Painting bonnet - advice please!

I am considering painting the bonnet on my 110 black as the current Epsom green paint is not great with lacquer peeling in places. I am thinking of removing the existing paint and repainting the bonnet (and possibly also roof/rear door) in black.

I am sure that this is fairly common modification to standard paintjob but would be grateful for some advice as to what paint to use and whether to lacquer over etc. Anything else I should bear in mind?

Cheers

Use only black paint if you want the bonnet to be black.

Should have said what type of black paint to use and whether people recommend matt, satin, gloss or whatever, ta.

badgertvr said:

Should have said what type of black paint to use and whether people recommend matt, satin, gloss or whatever, ta.

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If you lived someplace with lots of sun, I would recommend matte finish as to not reflect the sunlight, but since you live someplace quite dreary, you get to choose.

badgertvr said:

I am considering painting the bonnet on my 110 black as the current Epsom green paint is not great with lacquer peeling in places. I am thinking of removing the existing paint and repainting the bonnet (and possibly also roof/rear door) in black.

I am sure that this is fairly common modification to standard paintjob but would be grateful for some advice as to what paint to use and whether to lacquer over etc. Anything else I should bear in mind?

Cheers

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Prep is 99% of painting. Good surface to paint on, all primer'd up and wet'n'dried to nice and flat. But if you're not that bothered, like me - just spray over the top of the mud!

I use 2k paint whenever I do any. It's good stuff, but if you're going to go down this route I would suggest some reading up about the health implications.
My personal view is that I'll be ok as it's not like I'm doing it day in day out, and I really have little care in life anymore so what the hell!
But it does worry some people and rightly so, I believe you can get standard masks rated for 2k, just they're only rated for a certain number of hours.

Thanks for the helpful replies, cheers

Depends if you want to brush, roller or spray

For the first two synthetic is the way to go

As already said, prep is the secret to a decent finish

I find it easier to get a good finish with cans... But I've seen much better than my painting done with both rollers and spray - not sure about brushing though, doesn't appeal to me lol.

TheRealPlank said:

Prep is 99% of painting. Good surface to paint on, all primer'd up and wet'n'dried to nice and flat. But if you're not that bothered, like me - just spray over the top of the mud!

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This is good advice!!! Prep really well - and make sure you remove every hint of grease.

Oh and obviously etch primer before topcoat if going back to bare metal.

2k is good stuff but it is deadly in the wrong hands. You need to wear a decent suit and make sure you are all taped up with a good full face mask. I wouldnt spray 2k with an ordinary mask myself unless outside - but then everyone around gets a nasty whiff!

Being really serious here...I painted my trailer with black tractor enamel. couldnt be bothered moving half the garage out to spray (small space) so opted to roller it.

I bought couple good stiff foam rollers (make sure they are good rigid ones - you will know the difference when they are in your hand).

Blimey - it came out REALLY WELL. And I opted for glossy finish. Good even coverage (3 coats).

Tractor enamel was cheap as chips at £28 quid and it is standing up to some serious abuse...my trailer is used daily for logs and tools.

I wanted it cheap but smart and after seeing the abuse its taking I would not hesitate to paint the Landy with it. Although you need to give it some time to harden up - mine was a little soft for a few weeks.

And if your worried about future topcoat reactions, you ca always spray some isolator primer when the time comes in the future.

I find Matt a pig - don't like it at all - like the look just think it always looks 'patchy' after getting dirty a few times and has never truly hardened enough for my taste (stuff I've used anyway).

Satin is nice - still hides some stuff, maybe not as well but the slight sheen keeps things smart whilst being easy and forgiving.

My father in law can paint with roller and brush to an absolute perfect finish!!! But hes a lazy git and although would offer to do it for me...I'd be retired by time he got around to it!

I wouldnt be afraid of glossy finish though - even with few imperfections I think Landys carry the roller paint jobs really well compared to other vehicles...its the whole working vehicle thing isint it!

You can get into tight bits with a brush - then smooth over with the roller to avoid brush strokes!