Plucking up the courage... Head gasket and cambelt

... And make sure that the steel washer is the right way up!!

Oldseadog said:

... And make sure that the steel washer is the right way up!!

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And that there aren't any old washers down the hole first

Already removed an old washer!

By the way, the supplying company was sold last week to a new owner. I spoke with him yesterday and he said he would arrange for a courier to pick it up today to be dealt with.
1725 and still no sign of a courier. I tried calling but no answer. I'll try again tomorrow!

I found them via the google ads that pop up when you search on the forum here.

Turner all the way I got all the bits for my engine rebuild from them.

Turner is only 25 minutes up the road from me but they could only supply a new head at £600 ish. I little too pricey for me - or so I thought. I may need to take my head to them to sort out if the the Cornish fellas don't play ball. Still hopeful. Caveat emptor!

2ndyouth said:

Turner is only 25 minutes up the road from me but they could only supply a new head at £600 ish. I little too pricey for me - or so I thought. I may need to take my head to them to sort out if the the Cornish fellas don't play ball. Still hopeful. Caveat emptor!

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Why don't you pm james? He might do it, or advise!

Courier will pick up the head tomorrow.

While I'm thinking about it, I'll have to reset the valve clearances again when it comes back. What size is the big nut on the end of the crankshaft? I was using a big pair of grips and tHe flesh from my knuckles. I'd like to use the proper tool next time.

Also, having torqued the head down onto the head gasket and then removed it, will I need to use a new head gasket next time I fit the head?

new gasket and 41mm is common size

Head was promised for today (well, yesterday). Maybe I'll get it today (Thursday). "We'll turn it around in a couple of days" - that was six weeks ago!

My work standby starts tomorrow at lunch time, after that, it depends if they call me or not as to whether I'll have the time to get it on. What else should I be doing to a very rough Landy that's been off the road for two months before I let newly qualified number one son drive it?

Anyone know the size of the rear heater hole plug that sits on top of the cylinder head at the rear between the bolts and near the temp sender? When the head company returned the head, this was missing!

2ndyouth said:

Anyone know the size of the rear heater hole plug that sits on top of the cylinder head at the rear between the bolts and near the temp sender? When the head company returned the head, this was missing!

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I think you mean ERC9448 if it's to plug the hole. I bought mine from Famous Four last year.

Ordered from paddocks.

Head back on and got all excited but the damn thing wouldn't start. Not even one cylinder. I'm obviously missing something. I know that fuel is getting to the injectors because I've seen it squirting out. There was enough compression with the old head for it to run so the reconditioned one should be at least as good, I've torqued down the injectors with their two washers each. The glow plugs are new and the wiring is so simple, even I can do it. What am I missing? The land rover gods of buggeration are teasing me.

I thought I would put the radiator flush fluid into the radiator in anticipation of my "obvious error" being resolved. Once the level reached the water pump, it all started flowing out of the hole on the under side of the pump. Seal must have failed. Take it off and have a look.

Radiator fan shrouding removed, fan removed and finally the water pump. Suspicious amount of silicon sealant involved, then I see why, the threaded recess in the front casing that takes one of the water pump bolts is broken. The silicon was clearly intended to help it seal.

It's one step forwards followed by a hundred metre sprint backwards with this bloody thing and beginning to doubt I'll ever get it running.

Is there anyone out there can give me cause for hope?

Yeah stick with it, a water pump isn't that big a deal to sort and think how chuffed you will be when you get it going

Is your fuel pump timing correct? And did you reconnect all the wires , I am thinking fuel cut off switch

Sheared bolt not a great prob, sheared one of mine getting the pump off, couldnt get it extracted so drill it and tapped it and fitted different size, been fine since.

So the non start, pump timing, compression or fuel.
Fuel squirting from injectors? Flats comment on the solenoid is a valid one.
Compression ok? and time marks all aligned?
When I did mine it wouldnt start and was the lift pump, as while it was all apart it drained and the valves were hardened so wouldnt lift to prime.
I frigged them by adding vasleline to help them seal then it all primes fine and fired up.
Since though I have replaced the lift pump

Thanks gents, I'll check the cut off and lift pump but I'm pretty sure fuel is getting as I had some leakage on turning over the engine before I tightened up properly.

It's not a broken stud, the part of the front plate that one of the bolts screws into has broken so there's nothing for that bolt to screw into. I'm doubtful of getting a good seal on the water pump with one of the bolts playing no role.

If it sealed before, it can be made to seal again. The "mechanics" who changed my injection pump sheared two of the water pump bolts off, and it still seals fine.
If you haven't done anything to affect the timing, then it looks like it must be fuel delivery. Stay positive - I know how frustrating this can be.

New water pump, gasket, hylomar blue sealant and fan belt ordered from Paddocks with premium super ultra delivery to (hopefully) arrive tomorrow.

I know there's fuel reaching the injectors as it squirts out of the fuel lines where they reach the injectors when not done up tight. Of course, I don't know if there's fuel coming out of the injectors but, they were working prior to fitting the new head.

How can I work out if I'm getting compression? All I know is that I've put in the required washers and tightened everything accordingly.

Can you turn it over by hand, and if so do you get to the point where you can hardly turn any more due to the compression?

If you have a compression tester take out all of your glow plugs (and check them whilst they're out,) disconnect the fuel pump solemoid and check the compression from the plug holes.

That saves you having to strip the injectors out and remove the pipes etc.

I'm just a lazy git, and can't see any point in doing more than I have to!