P38 Split radiator 2.5d

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meltontrees

Member
Posts
25
Location
Birmingham
Hi Guys,
Ive got a split along the top of the my radiator, it looses coolant at a rate of knots! I no this going to need replacing, just wondering how easy a job it is to do on my own??

cheers Lewis
 
Hi Guys,

Thanks for the responces, Ive replaced the rad, the water pump I think seems be working ok, but i took it for a spin there was a lot pressure built up on the rad hoses, could this we the thermostat or pump or in need of a bleed?

What os the best way to check these out and how do I bleed the system?

P.s there temp guage is on half way when the engine os warm.

Cheers

L
 
Hi Guys,

Thanks for the responces, Ive replaced the rad, the water pump I think seems be working ok, but i took it for a spin there was a lot pressure built up on the rad hoses, could this we the thermostat or pump or in need of a bleed?

What os the best way to check these out and how do I bleed the system?

P.s there temp guage is on half way when the engine os warm.

Cheers

L

You need to take the pump out and check it, "think it's working" is not good enough. If it's the plastic impeller type, the blades break off. Do the same with the thermostat before you cook the engine.

If your new rad is a cheapo not OEM it could be missing the baffle in the header tank at the top which renders the rad useless, others have had this problem. check that the bottom of the rad is getting hot as well as the top, or if you have the rad off to check the pump do the marble test. Drop a marble in one pipe entry, tilt the rad and see if it comes out of the other entry, if it does the rad is no good.

You can help remove air from the system by squeezing and releasing the hoses rapidly, but as you have had a split rad I don't think it will be an air in the system problem.

If the pump and the thermostat are OK I regret to say it is likely to be a head gasket or if you are unlucky a cracked head:eek:
 
It`s normal to have pressure build up in the cooling system: take the top off a perfectly good system when warm and treat yourself to a hot shower in smelly scalding antifreeze!. So is the pressure excessive or not? If your system rises to working temp in about 5 mins driving and never goes above the half way point on the gauge, there is probably not a problem. Keep a close check on temp gauge, coolant level and check oil dipstick for level and contamination , but don`t get too paranoid.... Yet.
 
Hi,
the rad is made by Brit part I got it from m&m 4x4 in drotwich.

I will have a look at the pump & thermostat tonight, with regards to pressure I had left the engine off for about half an hour and the rad hoses were bulging still infill I let the pressure out off the header tank.
 
It`s normal to have pressure build up in the cooling system: take the top off a perfectly good system when warm and treat yourself to a hot shower in smelly scalding antifreeze!. So is the pressure excessive or not? If your system rises to working temp in about 5 mins driving and never goes above the half way point on the gauge, there is probably not a problem. Keep a close check on temp gauge, coolant level and check oil dipstick for level and contamination , but don`t get too paranoid.... Yet.

Yes but it was excess pressure that split the rad was it not?
 
Hi,
the rad is made by Brit part I got it from m&m 4x4 in drotwich.

I will have a look at the pump & thermostat tonight, with regards to pressure I had left the engine off for about half an hour and the rad hoses were bulging still infill I let the pressure out off the header tank.


BritPart otherwise known here as ****part may have sold you a duff rad, do the marble test if you are lucky it could be a duff rad, water pump or thermostat, but from your last comment I fear it could be more serious.:eek:
 
Datatec, yes IF the rad was split because of excess pressure (as you`re probably thinking from blown gasket/ cracked combustion chamber), then you`re correct there is a need to investigate further, to find the underlying cause. IF however the rad split because of bad mounting/ vibration/ corrosion then, yes, be cautious but don`t whip the heads off yet, surely?
 
Seems to me if it reaches operating temp quickly, and then doesn`t rise any further, there is no prob with the t`stat. Any comments?
 
Don't know what year your DSE is, but sometime in the late nineties BMW recalled every vehicle fitted with the same type of cap fitted to the DSE for a modified part. They were failing and causing rads to blow. Same type plastic rad top as the DSE. If the water pump, a common problem, is not giving of it's best and extra pressure builds up but the cap cannot relieve it. Hottest part of rad (the top) is obvious fail point. Just a thought.
 
Ok Just had the rangie out for a drive, there is no contamination in the oil when i checked the dip stick and oil filler.
the header tank boiled over and was spitting etc both rad pipes and radiator are really hot but the temp gauge reads normal temp middle of the gauge? any suggestions??

How do i go about stripping the water pump out? is this tricky?

thank s for the help so far!

Lew
 
Ok Just had the rangie out for a drive, there is no contamination in the oil when i checked the dip stick and oil filler.
the header tank boiled over and was spitting etc both rad pipes and radiator are really hot but the temp gauge reads normal temp middle of the gauge? any suggestions??

How do i go about stripping the water pump out? is this tricky?

thank s for the help so far!

Lew

No it's easy. Remove fan, drop tension off belt undo bolts and pull out.
 
Time for a sniffer test?? Sounds like you do have a problem, so go for a test to see if coolant is contaminated with combustion gases. Relatively cheap `n` easy. Then if positive prepare for a head off strip. If negative look at water pump.
 
Just drained the system and re filled with coolant and took her for a spin, the pressure did not seem to build up as much as before, but will go and get a test done

thank you for all your help and advice.

Regards

Lewis
 
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