Power rating of P38 Boot Auxilliary socket

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Jamiehol

Active Member
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244
So following on from my post about an issue with my towbar wiring I am in the middle of fitting a twoing bypass relay for the 12N socket.

It needs a 15amp 12V supply, now I need the towbar for a holiday on Thursday, as a short term measure I was considering using the supply to the boot mounted socket. Does anyone know what the fuse rating of the Auxillary 12v socket in the boot ?
 
The wiring for the 12s socket is on the opposite side of the boot to the 12n wiring so if I was to use that I would just run a wire to the supply side of the BECM or the battery.

Irish thanks for the suggestion I was just after a quick solution so I don't have to take lots of trim off to get a wire from the back of teh car to the front, the other problem being its not easy round here to pick up a long length of automotive wire to allow me to connect upto the BECM or battery.
 
The spare plug on the l.h. side of the car located behind the trim panel for the 12S socket is not rated for 15amps+.
I'm afraid that if you want such a supply to the back of the car, you have no other option than to run a separate fused feed from the Becm positive feed terminal post (Thick Brown lead with black plastic "Hood" over it) or the battery.
As we all know, P38 electrics are tempremental at the best of times...best to be safe rather than sorry later.
You can use 2.5mm.sq. single flexible cable from any electrical supplier, they call it "Tri-rated, I think the code is 6491X
 
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For the permanant supply I ran a fused 4mm cable with a kopex oversheath along the top of the offside chassis member from the battery to the boot, cable tied and hot glued in place. Dead easy to do. You can get 4mm flexible cable from Maplin, or CPC, kopex from electrical wholesaler or some car/caravan suplliers.
 
To be clear I have already wired in both the permant and switched live supplies to my 12s sockect via two runs of 2.5mm wire driect from the battery, and long term I will do the same for the road lighting relay.

I was just looking for a short term solution for the bypass realy, as none of the shops I can get to after work sell a long enough length of cable suitable for supplying the bypass relay.

So just to keep everyone happy I have boutgh two lentghs and joined them with a soldered and heat shrunk joint and run the cable direct from the battery via a 15amp fuse. Will purchase a single length of cable when I get back from holiday as I don't like have the piece joined at the minute.
 
Road lighting relay? None needed on the P38???

Oh yes there is when there are four brake lighst fitted to the Caravan and it upsets the BECM making it think the brake lights have failed. Two options fitted LED bulbs or a bypass relay.

I went the bypass relay route as I coudln't find any E approved LED bulbs in my timescales.
 
Oh yes there is when there are four brake lighst fitted to the Caravan and it upsets the BECM making it think the brake lights have failed. Two options fitted LED bulbs or a bypass relay.

I went the bypass relay route as I coudln't find any E approved LED bulbs in my timescales.

There is something odd about all that, my caravan has the 2 normal brake lights plus a high level one with about 5 bulbs in it, all works fine.:confused:
 
Well guess it depends on the rtaing of those bulbs, in my case all the brake lights are 21w so the current draw has doubled.

Looking on a few caravan forusm and magazines recently a few people have reported similar issues with bulb warning systems and multiple brake lights on their caravans.
 
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