Painting inside of defender.

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S

Smo

Member
Posts
42
Location
England
Good Morning all,

I am doing a few repairs/welding and sorting a few jobs out inside the cab under carpet/mats etc

My plan is rub it back sort issues and repaint it. Could I just use a basic metal primer and metal paint like;
https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p20128?table=no
and just brush it on, not too bothered how it looks and it will be covered but protected.

Thanks
 
Any bare ally will need an etch primer, you can get it in spray cans just coat the bare bits with it. The existing paint, you can brush anything over that, no need for primer but avoid cellulose based products they are a bit aggressive are rather the thinner is and it may wrinkle the existing paint.
 
Flossie said:
Any bare ally will need an etch primer, you can get it in spray cans just coat the bare bits with it. The existing paint, you can brush anything over that, no need for primer but avoid cellulose based products they are a bit aggressive are rather the thinner is and it may wrinkle the existing paint.
Click to expand...
Okay great, ill grab some cans of the etch primer :)
Cheers
 
Joemac434 said:
Of you want to go really anal about it you. can brush kurust or something similar on the bare metal before anything else and be sure it'll never rust again
Click to expand...
Yeah I have used that kurust before on my old ford escort worked quite well, to be honest just want the landy solid so wont go to overboard.

Just needs some tidying up and repairing for the MOT :)

Cheers
 
Smo said:
Yeah I have used that kurust before on my old ford escort worked quite well, to be honest just want the landy solid so wont go to overboard.

Just needs some tidying up and repairing for the MOT :)

Cheers
Click to expand...
No worries mate,hope it all goes well and she passed fine,bit of evidence of work never goes amiss when they first look at it does it? Gives a good impression
 
Joemac434 said:
No worries mate,hope it all goes well and she passed fine,bit of evidence of work never goes amiss when they first look at it does it? Gives a good impression
Click to expand...

Fingers crossed, yeah that's not a bad idea with give that a go.

Will be good to get it on the road shortly, looking like it needs the foot well panels replacing and a patch on the chassis near the rear. The rest is a few lights and electrical work so hopefully not to tricky to resolve.
 
Smo said:
Fingers crossed, yeah that's not a bad idea with give that a go.

Will be good to get it on the road shortly, looking like it needs the foot well panels replacing and a patch on the chassis near the rear. The rest is a few lights and electrical work so hopefully not to tricky to resolve.
Click to expand...
Not too bad then
 
Kurust is for steel. Your floor plates are aluminium, unless you've changed them. Get the ali back to shiny metal, getting rid of any tiny indent specs holding white ali oxide powder, wipe down with panel wipe, then do what Flossie said and spray with etch primer.
 
I don't use Kurust, it will convert the rust to iron III oxide but it also coats the area in some sort of weird coating, I use Phosphoric acid which is basically (I think) the same thing, this will convert the rust, you clean the oxide off by rinsing with water then coat it in what ever you like. It does a much better job and is way cheaper than Kurust. Treating rust though wont fix any damage that the rust has caused.
 
Al2O3 said:
Kurust is for steel. Your floor plates are aluminium, unless you've changed them. Get the ali back to shiny metal, getting rid of any tiny indent specs holding white ali oxide powder, wipe down with panel wipe, then do what Flossie said and spray with etch primer.
Click to expand...

Think some has plated over them from the inside when its been rotten with steel, so I plan to take that plate out and order some new footwells and rivet them
 
nobber said:
I don't use Kurust, it will convert the rust to iron III oxide but it also coats the area in some sort of weird coating, I use Phosphoric acid which is basically (I think) the same thing, this will convert the rust, you clean the oxide off by rinsing with water then coat it in what ever you like. It does a much better job and is way cheaper than Kurust. Treating rust though wont fix any damage that the rust has caused.
Click to expand...

Interesting.. yeah Kurust isn't cheap if you need a fair amount. cheers for the info
 
Smo said:
Think some has plated over them from the inside when its been rotten with steel, so I plan to take that plate out and order some new footwells and rivet them
Click to expand...
The floor panels are held in place with large screws in to plastic fittings located along the edge of the seat box, gear box tunnel foot well and inner sill. If you fit with rivets they'll be a pain to get out again. It's handy, at times, to get access to underneath. eg if cleaning up'greasing difflock linkage
 
Al2O3 said:
The floor panels are held in place with large screws in to plastic fittings located along the edge of the seat box, gear box tunnel foot well and inner sill. If you fit with rivets they'll be a pain to get out again. It's handy, at times, to get access to underneath. eg if cleaning up'greasing difflock linkage
Click to expand...

Ahh okay cool yeah the floor panel ones are rusty and a few missing if I remember correctly. I see you can order spares online so ill grab a load.

Reading online a lot of people rivet the footwell panels it? would it better to use bolts for ease if it ever needs to come back? aslong as I protect they as best I can from rust.

Thanks
 
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