Potential 110 project

new gas boiler that does hot water and cooker. it was an identical model to previous one just newer. We are LPG bottles here being rural.

he is well pleased with his addition to his landy said it drives loads better when road cruising

Cavey_P38 said:

I was quicker than he was too, did make him bacon butties

He had a busy day yesterday, fitted this to his 2000 td5 90

View attachment 233251

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How easy was this to fit?
Is it lever to engage it instead of a solinoid?
What transfer box is on it at the moment?
(I have used the GKN overdrive before but not this make)

my mate did alright as the instructions blew out of the back of the 90 and landed in the marina...lol he had read them the night before luckily as they are not available to download...lol

It is a lever to select, was the original transfer box i believe think it is t reg late 99 or early 2000 model TD5

said it went in all right took him longer to get the tunnel out than fit it.

he said you take the plate off and then knock a bearing off a shaft and fit that on the overdrive

bolted up ok and the lever sits nicely next to the low / difflock height wise in between the two levers iirc when i stuck my head in and looked.

so today i fitted this.



and these



and replaced the pallet in the back for a plywood board to put dogs or dog crate on..

did all this while waiting for the delivery of this



Bloody Parcel force, collected it from Diesel Bob thursday, got a SMS to say out for delivery 0920 -10.20 am.. it arrived at 16.00

too late to go to farm workshop and fit it. Tomorrow hopefully and see if the 90 gets back on the road.

Then see if i can work out how to wire the roof light

would like it via 3 way switch if possible

OFF - With Main beam - ON

is this doable via a carling switch or a landrover one in the right knee panel.?

Busy day tomorrow...

Cavey_P38 said:

so today i fitted this.

View attachment 233338

and these

View attachment 233339

and replaced the pallet in the back for a plywood board to put dogs or dog crate on..

did all this while waiting for the delivery of this

View attachment 233340

Bloody Parcel force, collected it from Diesel Bob thursday, got a SMS to say out for delivery 0920 -10.20 am.. it arrived at 16.00

too late to go to farm workshop and fit it. Tomorrow hopefully and see if the 90 gets back on the road.

Then see if i can work out how to wire the roof light

would like it via 3 way switch if possible

OFF - With Main beam - ON

is this doable via a carling switch or a landrover one in the right knee panel.?

Busy day tomorrow...

Click to expand...

Power it via a relay and have the relay triggered by either a signal from a switch (like in the knee panel) or from a signal from the stalk in main beam position.

cheers @Al203 is there room to mount one behind the fuse panel, and i am ok with the spanners and simple sparks but never wired a relay in the mix, have loads off a P38 i stripped and sold will one of them do do you think ?

Guess power and earth to relay then one wore to switch one to main beam ? or am i being daft..

Cavey_P38 said:

cheers @Al203 is there room to mount one behind the fuse panel, and i am ok with the spanners and simple sparks but never wired a relay in the mix, have loads off a P38 i stripped and sold will one of them do do you think ?

Guess power and earth to relay then one wore to switch one to main beam ? or am i being daft..

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I know that sounded like I know what I'm talking about, but I've only learned a bit during and since I rebuilt my Landy.
You'll have to check what the current rating of the LED light bar is and make sure the relay you choose can handle the current. I can't imagine you'll have any bother finding a relay to handle what's needed. You'll need a suitable live feed (based on the current rating of the light) to the load side of the relay and then to your light bar which will then be earthed. On the coil side you'll need a feed from the main beam position on the stalk and from a switch, if you want to be able to put them on independently. The coil side will need an earth too. Plenty knowledgeable auto sparks on here, so I'm sure someone will give you a better idea.

thanks @Al203

will poke about and see what i have and can find in parts

hopefully someone will pop up and confirm your knowledge, sounds like you have got it weighed off...

Far better than me i would sooner take an engine out than mess about with some relays..

Cavey_P38 said:

thanks @Al203

will poke about and see what i have and can find in parts

hopefully someone will pop up and confirm your knowledge, sounds like you have got it weighed off...

Far better than me i would sooner take an engine out than mess about with some relays..

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Me too TBH

Al2O3 said:

Me too TBH

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I've been thinking what will happen if you have your light bar on from the switch and then you put your main beam on? The switch and main beam feeds will be connected. This might be ok, but not sure. You might need a diode in both if those feeds. @Disco1BFG might know?

