Petrol pump

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
peter8315

peter8315

Active Member
Posts
724
Location
Ilkeston, derbyshire
Anybody had problems with Brit part petrol pump, the pump will not pump fuel whilst on the engine, but the manual lever does pump,,have checked the lift cam in the engine and it has about 1/8th of an inch lift, is that normal or does the lift cam wear, hope you can help
 
^^^What he said the spacer is important to get newer replacement pumps to get the arm to engage with the cam correctly.
 
I had problems with a replacment diesel pump (not BP) - the mounting flange was a lot thinner. It worked but leak oil because the bolts didn't pull up on the thinner flange. Put old and new pumps side by side and found a lot more differnces than I expected.
 
Its the same shape as the pump body where it fits onto the engine. It should be about 1/4 inch thick if its the one I'm talking about.
It should have been in the box with the pump.
 
Found it, looked at my other series 3 and that hadn’t got the spacer on so took so took the spacer off as measuring the lever on the pump wasn’t,t reaching the cam, so now working fine. I don’t know why some have spacers on must be a different pump with longer lever,anyway thanks all and hope this helps somebody else
 
peter8315 said:
Found it, looked at my other series 3 and that hadn’t got the spacer on so took so took the spacer off as measuring the lever on the pump wasn’t,t reaching the cam, so now working fine. I don’t know why some have spacers on must be a different pump with longer lever,anyway thanks all and hope this helps somebody else
Click to expand...
Trial and error I had the same problem with a couple of mine.
 
peter8315 said:
Found it, looked at my other series 3 and that hadn’t got the spacer on so took so took the spacer off as measuring the lever on the pump wasn’t,t reaching the cam, so now working fine. I don’t know why some have spacers on must be a different pump with longer lever,anyway thanks all and hope this helps somebody else
Click to expand...
The difference is on the block not on the pump. Where the pump mounts can have a "spacer" moulded into the bolck in the form a raised platform that the pump mounts to, some blocks do not have this and need the spacer to recreate it.
I do not know any more detail than that, someone with more in depth knowledge will be able to inform us which engine block variants need the spacer, which don't, and when/why the casting changed.
 
dag019 said:
The difference is on the block not on the pump. Where the pump mounts can have a "spacer" moulded into the bolck in the form a raised platform that the pump mounts to, some blocks do not have this and need the spacer to recreate it.
I do not know any more detail than that, someone with more in depth knowledge will be able to inform us which engine block variants need the spacer, which don't, and when/why the casting changed.
Click to expand...
they changed to the longer lever delphi type pump in the late 80s with the introduction of the 200 tdi,with the ali plate with spacer built in ,which meant you need a spacer for the cast steel flat plates when retrofitting the later type pump to earlier engines
 
Is the spacer the shape of the back of the pump body (2 fixing holes), rather than the thick plate that fits over the hole in the side of the block? ie, I assume I don't have the spacer fitted...

20200529_165915.jpg

I'm a bit disappointed with my pump. I bought a new (probably Britpart, as it was before I learnt about their questionable quality) pump last year when I was getting the engine running before taking it out. I've just remounted it in my new chassis and am at the point of firing it up again. But the pump appears to be knackered - both valves are sticking shut.

Am I being unreasonable in expecting a pump to survive a year without being used, having run for a total of about an hour?
 
Oh, and any idea why the manual seems to suggest the pump is removed along with the cam shaft cover plate (6 bolts) and them remove the pump from the plate later, rather than just undoing the two nuts from the studs in the plate and leave the plate in place on the side of the block?
 
TheMegaMan said:
Oh, and any idea why the manual seems to suggest the pump is removed along with the cam shaft cover plate (6 bolts) and them remove the pump from the plate later, rather than just undoing the two nuts from the studs in the plate and leave the plate in place on the side of the block?
Click to expand...
it would be wrong if it suggests that
 
OK, good. A lot easier/quicker not to. I just wondered what I was missing as I couldn't see the need for it to be done in that order.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

B
19j injector pump fuel timing question?
Replies
1
Views
424
miktdish
miktdish
roule
oil pump priming
Replies
14
Views
1K
classic kev
classic kev
jimbob89
Freelander 1 Cutting out underload
Replies
15
Views
517
jimbob89
jimbob89
A
Fuel pump
Replies
0
Views
675
Ausman123
A
DefendingLancashire
300TDI Four-parter: brake wear, lift pump / fuel filter, turbo, and bushes / squeaking
Replies
13
Views
608
miktdish
miktdish
Back
Top