P38 - Won't Start, Wont fire.

Well after joining the forum last week and having no problems it seems I tempted fate, My 4.6 HSE refused to start on Sunday. The engine turns over but doesn't fire. As we had pretty much constant rain on Sunday I thought it may be just damp and left it to dry out. Went to start it Yesterday and same thing, callled out the AA and thought I was onto a winner when a new Discovery turned up with "Customer Support" on the side - a proper Land Rover Technician no less!!! Then someone who hadn't even started to shave properly climbed out - he only knows about the newer shape ones and has little or no clue on the P38 - anyway after an hour he wants to tow it to the garage I use, I call them and as they are only a general garage and not that clued up on Rangie's they politely decline my non-starting P38, hence my call for help - can anyone reccomend someone local(ish) to Leighton Buzzard or in Bedordshire that can come out and look at my stricken Rangie? Hopefully with the right man this can be fixed quickly - last trip was Saturday to the MOT station (it passed )
AA man did diagnose that no spark was present but I am not confident that he really knew what he was doing without the aid of his laptop.

Any help or guidance will be much appreciated,

Darren

Loss of sync is likely, put up your location, there may be someone nearby with diagnostics or a syncmate.

Thanks for the reply - I am in Edlesborough - Bucks - which is near Leighton Buzzard.

I have just spoken to a Land Rover Specialist in Kings Langley who are coming to recover the car this afternoon and plug it into "T4". I will update in the next couple of days with a diagnosis if they can find one so that it can possibly help someone else.

Darren

Just to FYI (and not intended to teach you to suck eggs if you already know this) if you need to tow it on 4 wheels you MUST put the box into transfer neutral by putting a fuse into slot 11 under the seat....this effectively disconnects the two propshafts from the main GB and prevents immense damage.

Saint.V8 said:

Just to FYI (and not intended to teach you to suck eggs if you already know this) if you need to tow it on 4 wheels you MUST put the box into transfer neutral by putting a fuse into slot 11 under the seat....this effectively disconnects the two propshafts from the main GB and prevents immense damage.

Click to expand...

Well done Saint bet that was missed however if it is a good indy they SHOULD know - how many times have I been disappointed

Thanks for the tip - I was waiting on something with a spectacle lift turning up but was pleasantly surprised when a flat bed recovery truck arrived and the old girl was put on with a lot of care and attention - driver even said it was the tidiest example he had seen in a while - but he probably says that to all the boys lol.

I guess I will find out what is wrong in the next couple of days and will report back.

Darren

Grand....

Also just to note (not to yourself but to anyone else reading this)

If it is spectacle lift only - remove the propshaft to the axle left on the ground.

If it is a 4 wheel tow - Fuse in position 11 and limit speed and distance.

Best is a 4 wheel lift (flatbed type recovery lorry)

Are you a GEMS or a THOR?

There is a Nanocom in Aylesbury for GEMS P38's.

They can easily re-sync you and read any fault codes. Save a fortune on being recovered if it's something dead simple.

Oh...I've ust read the rest of the thread.

Anyhoo, you know for next time!

I think its's a Thor engine - with the "bunch of banana's" plenum.....

Thanks for the heads up though

Darren

Bananas = THOR.

The Aylesbury Nanocom will read most of your fault codes...but it couldn't help with the engine resync anyway I'm afraid.

MrGorsky said:

Bananas = THOR.

The Aylesbury Nanocom will read most of your fault codes...but it couldn't help with the engine resync anyway I'm afraid.

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Thought for Engine Faults etc it had to be GEMS/THOR specific too??

Saint.V8 said:

Thought for Engine Faults etc it had to be GEMS/THOR specific too??

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They do...but it'll still read HEVAC, BECM, gearbox and any components that are common to both.

Won't do the engine or the ABS/TC..? But everything else I think.

Well garage have just called and said that they have it started! - They read the codes and the immobilizer had lost contact with something else - he seemed to think that a low battery could have triggered it but battery seems fine and only went flat through me trying to start it. Going to collect it now so we shall see what happens.

Darren

Popular fault with the P38.

The BECM looses sync with the engine ECU so the immobiliser can't be switched off.

Search for "BECM loss of sync" on here, covered many many many many times. You can buy a cheap(ish) tool to fix it called a syncmate. Small enough to keep in your glove compartment and will save you calling out assistance in the future.....but I'd get a Nanocom (a small Range Rover diagnostic computer) because it does other useful things like reading fault codes should you find yourself in the unlikely position of having another problem with your car!

Low battery volts does seem to be a causing factor. Winter is coming, buy a new one of these now!

Saint.V8 said:

Grand....

Also just to note (not to yourself but to anyone else reading this)

If it is spectacle lift only - remove the propshaft to the axle left on the ground.

If it is a 4 wheel tow - Fuse in position 11 and limit speed and distance.

Best is a 4 wheel lift (flatbed type recovery lorry)

Click to expand...

V8 can you explain what a spectacle lift is (and reference to propshaft), so I need to request a special type of recovery vehicle if broken down, or if being towed up onto a flatbed, put a fuse (which size?) into slot 11?

P

Parisien said:

V8 can you explain what a spectacle lift is (and reference to propshaft), so I need to request a special type of recovery vehicle if broken down, or if being towed up onto a flatbed, put a fuse (which size?) into slot 11?

P

Click to expand...

Spectacle Lift....


With two wheels still on the ground, as the vehicle is moved this will turn the propshaft which will turn the centre diff but as the other two wheels are locked in place, the excess speed difference will knacker the centre diff, so to prevent this you need to remove the propshaft to the axle that is still on the ground.

As for winching on to a flatbed - at the speed and distance of the winch is only a short way, no need to put fuse in to select transfer neutral. However if you are having it towed with all four wheels on the ground, for longer than say 30 yards at any speed over a few miles an hour, use the fuse!

Every day...a new lesson......thanks

It will have to be flatbed jobbie!

P

MrGorsky said:

Popular fault with the P38.

The BECM looses sync with the engine ECU so the immobiliser can't be switched off.

Search for "BECM loss of sync" on here, covered many many many many times. You can buy a cheap(ish) tool to fix it called a syncmate. Small enough to keep in your glove compartment and will save you calling out assistance in the future.....but I'd get a Nanocom (a small Range Rover diagnostic computer) because it does other useful things like reading fault codes should you find yourself in the unlikely position of having another problem with your car!

Low battery volts does seem to be a causing factor. Winter is coming, buy a new one of these now!

Click to expand...

Thank you - I will be ordering one of those batteries in the morning, hopefully it will be here for the weekend and I can get it fitted. I dont think there is much wrong with the battery on it but that can go in the shed as a back up for the winter. May well invest in a syncmate for peace of mind.

Well I collected my Rangie from the garage and all is well again, although it isn't my daily drive I do like driving it

Cost of re-setting the codes was £45 - and I was very impressed with the service I got from the guys at Kings Langley Landrover and most of all the quick turnaround.

Thanks all for advice and input

Darren

Saint.V8 said:

Spectacle Lift....

With two wheels still on the ground, as the vehicle is moved this will turn the propshaft which will turn the centre diff but as the other two wheels are locked in place, the excess speed difference will knacker the centre diff, so to prevent this you need to remove the propshaft to the axle that is still on the ground.

As for winching on to a flatbed - at the speed and distance of the winch is only a short way, no need to put fuse in to select transfer neutral. However if you are having it towed with all four wheels on the ground, for longer than say 30 yards at any speed over a few miles an hour, use the fuse!

Click to expand...

not really ant most prof spec lift recovery opperators carry or should carry dollys incase a full lift is needed