Paint or oil

A

Angus McDangle

Guest

• Oct 13, 2004

• #1

Hi, just taken delivery of a replacement rolling chassis for my 90. I have
cleaned it down and there is virtually no rust on it at all (and certainly
no rot). I am in an ideal position to treat this chassis before I begin
bolting the bits back on.

Question: Would you simply WaxOil it, or would you paint it (Hammerite
style). I have a friend who says the metal should breathe, so only oil it,
but another friend who swears by paint (10 year guarantee with Hammerite).
I personally like the idea of painting it whilst I can get my hands on it,
and oiling it in later months/years????

 

L

Larry

Guest

• Oct 13, 2004

• #2

Paint it, but don't forget it because the enemy is always vigilant

Me I have a light coating of rust at the moment on varios parts of the
chassis, until I get round to cleaning it off and painting it (the weather
not really being conducive at the moment) I think the worst thing in the
world is the kind of coating that just masks what is going on underneath and
I would far rather the surface rust than the invisible worm eating its way
from the inside out.

--
Larry
Series 3 rust and holes


"Angus McDangle" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi, just taken delivery of a replacement rolling chassis for my 90. I
have
> cleaned it down and there is virtually no rust on it at all (and certainly
> no rot). I am in an ideal position to treat this chassis before I begin
> bolt ingthebitsbackon.
>
> Question: Would you simply WaxOil it, or would you paint it (Hammerite
> style). I have a friend who says the metal should breathe, so only oil
it,
> but another friend who swears by paint (10 year guarantee with Hammerite).
> I personally like the idea of painting it whilst I can get my hands on it,
> and oiling it in later months/years????
>
>

 

R

Richard

Guest

• Oct 13, 2004

• #3

paint with hammerite then waxoyl it


"Angus McDangle" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi, just taken delivery of a replacement rolling chassis for my 90. I
> have
> cleaned it down and there is virtually no rust on it at all (and certainly
> no rot). I am in an ideal position to treat this chassis before I begin
> bolting the bits back on.
>
> Question: Would you simply WaxOil it, or would you paint it (Hammerite
> style). I have a friend who says the metal should breathe, so only oil
> it,
> but another friend who swears by paint (10 year guarantee with Hammerite).
> I personally like the idea of painting it whilst I can get my hands on it,
> and oiling it in later months/years????
>
>

 

B

Bob Miller

Guest

• Oct 13, 2004

• #4

"Richard" <richardsemail [email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> paint with hammerite then waxoyl it
>
I'm told the trouble with Hammerite on the chassis is that it doesn't flex
plus you need, at the very least, two coats - I prefer more. Smoothrite did
a good job of the rear crossmember and bumper on mine, but a friend
Hammerited the chassis and did a good job, but it still didn't last. POR-15
is supposed to be the mutts-nuts so I'm using that when I change the tank
this weekend.
--
Bob Miller
1990 ex-RAF 110 3.5 V8 17KJ83
3/4 ton Sankey 09ES17

 

R

Richard Savage

Guest

• Oct 13, 2004

• #5

Angus McDangle wrote:

>Hi, just taken delivery of a replacement rolling chassis for my 90. I have
>cleaned it down and there is virtually no rust on it at all (and certainly
>no rot). I am in an ideal position to treat this chassis before I begin
>bolting the bits back on.
>
>Question: Would you simply WaxOil it, or would you paint it (Hammerite
>style). I have a friend who says the metal should breathe, so only oil it,
>but another friend who swears by paint (10 year guarantee with Hammerite).
>I personally like the idea of painting it whilst I can get my hands on it,
>and oiling it in later months/years????
>
>
>

Mate took some boat bits to a galvanising firm. Was amused to see a rolling Citroen 2CV chassis being dipped. Is that viable for your chassis? I know that the inevitable attentions of the welder in later years will need caution but . . .

Richard

 

F

fanie

Guest

• Oct 14, 2004

• #6

You are all wrong. While you have it stripped, get it off to the local
galvanizer and forget about any problems in future.

Regards
Stephen

 

A

Austin Shackles

Guest

• Oct 14, 2004

• #7

On or around Wed, 13 Oct 2004 21:59:23 +0100, "Bob Miller"
<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:

>
>"Richard" <richardsemail [email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> paint with hammerite then waxoyl it
>>
>I'm told the trouble with Hammerite on the chassis is that it doesn't flex
>plus you need, at the very least, two coats - I prefer more. Smoothrite did
>a good job of the rear crossmember and bumper on mine, but a friend
>Hammerited the chassis and did a good job, but it still didn't last. POR-15
>is supposed to be the mutts-nuts so I'm using that when I change the tank
>this weekend.

There's also that galvafroid stuff. Painted ny rebuilt tow hitch with it,
not got around to putting any top coat on it yet. seems OK so far...

 

P

Peter Sjödin

Guest

• Oct 14, 2004

• #8

"Bob Miller" <[email protected]> skrev i meddelandet
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Richard" <richardsemail [email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> paint with hammerite then waxoyl it
>>
> I'm told the trouble with Hammerite on the chassis is that it doesn't flex
> plus you need, at the very least, two coats - I prefer more. Smoothrite
> did
> a good job of the rear crossmember and bumper on mine, but a friend
> Hammerited the chassis and did a good job, but it still didn't last.
> POR-15
> is supposed to be the mutts-nuts so I'm using that when I change the tank
> this weekend.
> --
> Bob Miller
> 1990 ex-RAF 110 3.5 V8 17KJ83
> 3/4 ton Sankey 09ES17
>
>

You are right. Do not paint with a standard paint. Use a zinkprimer.

/Peter (with a rusty Disco)

 

R

Richard Savage

Guest

• Oct 14, 2004

• #9

Mr.Nice. wrote:

>If it's solid you can do no better (in my opinion) than galvanizing
>it.
>Second to that, there is some paint I've seen talked about that's used
>to paint oil-rigs and such.
>
>
>Regards.
>Mark.(AKA, Mr.Nice.)
>
>

Do you mean Galvafroid? Soooo expensive it'll turn your politics red.
But it's the mutts nuts.

And spray the interior with Dinitrol?


Richard

 

D

David Bexhall

Guest

• Oct 16, 2004

• #10

"Angus McDangle" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi, just taken delivery of a replacement rolling chassis for my 90. I
have
> cleaned it down and there is virtually no rust on it at all (and certainly
> no rot). I am in an ideal position to treat this chassis before I begin
> bolting the bits back on.
>
> Question: Would you simply WaxOil it, or would you paint it (Hammerite
> style). I have a friend who says the metal should breathe, so only oil
it,
> but another friend who swears by paint (10 year guarantee with Hammerite).
> I personally like the idea of painting it whilst I can get my hands on it,
> and oiling it in later months/years????
>
>

My experience over several decades of trying to protect mild steel exposed
to the weather is that paint will always do a better job than oil. I've
sometimes yielded to the temptation to use oil because it's quick, but you
always wind up painting it in the end. Clean off all rust back to bright
metal first.

Dave