Al2O3 said:

I've been thinking what will happen if you have your light bar on from the switch and then you put your main beam on? The switch and main beam feeds will be connected. This might be ok, but not sure. You might need a diode in both if those feeds. @Disco1BFG might know?

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Yes it would need a diode. If the main beam and switched live (from the calling switch) are both onto the relay trigger, then switching the calling switch on will also light up the main beam. The best way to wire them in, using two triggers, is with a changeover (or 5 pin) relay.

mick 1986 said:

Yes it would need a diode. If the main beam and switched live (from the calling switch) are both onto the relay trigger, then switching the calling switch on will also light up the main beam. The best way to wire them in, using two triggers, is with a changeover (or 5 pin) relay.

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I was thinking if the main beam switch on the stalk was off, then he could put the light bar on with the independent switch and it wouldn't affect the main beam with that switch being open. I thought the problems would come with both switches on. It's certainly not as simple as I first thought.

Al2O3 said:

I was thinking if the main beam switch on the stalk was off, then he could put the light bar on with the independent switch and it wouldn't affect the main beam with that switch being open. I thought the problems would come with both switches on. It's certainly not as simple as I first thought.

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Having both switches on shouldn’t do anything, it’s just getting power from 2 sources so won’t turn off with one of the sources being turned off. The feed from the main beam would need to be taken from after the switch, or it would be on permanently. In that case, it would light up the main beam as it’s powering the same wires as the main beam uses, just bypassing the main beam switch.

Using a changeover relay makes it a very simple install. 2 switched lives in, one permanent live in, one switched live out, and two earths.

Cheers
@al203 and @mick 1986 many thanks, sparks is not my field..

best find me a 5 pin relay.

Trying to find the voltage draw on the lightbar, which is not easy..

No paperwork in the box, no obvious marking on the lightbar

32" LED lightbar any ideas.. ?

Cavey_P38 said:

Cheers
@al203 and @mick 1986 many thanks, sparks is not my field..

best find me a 5 pin relay.

Trying to find the voltage draw on the lightbar, which is not easy..

No paperwork in the box, no obvious marking on the lightbar

32" LED lightbar any ideas.. ?

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I have a clamp on current meter for stuff like this. Connect the light bar straight to a battery, clamp on the meter and measure. It will give you the info for the wiring, switches, and fuses. Just checked your location, your a bit to far for me to travel.

I think @Nodge68 has a bit of a history with light bars and LEDs in general. Maybe a bit more experienced to advise, but I would guess at around 10-12A draw for it, but I must stress that’s a guess only and shouldn’t be used to design the wiring system.

Edit: just googled 32” led light bar. Claims from 126W up to 300W are out there. I would see if someone local has a clamp meter, and test what that actual light draws.

Also, if you need more help with the wiring when it comes to it, give me a shout.

Cavey_P38 said:

Trying to find the voltage draw on the lightbar, which is not easy..

No paperwork in the box, no obvious marking on the lightbar

32" LED lightbar any ideas.. ?

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You mean current draw?
Easy to work out. Count the number of individual LEDs in the bar. Each LED emitter will be about 3 Watts. Multiply the number of LED emitters by 3, then divide the total by 12. This will give you the approximate maximum current draw in Amps of the bar.
They use boost converters, so the higher the voltage input, the lower the current will be.

Nodge68 said:

You mean current draw?
Easy to work out. Count the number of individual LEDs in the bar. Each LED emitter will be about 3 Watts. Multiply the number of LED emitters by 3, then divide the total by 12. This will give you the approximate maximum current draw in Amps of the bar.
They use boost converters, so the higher the voltage input, the lower the current will be.

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I wasn’t sure enough to advise on the emitters. I knew most claimed 3W each, but what they claim, and what they are, can be vastly different.

@Nodge68 what draw do you think the two COBs will be? You can see the photo of the light bar on post #164.

mick 1986 said:

@Nodge68 what draw do you think the two COBs will be? You can see the photo of the light bar on post #164.

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Most COB arrays consume about 20 Watts each, so a total of 40 Watts for those.

mick 1986 said:

I wasn’t sure enough to advise on the emitters. I knew most claimed 3W each, but what they claim, and what they are, can be vastly different.

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That's actually true, but also a good thing. LED emitters used in Chinese light bars are rated at 3 Watts each, but in reality they are often only driven at 2 Watts, which while reducing light output, it minimises heat and lengthens the emitter life.