Possible clutch problem - need your advice pls

Hello all,

Land Rover 90 from 1986 with a 200Tdi engine.

On pulling a heavyish trailer up an incline (two jetskis on trailer partly submerged pulling up the launch ramp) from stop I struggle and it's stalled on me a couple of times - seems to be a real lack of power getting to the wheels

Would this be a possible clutch problem or is it more engine. She smokes a bit on start up but nothing major and a bit smelly with the back flap of the soft top open on runs but no major oil loss. Acceleration once on the move seems fine - maybe a bit down on what it was 10 years ago but will get to 70mph and cruise there no probs.

I did have a "dodgy" clutch noise this last winter so bought a new clutch with HD relase arm etc. but the noise went away so have still the clutch kit available to fit but wanted your advice/opinions before I embark on a clutch change

Is there anything else I could check/test all advice greatly received.

Just done a shed load more research and:

a) doubt it's the clutch as no high gear slipping
b) possible "lift pump"
c) even more confused than before ????????????????

do the revs die when it looses power if so not clutch ,id check fuel system pipes lift pump ,stack pipe in tank etc

Yes revs drop off and it struggles to pull.

How do I check the lift pump, stack pipe (what is a stack pipe), etc. - I'm pretty mechanically minded but have very little experience on diesels and even less on the 200tdi - thanks for your help.

I have a fluctuating tank gauge/level indicator but am told this is an electrical issue so shouldn't affect anything else.

pipes in tank under drivers seat ,lift pump disconnect outlet and check it pumps clean fuel out a clear plastic pipe between filter and pump will let you see if air is entering

jamesmartin said:

pipes in tank under drivers seat

Click to expand...

Can I access this in situ or do I need to drop the tank - I put a new tank in about 4 years ago but kept original pipes and bits and recall it was a pain the **** to get in and out

jamesmartin said:

,lift pump disconnect outlet and check it pumps clean fuel out a clear plastic pipe between filter and pump will let you see if air is entering

Click to expand...

OK will do - is this checked by manual pumping or turning the engine over by the ignition switch? Why would this affect low speed power and not throughout the range?

Thanks again for your help

lift the seat and slide lid off

jamesmartin said:

lift the seat and slide lid off

Click to expand...

Great stuff - I've got bolted in high back buckets and it's been over 11 years since I fitted them and didn't remember that there's an access panel under there. Thanks.

For the lift pump - would a problem here only affect low speed power and not throughout the range, or is it just less noticeable at higher speeds?

Update:

1: no pressure on the lift pump manual handle.
2. Naff all diesel in the filter
3. Engine on tickover very slow to bleed the diesel filter.
4. Cut off the gauze filter from the bottom of the tank feed pipe (following advice from a LR mechanic) but this was not blocked.
5. Ordered a new Lift Pump
6. Waiting impatiently for posty to deliver.

if you have a knakerd lift pump the engine will vertuly do nothing,or it will pick up revs then die again ,had this probolem with a 150 defender 300tdi would not rev one minute then would the next changed filter and cleared all of the pipes out and made no difference ,was da lift pump!

I asked a LR mechanic why the symptoms are only evident on slow speed manoeuvres - he said that once the car is rolling and at speed (revs rather than high road speed) it can draw/suck the diesel through and relies less on the lift pump.

Sounds feasible - either way once I've fitted the new one I'll know if the problem is solved or not

Removed the old lift pump yesterday and outside of the block it seems to have pressure. Put the new pump on and no pressure turned the engine over by hand (socket on the pulley bolt) with my GF trying the pump and at no stage during the 3+ full revolutions did we feel any pressure change. I know that the actuator arm for the lift pump needs to be "released/position down" in order for the manual handle to work, which leads me on to another question.........timing belts.

I've had the 90 for over 12 years now and never changed the timing belt - never even thought about it. To be fair I've done less than 6000 miles in the last 12 years as she was a 3rd car for going round the farm etc. But now with this lift pump/lack of low end power issue I'm wondering whether the timing belt is not turning the camshaft which in turn is not "releasing" the actuator arm???? Everything else works fine with no other loss of power.

Either way I think it a good idea to change the timing belt as Haynes says every 5 years I guess due to the rubber perishing. Is this "kit" any good/the right one >>>

Land Rover Defender 200 Tdi Timing Belt Kit with Tensioner, Gasket and Seal | eBay

Any thoughts (other than .... "for gods sake don't drive it"...lol) ????

Bit of an update for anyone that's interested (not many apparently, lol).

- Timing belt changed (new belt and pulley) - oh what fun that was.
- Whole engine de-gunked - didn't know it was silver in parts.
- New Turbo hoses (the old ones were softer than a sponge)
- New lift pump (didn't really see any difference between new and old out of the car but not expensive and worth ruling out).
- New earth strap (separate issue with a new Starter Motor)
- New battery positive connector (separate issue with a new Starter Motor)
- Cut the filter gauze off the the bottom of the stack pipe
- Bottles worth of Totale diesel injector cleaners in the tank

End result - pulls like a raging bull on heat .... haven't tested it dragging the twin jet trailer out of the water (too cold now to go playing on jetskis now) but if you put your foot down in any gear it pulls smoothly until the turbo cuts in then is really impressive.

So fingers crossed that the problem has been solved by one/several/all of the above changes - none were expensive, some were a pain in the **** (getting the crank shaft bolt out was so much fun) but most fairly simple.

The belt change wasn't helped by the fact that the Haynes manual is incorrect and listed my engine as a 19J (based upon the image of the timing belt cover and gasket) when in reality it is a 200Tdi Defender.

The bottle Totale jobbie has definitely stopped her smoking and if a blocked injector was the cause has cleared and cleaned them - worth the 12€