Series 2 back on the road

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kermit_rr

kermit_rr

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North Shropshire
Starting to get my 2A back on the road after a very long rest.
Cursory check of the chassis and it looks remarkably well, needs some surface rust and flaky paint sorting out, but so far pretty solid.
Wheel cylinders at worst need rebuilding, at best, replacing.
New oil in the diffs, new oil seals for the hubs etc will be needed as it's not turned a wheel in a long time.
I've started in the engine by cleaning the SU! Because it's an easy one so that's ready to go back on.
Need to check the starter circuit because last time i pushed the button, there was a pop and a bang, followed by smoke, don't know what or where yet.
The engine needs checking out, before it was laid up, greedy breaking would see the oil light come on, not sure if that's a dodgy switch it something more sinister. It generally ran very well.
Another engine electrical problem needs checking, it would randomly cut out while driving few a few seconds then pop back into life. Related to the pop/bang? No idea yet.
New fuel needs putting on, needs painting etc is there a trick to minimise rot between the double skin on the sides/underneath?
Already got a battery ready to go on! Hopefully make some progress and get running before it gets too chilly.
Oh yes and i need a new round Smith's heater core to keep me cosy
 
kermit_rr said:
Starting to get my 2A back on the road after a very long rest.
Cursory check of the chassis and it looks remarkably well, needs some surface rust and flaky paint sorting out, but so far pretty solid.
Wheel cylinders at worst need rebuilding, at best, replacing.
New oil in the diffs, new oil seals for the hubs etc will be needed as it's not turned a wheel in a long time.
I've started in the engine by cleaning the SU! Because it's an easy one so that's ready to go back on.
Need to check the starter circuit because last time i pushed the button, there was a pop and a bang, followed by smoke, don't know what or where yet.
The engine needs checking out, before it was laid up, greedy breaking would see the oil light come on, not sure if that's a dodgy switch it something more sinister. It generally ran very well.
Another engine electrical problem needs checking, it would randomly cut out while driving few a few seconds then pop back into life. Related to the pop/bang? No idea yet.
New fuel needs putting on, needs painting etc is there a trick to minimise rot between the double skin on the sides/underneath?
Already got a battery ready to go on! Hopefully make some progress and get running before it gets too chilly.
Oh yes and i need a new round Smith's heater core to keep me cosy
Click to expand...

New plugs/leads/dizzy cap/rotor arm/coil and points if it still has them.

Heavy braking and oil light could be oil level low no matter what the stick says, or maybe as simple as wiring issue as the engine moves due to soggy engine mounts.
 
lynall said:
New plugs/leads/dizzy cap/rotor arm/coil and points if it still has them.

Heavy braking and oil light could be oil level low no matter what the stick says, or maybe as simple as wiring issue as the engine moves due to soggy engine mounts.
Click to expand...
Low oil level, how can the stick be wrong? It didn't always have the light come on. Could be wiring though the mounts were good at the last check
 
I also get the oil pressure light flash up on heavy breaking, or steep descents off road.

Not investigated it yet but I'm on new mounts post full rebuild and definitely correct oil level on the stick.
 
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I've got an oil pressure gauge which can go on once i get it running, that should tell me if it's the pressure switch.
Not sure if i have the right thread adapter
 
kermit_rr said:
Low oil level, how can the stick be wrong? It didn't always have the light come on. Could be wiring though the mounts were good at the last check
Click to expand...
The tube that the stick goes down can be seated wrongly in the block. If it’s not seated down to its armpits it can be high, therefore keeping the stick from the oil and givie an inaccurate guesstimate.
Not common but worth checking.
 
kermit_rr said:
Low oil level, how can the stick be wrong? It didn't always have the light come on. Could be wiring though the mounts were good at the last check
Click to expand...


I was thinking, how do you know it is the correct stick?

Free check would be at next oil change and measure exactly what comes out the sump, but do bear in mind when they quote capacities there is dry and wet fill capacities, wet is normally 1/2 to 1 litre less than dry capacity.
 
lynall said:
I was thinking, how do you know it is the correct stick?

Free check would be at next oil change and measure exactly what comes out the sump, but do bear in mind when they quote capacities there is dry and wet fill capacities, wet is normally 1/2 to 1 litre less than dry capacity.
Click to expand...
I've never changed the stick and not always had the problem.. I'm thinking i should start with a new filter and oil change then see what happens from there. It's not been run in a decade
 
lynall said:
You are not using some fancy semi or syn oil are you? good old 20/50 is the kiddy, especially is she has some miles on her.
Click to expand...
No non of that nasty muck! Only dinosaurs in the sump!
I've got some valvoline vr1 20/50 that was going to go in the RR, can't see any reason i can't use that as I've got it? So what if there's extra zddp... used to have that years ago? They only stopped it because it can ruin a cat
 
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Hopefully i will be getting the old fuel tank off this weekend, maybe even the new tank on!!
Anything i should be doing before i try to start up? Carb has been stripped and cleaned, the engine turns freely, but the oil and coolant will be older than the dinosaurs! If all goes to plan then I'll warm the engine to aid draining the old oil. Put a new filter on then refill with the vr1 oil I've got.

Do i need to worry about the diaphragm in the fuel pump?
 
Here's a good one.
Oil filled ignition coil orientation. When i got it, i was told terminals at the bottom, to keep them air gap at the top.
The coil is supposed to go horizontal on the rocker cover, but is that the epoxy type?
Plenty of folks say it doesn't matter.. but the 'I've had loads and never had a problem' sounds to me like they do
I'm struggling to find a new king lead that's long enough to reach the bulkhead
 
Progress.. found an oil filter in my don't chuck pile.. where do you get these filters from? Can only seem to find the shorties :(
16645212761410.jpg
 
Right. Carb is cleaned, fuel filter bowl is cleaned.
Fuel tank is ready for removal and new one almost ready to go on!
Indicators work. Headlights and tail/side lights work!!
Next biggies.. brake flexi hoses, brake pistons.. see how the master cylinder is. Clutch works, so fingers crossed.
Then we should be good to fire up!! I think.
 
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