Picking up our first Freelander tomorrow - what to look out for?

Hey guys!

Totally brand spanking new here!

I'll be the first to admit that I know absolutely nothing about Freelanders, or even Land Rover in general! However last week, we spotted a lovely 02 Freelander 2.0L Diesel, and well we've paid down a deposit and we're due to pick it up hopefully tomorrow!

We've bought from a Landrover dealer so we'll be getting a 6 month warranty with it.

Now, I have to admit, we kinda bought it in haste.. it was a bit of an impulse purchase, and later on that evening when I got home and did some digging on Freelanders in general I was shocked to find so many terrible reviews and reports of problems which made us rather wary..

However, seeing as it's the Diesel we've bought we reckon we'll go ahead as hopefully it shouldn't be as troublesome with regards to Head gaskets blowing etc.. like in the Petrol models.

We have a Rover 75 already and we were told that it has the same BMW engine as the Freelander, and we're happy with that as we love the 75!

Now, as I said, I'm a complete green horn when it comes to Freelanders so I was hoping you experts and enthusiastics on here wouldn't mind perhaps giving me some tips on any problems / faults etc.. I'll need to watch out for.

There was some work to be done on it before we collect tomorrow (Air con and the Drivers window not working) hopefully these will have been sorted, however is there anything we should ask the Garage to check/sort out before we pick it up?

I believe it has a Timing Chain as opposed to a belt and this doesn't need to be changed, and it had the clutch changed at about 60k miles I think (Is 90k now)

I've seen some talk of people having to check IRD and Rear Diff (I have no idea what these are!) and also tracking.. anything else I should be aware of?

Any advice/suggestions/tips/anything at all gratefully appreciated!

*Prepares brain in sponge-like manner to soak up all new found knowledge contained within*

The doozles are all good yours is the TD4 most of the problems have been sorted on this Forum ,so go into search or common questions bit , the floppy flip man did a good right up thats well worth a good read, its called Freelanders-everything you need to know. . . . .un any questions just ask in here. . . . . . . . be warned this is unlike any other Forum on the tinternet

ming said:

. . . . . . . . be warned this is unlike any other Forum on the tinternet

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Hes not wrong, hope you have a thick skin. Welcome by the way.:welcome2:

I was the same as you, bought a TD4 commercial version on a 04 plate 6 months ago and THEN started to read up about it.............After reading this and other forums I just held my hands to my head thinking what have I done!!!

I will say though, before finalising any payment to have a drive for at least 20 miles to get the engine warm. Any problems with MAF and EGR will show up more then. Some people experience a hesitation when pulling away from a junction, so much so it can be scary. Imagine pulling to a roundabout, dropping to second then pulling away but nothing for 2 or 3 seconds. If that happens, then its not major, just identify it to the dealer to sort the MAF or EGR valve. Could be other things but thats seems to be the most popular.

Also, check EVERYTHING that is electrical. Windows, incl Rear, sunroof, mirrors, switch on HDC (by the gear stick) and check the green light flashes on the dash. HDC will only work in 1st and reverse and when on a slope, so wont do anything other than flash until its actually working. Check all the pipes in the engine bay, some have been known to split. Im told the thick one front left rubs on a screw head underneath and splits.

Mine, so far has been fantastic. I had the dealer change the MAF, which will probably need changing every 40 or 50K, had the EGR pipe blanked off and removed the actual EGR valve and replaced with a blank. Mine wasnt quite driving right as both the MAF was dud and the EGR was blocked full of gunk. I could of just cleaned it and put it back, but seems that the EGR valve lets oily air through the system and can block the turbo, so mine is blanked.

When your driving along just notice how many other freelanders you see. Have a look at how many of these are the older MK1's, there are still thousands on the road. So, its no wonder that people will moan on forums about issues and problems. Not many people post positive points, although I did a mini review of mine after a few months.

Regarding the IRD and VCU, they did change the ratios of them at some point, not sure when. Its worth finding out when this was and if yours has the new ratio's. If not, you will need to learn how to monitor the VCU as when that seizes it then damages the IRD. If you catch the VCU in time then the IRD will be fine.

As any motor, get it serviced regularily, LR dealer will be about double that of an indy 4x4 specialist but under the current economic climate they may be willing to negotiate on price. I was offered a 36k service at a LR dealer for £250 (instead of around £400) but declined.

On a negative note, after I had it serviced I was told that the fron prop bearing is almost away and the front pads need changing. Though, for a almost 5 year old motor I dont think thats bad.

The bearings are to be changed in a pair, LR would want £60 each for the parts alone, whereas OEM will be around £20 each. Albeit a simple job, im getting a mechanic to do that next week, as well as the pads.

Welcome to the mad house

Steve

just fookin hammer it and when it breaks buy a disco.

Beast o Bodmin said:

just fookin hammer it and when it breaks buy a disco.

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did you take lessens? or were you just born a cock?

Hi Morby, welcome to the site, me being a newbie i thought i would tell you what to look out for as this is what i missed and has cost me £1500 pounds so far since buying 4 weeks ago, but dont let that put you off, if you get a good one you should have trouble free motoring, when in the car turn on the engine place in first gear and pull away in 1st and place steering on full lock and drive about 5mph, if it feels as if the hand brake is on possible transfer box issues, big job £800- £1100 depending where you take it, drive round a roundabout 25-30 mph listen for knocking noise, possible rear diff trouble/uc, check water level, keep an eye as mine uses a pint a day, and we cant find the problem yet, but its not head gasket, also just had to spend £948 on a new turbo, but as its done 115000 miles i suppose thats to be expected, anyway happy motoring tommorrow hope ive not frightened you too much apart from that i love my freelander td4 at the mo, good luck Jason.

crisp said:

when in the car turn on the engine place in first gear and pull away in 1st and place steering on full lock and drive about 5mph, if it feels as if the hand brake is on possible transfer box issues, big job £800- £1100 depending where you take it,

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That is quite normal Jason and not a definative sign of VCU/IRD problems. Its always stiff to turn on full lock, just the way the 4wd system is. If though, its excessivly stiff then thats a sign of problems.

A test would be the tipex test. Mark tippex on the front and rear props (in line with each other).......... take it for a 10 minute drive, roundabouts, full lock etc and then see if the 2 marks are still in line. If so, VCU is fooked.

Steve

Beast o Bodmin said:

just fookin hammer it and when it breaks buy a disco.

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