P38 starting problems

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Well the cold starting seems fine with new battery. I just give it a few heats first and it fires after a few cranks. So if I refit the hot start fix I'd imagine it will be ok...
Put some decent glowplugs in and you will only need one heat cycle unless the EDC engine temperature sensor is shot. Make sure the hot start fix is the timed version or you will have crap fuel consumption and it will not do the engine a lot of good.
 
Yeah will order some Bosch ones.

Need to sort this low power issue tho. Sometimes it's scary. Changed map and cleaned inter cooler. Seems slightly better after cleaning but map made no difference. Pipes to and from turbo seem ok
 
Yeah will order some Bosch ones.

Need to sort this low power issue tho. Sometimes it's scary. Changed map and cleaned inter cooler. Seems slightly better after cleaning but map made no difference. Pipes to and from turbo seem ok
Is the loss of power only below 2200rpm? If so you can ignore the turbo.
They do not have much power as normal until the turbo gets going, you need to drive another to compare. Also the throttle is strange, only the last 15% of travel makes it really go.
 
Yeah as soon as it hits 2000 revs or so it's off like a rocket...

Here's a thought tho and I'm probably wrong but worth mentioning

The egr valve (the part where the vac pipe connects, I forget its name) leaks a bit of oil.. There's a small hole in the bottom right by where the vac pipe connects. I know it's pulling a small amount of oil back through the air inlet but I would assume for initial power the manifold would need to be under pressure? As there is no difference wether map connected or not I would assume there is little or no pressure there anyway. So if its leaking oil, surly it's leaking pressure?? Could this be the cause of lack of power?

Also fuel consumption is crap... 16.8 mpg it reads at the moment on the average.

I'm sure the p in p38 stands for piece of ****. Lol.
 
Yeah as soon as it hits 2000 revs or so it's off like a rocket...

Here's a thought tho and I'm probably wrong but worth mentioning

The egr valve (the part where the vac pipe connects, I forget its name) leaks a bit of oil.. There's a small hole in the bottom right by where the vac pipe connects. I know it's pulling a small amount of oil back through the air inlet but I would assume for initial power the manifold would need to be under pressure? As there is no difference wether map connected or not I would assume there is little or no pressure there anyway. So if its leaking oil, surly it's leaking pressure?? Could this be the cause of lack of power?

Also fuel consumption is crap... 16.8 mpg it reads at the moment on the average.

I'm sure the p in p38 stands for piece of ****. Lol.
I'll check but I'm sure the hole should be there, but it should not be leaking oil. Check the EGR valve is fully closed and that it is held closed with some pressure then disconnect the vac pipe, either that or block it off with a coin.
A leaking EGR will certainly cause loss of power especially in the pre turbo phase. Until the turbo kicks in there is no positive pressure in the manifold. A duff MAF will also cause problems as apart from anything else it affects the control of the EGR valve before the turbo produces positive pressure in the manifold.
 
I will have a look when I get home tonight. Would one of them blanking kits help? But I've heard that they will be an mot failure next year?

It definetly seems to be lacking in pressure. Then when it's up to 2000rpm it's off... I've run with the maf disconnected and there was a noticeable difference for the worse...
 
I will have a look when I get home tonight. Would one of them blanking kits help? But I've heard that they will be an mot failure next year?

It definetly seems to be lacking in pressure. Then when it's up to 2000rpm it's off... I've run with the maf disconnected and there was a noticeable difference for the worse...
Looking at BMW and other sites, it could also be a duff MAF although Wammers will disagree.
No need for a blanking kit, if the valve closes and seals correctly, just removing the vac pipe disables it. Otherwise you can blank the pipe from the exhaust where it meets the EGR valve with a coin. No one will know if you do this so no problem with the MOT. I run with the VAC pipe off and put it back for the French MOT.
 
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This is the internals of the hot start fix I have. It this ok? And any adjustments that need to be made?
 
Looking at BMW and other sites, it could also be a duff MAF although Wammers will disagree.
No need for a blanking kit, if the valve closes and seals correctly, just removing the vac pipe disables it. Otherwise you can blank the pipe from the exhaust where it meets the EGR valve with a coin. No one will know if you do this so no problem with the MOT. I run with the VAC pipe off and put it back for the French MOT.

Running with the MAF disconnected or even on the passenger seat makes no difference to my P38. If he wants to try a new one and waste £70.00 or so. Pierburg 7.22184.00 or 7.22184.500. :):)
 
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Thanks.. I will do that and wire it back up over the weekend..

I put the coin in the egr and took the vacuum pipe off and it's running better, more top end power.. Take off seemed better but will see after a few days.
 
Thanks.. I will do that and wire it back up over the weekend..

I put the coin in the egr and took the vacuum pipe off and it's running better, more top end power.. Take off seemed better but will see after a few days.
With the coin in place you can leave the Vac pipe connected so it looks normal:)
 
It does on mine and several others. Yours has had a remap which may affect it.

This is true. I have not driven it for extended periods with the MAF off. But no difference when it was done. Incorrect signals from the MAF will cause EGR to operate when it should not. That is the main cause of power loss. EGR should drop out on acceleration. If it's not doing that you are bound to get power loss. But that could also be down to the modulation valve.:)
 
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