or two again. I must say this is not to bodge just to delay. If i need to rebuild the lot so be it but i don't want it running dry and breaking mid emergency.

Car gets less than a few hundred a week if its lucky. This is just incase situation.

Can I use some LIQUI MOLY Gear-Oil Leak Stop or something simialr to delay the leak with a one shot or something similar?
Thicker oil?
Any other ideas?

If at worst how long could it take to build a side as i get a feeling I'm going to need to take a week out.

Thanks,

Ben

Feel your pain.
If I was you I'd drain the oil out and put the one shot grease in and stop worrying about it until you can either get someone to rebuild them or find the time to do it yourself. The grease wasn't used until later on in the run of D1s. I cannot tell from your profile how old yours is.
There are various configurations of plugs on the swivels, and mine, a 1998 doesn't conform to what it should be anyway. But the idea of the grease was supposed to be that it wouldn't need topping up so there may or may not be a level plug there. As it is thicker it ought to not run out so fast, especailly in the cooler weather.
Best of luck mate.

I did my lads 90 swivel seals and new bearings last year... not too hard a job to be honest. If I was you, and to echo @Stanleysteamer comment, drain and one shot it... then rebuild later, when laying on your back in the sunshine doesnt make you ache....

Stanleysteamer said:

Feel your pain.
If I was you I'd drain the oil out and put the one shot grease in and stop worrying about it until you can either get someone to rebuild them or find the time to do it yourself. The grease wasn't used until later on in the run of D1s. I cannot tell from your profile how old yours is.
There are various configurations of plugs on the swivels, and mine, a 1998 doesn't conform to what it should be anyway. But the idea of the grease was supposed to be that it wouldn't need topping up so there may or may not be a level plug there. As it is thicker it ought to not run out so fast, especailly in the cooler weather.
Best of luck mate.

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@Stanleysteamer Thanks for the advice, I was going to try the one shot but thought i would ask other's before I did. This is my First Disco and wasn't sure what damage could occur if it ran dry mid drive.

Mine might be similar to yours its a D1 300tdi 97 Auto ES Jap Import, I only see a fill plug on the housing. The fill plugs i've coated in plus gas as I read there a pain.

I have mesaged a mate to see if he would do them for me but he's rammed with work.

Can I do the one side or is it like brakes in that both must be done?

Funny how this D1 was made in Brum went to Japan and then to Spain and end's back not far from where it was made.

Ben

You can do one side.... it doesnt matter.

tilly2 said:

I did my lads 90 swivel seals and new bearings last year... not too hard a job to be honest. If I was you, and to echo @Stanleysteamer comment, drain and one shot it... then rebuild later, when laying on your back in the sunshine doesnt make you ache....

Click to expand...

@tilly2 Thanks it might be the best option then, I agree on doing jobs in the summer it's alot better idea. I once did a fuel tank while led in Diesel and water in December never again! Family member split tank on a rock on the farm.

Thanks,

Ben

tilly2 said:

You can do one side.... it doesnt matter.

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@tilly2 Thank you for confirming, that might make it a weekend job then if needed. Just hope all the bolts come out as they should

Thanks,

Ben

bendisco said:

@tilly2 Thanks it might be the best option then, I agree on doing jobs in the summer it's alot better idea. I once did a fuel tank while led in Diesel and water in December never again! Family member split tank on a rock on the farm.

Thanks,

Ben

Click to expand...

While under there check the oil level in the diff. It might be possible that the inner seal has failed a bit and diff oil might be getting out via the end of the shaft/knuckle. Don't seriously think this a massive problem but I'd hate you to run low.

bendisco said:

@Stanleysteamer Thanks for the advice, I was going to try the one shot but thought i would ask other's before I did. This is my First Disco and wasn't sure what damage could occur if it ran dry mid drive.

Mine might be similar to yours its a D1 300tdi 97 Auto ES Jap Import, I only see a fill plug on the housing. The fill plugs i've coated in plus gas as I read there a pain.

I have mesaged a mate to see if he would do them for me but he's rammed with work.

Can I do the one side or is it like brakes in that both must be done?

Funny how this D1 was made in Brum went to Japan and then to Spain and end's back not far from where it was made.

Ben

Click to expand...

Keep on spraying it with freeeing off liquid, wire brush, taps with a a hammer etc until you are ready to take the plug out.

Stanleysteamer said:

While under there check the oil level in the diff. It might be possible that the inner seal has failed a bit and diff oil might be getting out via the end of the shaft/knuckle. Don't seriously think this a massive problem but I'd hate you to run low.

Click to expand...

@Stanleysteamer Thanks for the advice, I was debating checking it earlier when i was cleaning the diff casing. It was coated in crusty oil from the last person.

Thanks,

Ben

bendisco said:

@Stanleysteamer Thanks for the advice, I was debating checking it earlier when i was cleaning the diff casing. It was coated in crusty oil from the last person.

