110v ?
Pre Heater / Block heaters
- Thread starter palace
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110v ?
jamesmartin
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they do both ,240 as well **** stirrer
you've got some neck to call me that
jamesmartin
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you appear to haunt people
nah, only those who talk nonsense, or the ignorant or the miss-informed
jamesmartin
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in your opinion that is
Fur Trapper
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who else ?
IanFiTheDwarf
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The calculation for forced air heat transfer is quite long but I have had a go at working back the way to get the heat dissipation of the main radiator for comparison.
if a 300 TDi engine has 111 bhp that is about 80kw
the radiator has to be able to displace all the heat generated by the engine under full load and at higher revs where efficiency will be lower so if we say at worst it will be only 20% efficient so will be producing four times as much heat as usable power
So 80kw x 4 = 320kw
About one third of this heat will be taken out in the exhaust gasses so that leaves about 200kw for the radiator to dissipate. If you allow an additional 50% capacity as a safety margin and to cope with hot climates then the radiator can dissipate 300kw or about 1024,000btu
So the radiator can dissipate about 17 times that of a heater matrix rated at 60,000btu so should be about 14 times the size
To my reckoning that cant be all that far off
Or am I talking out of my arse again?
if a 300 TDi engine has 111 bhp that is about 80kw
the radiator has to be able to displace all the heat generated by the engine under full load and at higher revs where efficiency will be lower so if we say at worst it will be only 20% efficient so will be producing four times as much heat as usable power
So 80kw x 4 = 320kw
About one third of this heat will be taken out in the exhaust gasses so that leaves about 200kw for the radiator to dissipate. If you allow an additional 50% capacity as a safety margin and to cope with hot climates then the radiator can dissipate 300kw or about 1024,000btu
So the radiator can dissipate about 17 times that of a heater matrix rated at 60,000btu so should be about 14 times the size
To my reckoning that cant be all that far off
Or am I talking out of my arse again?
IanFiTheDwarf
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I have never had a core plug out of my landy but I lost one on my transit a while ago and from what I can remember there wasnt much depth to be able to fit a heater. The landy might have loads of room but its worth checking first.
I dont think a core plug heater at 600w will soot me for what I want to do. I dont think it will get the engine or water up to anywhere near operating temperature so wont be any use for preheating the car and shortening defrosting times in the worst of the cold mornings. It will certainly help cold starts if that is what you want it for but I want more POWER! Nothing new there
Fur Trapper
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if it works at -40 below F then what TF??What do you want 180degreeF when you get in ? It wont happen
yes, maybe one day when I can be bothered I'll illustrate the error
until then, ignorance shall be bliss I trust
just one point, if (as you say) the available heat is well in excess of a fairly typical domestic combi boiler, why isn't this forum filled with threads moaning that their disco/depender heater is too effective ?
IanFiTheDwarf
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I think it could go either along side the air box or possibly between the break servo and expansions tank. Failing that there is always the second battery tray if it is not occupied (mine is free). I would like to keep the pipe runs as short as I can and keep it out of direct air flow when the car is moving. It I have to fit it behind the bumper I will insulate it with a layer of camping mat.
IanFiTheDwarf
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You shouldn't need a bypass hose, no need to heat the water in the radiator, its just a waste of electricity. The block heater thermostat should be set below the car thermostat so it doesn't open when pre heating and once the engine is running it will still take a few minutes to get up to full temp.
I'm not sure where to break in to the heater hose as the car is in my workshop so I can't have a look right now.
