Performance air filters

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Hmm, very topical! I use a K&N panel in my R25 and will fit a K&N pod to my FL1.

I'm in the process of getting my FL1 1.8 going. I'm taking the opportunity to do some mod's: I've deburred the plastic inlet manifold and checked the port sizes [ the plastic is slightly smaller than the alloy inlet side],
enshrouded the valve area in the head [both inlet & exhaust], and trimmed a wee bit [ 'back cut' ] off each valve to aid air flow,
The port's runners have been opened up a bit - maybe a couple of mm,
Trimmed any protruding valve seat bases to make a smoother air path and made an 'eased' the radius in each throat where there is a straight machined faces [ most noticeable on the short radius side of the throats],
Carved a bit out either side of the valve guide boss in each throat and trimmed of the valve guide itself [ shortened it a bit and rounded it off],
Port matched the exhaust side and removed any protruding lips or sharp edges and weld splatter right back to the first muffler,
fitted a decat pipe and will fit a K&N Apollo filter with a CAF from inside the front left guard [its end point just begs for a snorkel extension through the guard and up the LH A pillar - can anyone comment on that?]

My next plan is to explore what can be achieved by careful att'n to valve timing but without buying those expensive Verner pulleys.

My aim is to have a free breathing 'torquey' motor. I may gain some power and hopefully better MPG. Will let you know how it all goes.

Sounds like some sensible mods.
Have you thought about some 255° cams? These are designed to improve low and mid rpm torque.
Timing without verniers is relatively easy as you have a couple of options. You can use offset lock pins or set the timing bang on and drill your own lock pins through the pulleys, into the cams.
The factory markings are always out by a couple of degrees each way, so setting the cams correctly will improve the engine.
 
Hi Nodge,
I've read a little about those offset pins. Are they available 'off the peg' so to speak? The K engine site discussed them and it sounded like you would need a selection, fitting the correct ones from a selection after some careful measuring.
I think you mentioned just slotting the cam pulley roll pin hole to allow for some adjustment, I'd be keen to have a go at that. Just have to find a nice friendly person to show me how to do the measuring and who has the equipment!

This might be daft but, has anyone else done the cold air arrangement I'm looking at? I'm interested in seeing if it's feasible to adapt a commercial snorkel kit for my FL. This may be silly as I think I've also read that these will float long before you get into windscreen deep water - maybe best to keep a life raft on the roof bars!
 
Hi Nodge,
I've read a little about those offset pins. Are they available 'off the peg' so to speak? The K engine site discussed them and it sounded like you would need a selection, fitting the correct ones from a selection after some careful measuring.
I think you mentioned just slotting the cam pulley roll pin hole to allow for some adjustment, I'd be keen to have a go at that. Just have to find a nice friendly person to show me how to do the measuring and who has the equipment!

This might be daft but, has anyone else done the cold air arrangement I'm looking at? I'm interested in seeing if it's feasible to adapt a commercial snorkel kit for my FL. This may be silly as I think I've also read that these will float long before you get into windscreen deep water - maybe best to keep a life raft on the roof bars!

Offset pins generally need to be machined to match the timing change needed. If you know a friendly machine shop, can always get a few made up in different offsets.

I'm working on a cold are pickup for my V6, it's on my "to do" list anyway. I had one on my ZS180, it was worth around 7 bhp in summer.
I also have one on my VVC MGF, that is worth even more power at over 10 bhp, due to the higher engine bay temps on a mid engined car.
I'm expecting to see similar power gains on my V6 Freelander, I've measured intake temps of 55+ °C in summer!!
 
well....I think I'll just stick with standard filter but might look at ways to get a bit more cold air inthe box
thanks for the replies made for interesting reading while on the jon!
 
Sounds like some sensible mods.
Have you thought about some 255° cams? These are designed to improve low and mid rpm torque.
Timing without verniers is relatively easy as you have a couple of options. You can use offset lock pins or set the timing bang on and drill your own lock pins through the pulleys, into the cams.
The factory markings are always out by a couple of degrees each way, so setting the cams correctly will improve the engine.

Cams, I'll just leave them standard, 255s lift the torque curve a bit but more to the point I've spent my budget. All parts ready and out work done and paid for! Just a matter of putting it all back together!

Oil temp gauge. Can you tell me where to place the sensor for one of these - I was planning on an electrical one, but would be equally happy with a 'mechanical' one if that's easier to fit. I'm told the sump is where to install the temp sensor - but just where?
 
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