Thanks,

Ben

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And don't forget to check that the breather isn't blocked as that can cause pressure to build up which can also cause leaks at axle ends.
You're wel;come!

if there is no drain plug, which I doubt there is, you'll have to free off the top swivel so that the bottom swivel comes a bit loose, if it is oil in there it should then run out the bottom swivel area. It's messy but that is how it is.
Once drained tighten it all back up as it was then put the one shot grease in.
Setting preload on the bearings is another issue but you do not need to worry about this at the moment. Doing this is how I found out about how to get the oil out as it came out accidentally as I was doing this adjustment.
Discos are a learning curve!

Stanleysteamer said:

Keep on spraying it with freeeing off liquid, wire brush, taps with a a hammer etc until you are ready to take the plug out.

Click to expand...

@Stanleysteamer what brand do you used for Freeze off? I've never had much joy with some of the brands unless I use map gas and spray it on but always been reluctant incase of fire.

Plus Gas works well but in a real pinch ATF and Acetone that works a trick on really bad bolts.

I did find a little tip, plumbers tape on the thread. It's supposed to help when you need to remove them next time.

Ben

Stanleysteamer said:

if there is no drain plug, which I doubt there is, you'll have to free off the top swivel so that the bottom swivel comes a bit loose, if it is oil in there it should then run out the bottom swivel area. It's messy but that is how it is.
Once drained tighten it all back up as it was then put the one shot grease in.
Setting preload on the bearings is another issue but you do not need to worry about this at the moment. Doing this is how I found out about how to get the oil out as it came out accidentally as I was doing this adjustment.
Discos are a learning curve!

Click to expand...

@Stanleysteamer Thanks that's good info to know, I'll get the oil pan ready for this job. With these cars's it like running repairs.

Ben

Mike has some good videos, mostly on Defenders though. I used the solder method, and a spring balance to set up the preload. Worked a treat, but dont worry about that at the moment...

tilly2 said:

Mike has some good videos, mostly on Defenders though. I used the solder method, and a spring balance to set up the preload. Worked a treat, but dont worry about that at the moment...

Click to expand...

I really like his way of working, how he explains things and the tips and short cuts.
Do you know where he's based

Remember that doing a job like this tends to go into mission creep. If you are doing the swivel seals then you will still need to remove the brake caliper unless you use the method of cutting the seal at the top.

If you are removing the caliper then additional items may be required additional to what you expect, such as the small brake line and flex plus all the lock nuts, caliper bolts etc. I am a big believer in replacing nuts/screws/bolts if doing a job unless they look to be in great condition - I do this thinking forward to the next time I may have to remove them.

Also, looking at the last couple of years, we may have good weather in March or April so start with the penetrating fluid for all the things you will have to remove.

If you are replacing the swivel itself then look at videos on that to prepare yourself. I found aviation spanners (I think 14mm) great for removing the swivel from the axle case - plus the set has been useful in many applications.

bendisco said:

@Stanleysteamer what brand do you used for Freeze off? I've never had much joy with some of the brands unless I use map gas and spray it on but always been reluctant incase of fire.

Plus Gas works well but in a real pinch ATF and Acetone that works a trick on really bad bolts.

I did find a little tip, plumbers tape on the thread. It's supposed to help when you need to remove them next time.

Ben

Click to expand...

I use either WD40 or ATF and acetone, don't seem to be able to find plusgas round ere. And I put copaslip on so I can undo them again.

bendisco said:

@Stanleysteamer Thanks for the advice, I was going to try the one shot but thought i would ask other's before I did. This is my First Disco and wasn't sure what damage could occur if it ran dry mid drive.

Mine might be similar to yours its a D1 300tdi 97 Auto ES Jap Import, I only see a fill plug on the housing. The fill plugs i've coated in plus gas as I read there a pain.

I have mesaged a mate to see if he would do them for me but he's rammed with work.

Can I do the one side or is it like brakes in that both must be done?

Funny how this D1 was made in Brum went to Japan and then to Spain and end's back not far from where it was made.

Ben

Click to expand...

Just look a the swivel ball, if Chrome its oil plus a fill, drain and if your lucky a lever plug. If Teflon its grease with just a fill plug…simples… but it appears that its not well known.

discool said:

Just look a the swivel ball, if Chrome its oil with a fill, drain and if your lucky a lever plug. If Teflon its grease with just a fill plug…simples… but it appears that its not well known.

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That is not the case with mine. mine are chrome balls and there is no drain or level plug. Maybe this is because mine is an Anniversary model and maybe they were just emptying parts bins.
There is also info that they started off with oil then decided to change over to one time grease, so LR themselves changed horses midstream.
I do indeed wish mine had all three plugs but as posted above no drain plug and no level plug. Although it deffo has oil in.
Tell me, would it be possible to change my chrome balls for Teflon ones as both need changing?