painting and touch up

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JTlandyboy

Active Member
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128
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Isle Of Harris Outer Hebrides
My 1974 Land Rover 88 Is in pretty good condition bodywork wise just a bit of minor surface rust around the bulkhead air vents etc. When I bought her she had already been brush painted, which is ok I don't mind it looks pretty good overall, I would like to give her a fresh coat of paint and tidy her up though, probably with a Roller. I've got my paint both in can and spray form from Auto paints in St Helens. What I'm after here is a little guidance (bearing in mind it isn't perfection I'm after.) on information regarding rust proof undercoats etc? What's the best product to use on the surface rust areas once rubbed down before putting my top coat on. Also what fillers for minor dents in Aluminium panels? Ta.
 
From what I've seen, generally people just rub down the existing paint, I belive if it's cellulose (which it should be) then primer isn't nececary???
Also what surface rust, it's aluminium ? If your talking about the crossmember, I guess Hammerite 10year direct to rust would be appropriate?
I would think that any standard body filler would work just aswell as another, but hey I'm by no means an expert and I've never painted a car!
 
I'm just finishing the rebuild on my 1965 SWB where I've taken pretty much everything down to bare metal and resprayed it myself. I'm lucky enough to have friends with all the gear I can borrow but brush/rollering works just fine too if you're careful.

Bare aluminium needs to be etch primed before you can put any other paint ontop, I used this Eastwood Self Etch Primer | Frost Auto Restoration Techniques and then a coat of Paddocks undercoat and then the top coat (I'm using paddocks bronze green)

All the steel needs all the rust removing completely, firstly any large amounts removed by wire brush etc and then treated (theres plenty of rust treatments out there). The steel can then be primed, I used a product called Zinc 182, its a grey primer I got from a local paint specialist, which inhibits corrosion, then it can be top coated.

Obviously theres loads of products out there and what I used isn't the be all and end all but I found it worked well. I do think that this is certainly a job worth doing well (especially taking the time to etch prime, undercoat etc) as otherwise in a couple of months you may have flakey paint!

Hope this helps
 
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