P38 V8 heads off

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M

mattfletcher

New Member
Posts
147
Location
walsall, west midlands
Right, as some of you may remember I was having problems with my Rangie popping and banging and cutting out. I compression tested it, and found number 1 cylinder? Left hand bank was 20psi short of the other 7. Well finally bit the bullet and took both heads off. Removed the left hand bank first, no signs of burnt valves or blown head gasket. The block face seems fairly fresh as does the head face. Already showed signs of head removal of how clean the sides of them were.
Both rockers had oily crud built up in them, it was nearly baked on. The right hand rocker cover also showed signs of oil mixed with water. There was coolant running out of the heads when the head bolts were loosened, so I take it I'm not losing coolant through a cracked block? No signs of any cracks and the liners seem to be all level with the block face. Would you be able to see a cracked block? Do they normally crack in a visable place? Also I noticed a bit of play in the water pump, so going to have to change that aswell.
 
But if the water ways were cracked wouldn't the water be lost in the engine and mixing with the oil? There was still water in the heads when I broke them from the block? The water used to push through the header tank overflow when it was running. I'm getting the heads pressure tested soon and going to reseat the valves. Looking at the right hand bank it looks like a new head, as it is far too clean. Gav the plugs are black as are all the combustion chambers, a proper soot black.
 
if it has cracked block it would be norm to throw the water out of hether tank, it does sound like yours has been running rich what where tops of pistons like?
 
The pistons are black, carbon black by the looks. So is it worth me putting it back together with new gaskets and water pump and seeing what happens? Or put it back together with new gaskets and water pump and then put some block sealer in it? I've already got the block sealer but don't want to use it if I don't have to, also still can't pinpoint why number 1 cylinder left hand bank, was down 20psi on compression compared to the others.
 
Sent the heads away to be checked and pressure tested think he's going to look at the valves aswell. Going to reseat the valves when I get them back. Put it back together and if that doesn't cure it I'm going to admit defeat and claim a cracked block................ anyone got a decent block for sale? How much do decent blocks fetch? I've got some block sealer, think its K-seal, came from Canada for sure. Just rather solve the problem once and for all rather than bodge and always know sooner all later it will be back to haunt me. Anyone got any tips for draining the cooling system completely of coolant?
 
k seal's for your rad and ****e, the stuff your supposed to use is k-steel.
nearly the same but if you have any antifreeze at all in the system it will **** it up good style.
 
Hi if K steel is ****e because you have antifreeze in the system how do you get round it as you always need antifreeze in the engine.
 
sorry, didn't explain.
you need to flush the cooling system out so there is no antifreeze at all in the system. this can take 5-6 flushes to do if your lucky,
then you put the k steel in and run it for however long it says on the bottle.
then you get to start flushing all over again till all traces of the k steel have gone . then you fill the cooling system as normal with antifeeze/water:D
 
as you have read iron tite is the best of the of the bunch, but it will not last forever mine keeped on the road for 8 months then put engine in as i did not wish to do it in the winter haha. reading what you have had problems with the chances are good that you haVE a cracked block but i think you know that ..
 
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