P38 Passenger Side Central Locking

I have a 96 4.6HSE, and the lock on the front passenger door doesn't respond to the key fob or to manual locking/unlocking of the driver's side lock. If the passenger side is manually locked/unlocked by moving the button it does effect all the other door locks correctly (i.e. they lock/unlock when it does).
Also, when the driver's lock button is moved it only sometimes effects the other door locks (never the passenger front though).
There are no errors reported by the computer.
What's my best plan of attack? How difficult is it to remove the door linings? I think my first move should involve a can of spray grease and possibly a soldering iron... Any hints would be gratefully received!


P.S. I'm not being lazy, I've had a browse through the posts and can't find quite what I need!

To be honest I would just straight out replace the passenger side door latch. I had the door lock problem when I bought my Range Rover and it was caused by a bad door latch. To replace was something like £150 if i remember correctly.

In regards to the drivers side latch, it sounds like it could be on its way out. My drivers side latch went around 2/3 months after installing the passenger one. Search over on Rangerovers.net if you want to have a go at repairing it yourself!

To get the door cards off is a simple task although you need to be a bit gentle the first few times until you get the hang of how to do it.

Basically, pop off the little triangle at the front of the door, this usually houses a little speaker for the stereo system. The triangular piece just pulls straight off although it can take some force to get it to come, just be firm but gentle. Secondly, remove the one screw thats now exposed. Next remove the two screws underneath the handle you grab to close the door. The next part is the slightly difficult part, get a long flat blade screwdrive and wrap the end in tape or cover it with a cloth and push it into the joint between the door frame and the door card. VERY gently (so you dont damage the paint) push the screwdriver so you lever the door card towards the inside of the car. At this point you will probably start to heard a few loud pops and bangs, this is normal, its the clips that hold the door card on popping out. Continue doing this all the way round the door and eventually you should just be able to give the panel a tug and it will come away, however, before you walk off with it MAKE SURE you have unplugged the mid range speaker as that stays attached to the door card!

Once the door card is removed, carefully peel back the foam stuff inside to get at the door latch.

Reattaching the door card is basically the same procedure as removing but in reverse, however, instead of prying the door card off you will need to line up all the little clips (after plugging the speaker back in) and give it a good bang with your hand or something blunt that wont damage the card. As you do you will hear the loud popping as the clips reseat. Give the door card a good push all the way round until it doesnt click anymore and you will then just need to reattach the screws and triangular piece of trim.

HTH
-Wills

Wills, you are a star, that was exactly what I needed! When removing interior trim it's always really difficult to know what to do; sometimes it's necessary to just apply a bit more force, but other times that results in disaster...
There's just no substitute for advice from someone with experience, so sincere thanks to you.

I'll give it a go over the weekend and let you know how I get on.

Cheers,

Dan.

please let me know how you get on
i have just bought a P38 and within one day this exact problem appeared
any useful info would be much appreciated
Carl

Hi guys..
Just some info..Not sure if any use to yous...My 2.5 DSE done the same to me within 2 weeks.(read my past posts).
The passengers door would not open from inside or out and the drivers door would only lock or unlock on the key..The inside buttons had no effect..Turns out (with the help and advise from people on here) Both front locks had burnt out at the same time!
I changed the drivers lock at a cost of £150..Is a really simple job (20mins ish) that removed the inconvienience!
After a few weeks of messing about and wire chasing etc. i finally admited defeat and desided to attack the Passengers side(which was super locked shut)
Range Rover P38/4.0/4.6 Common Problems and Fixes is a great help! Door Lock Failure: Getting the Door Open (4.0/4.6/p38A) and Replacement of door latch 4.0/4.6/p38A) are a must read....Although i was advised to remove the back door and cut the lock "slam part" to gain access..The above sites advise of access is alot simpler than it looks,,
I purchased a second hand lock from Ebay £30 from a slightly later model,but the loom was different and wer'nt an easy swap,so i ended up changing the guts over......
Alls been good ever since!
Hope this is any use at all to yous and hope im right in thinking this is the kind of info to help your situation,,If i can help at all please dont hesitate in messaging me,Im no expert but have fixed my own via help from others on here
All the best and good luck Tel