p38 hit telegraph pole after steering drag link balljoint failed

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Thanks for that. Just deliberating on the best way to swap the bonnet tomorrow at the moment. Rave doesn't give much advice other than "remove the bolts with assistance" lol.
Anyone got any useful advice ?
 
alanlucas said:
Thanks for that. Just deliberating on the best way to swap the bonnet tomorrow at the moment. Rave doesn't give much advice other than "remove the bolts with assistance" lol.
Anyone got any useful advice ?
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Yeah, remove the bolts with assistance. :)

Beware the washer jets, they'll be brittle as hell. Quilt on the windscreen to stop scratches and so forth. You know about service mode?
 
Put some blocks of wood under the bonnet to take the weight of it when you undo the bolts. Plan where you want to put it in advance of moving it if you want to lay it down on something.
 
Grrrrrr said:
Yeah, remove the bolts with assistance. :)

Beware the washer jets, they'll be brittle as hell. Quilt on the windscreen to stop scratches and so forth. You know about service mode?
Click to expand...
If you mean locking the bonnet in the vertical position with the thin tabs then yes. More bothered about the sequence of undoing the bolts. I assume if i take the front 4 out then when the back two are loosened i can pivot the bonnet backwards against the windscreen ?
 
Got bonnet fitted , resealed front diff, fitted rear track rod at drivers end only, will fit passenger end once tool has arrived on Monday to press in new radius arm bushes.
Drilled out spot welds between front panel and inner wing and pulled front panel back square so new bonnet shuts properly both sides, I have a brand new front panel to fit anyway but Britpart let me down on ALR9465 inner wing - told me no longer available 3 days after ordering and paying for it, so maybe bodyshop will be able to pull inner wing out or i get one cut out of a scrapper. Took damaged wing off, secondhand one yet to arrive. The only unforseen damage was the passenger side end of the anti roll bar is bent, so with not having a scaffold pole to bend it square again, ordered 2nd hand one from eBay.
 
alr9465 - available from Phoenix Landrover in Singapore £120 + £166 shipping. Bought one from Germany instead. 90 showing on stock in UAE through a Russian website but UAE doesn't ship to the Uk. alr8391 coming from a LR dealer in Belgium, even though Britpart said they had done a europewide search and drawn a blank. Tool arrived but it doesn't fit the P38 radius arm bushes, even though it was advertised as such. More for disco 2 and range rover classic bushes, so that's gone back. Local 4x4 garage is going to press them in but he said to junk the britpart bushes as they tend to break during fitting and fit genuine ones instead. Breaker in wales has lost my wing or didn't post it as DHL tracking has no record of it at their depot - bought and paid for 7 days ago and still not arrived. two steps forward and one back at the moment.
 
Finally got radius arm bushes fitted and it's back on this car this morning. Had to take arb off to put bolts in the correct orientation i.e. nuts facing out lol.
New nuts and bolts throughout and new bushes at gearbox crossmember end too.
Nearside oxford blue wing finally arrived midweek. just waiting for the inner wing to turn up now.
ALR8391 arrived from Belgium - before front wing from Wales lol.
Given up for today buggering around with rear track rod as there isn't enough clearance for the threaded taper to be lifted into position into the nearside steering knuckle.
Radius arm and diff counterweight bracket are in the way.
 
That’s interesting as I have replaced my track rod without having to remove anything else. Have you tried putting the wheels on hard lock?
 
tomcat59alan said:
On the rear??o_O I think the op meant the panhard rod not the rear track rod.
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Sorry - front track rod. I was wrongly calling the drag link the front track rod and the track rod the rear track rod.
Managed to fit the n/s end of track rod this morning - took differential counterweight off which gave me just enough wiggle room to locate taper into steering knuckle.
Jacked up o/s/f wheel so I could rock it fore and aft to get nearside ball joint taper properly aligned so that it dropped into the knuckle.
N/s/f wing fitted too.
 
alanlucas said:
Sorry - front track rod. I was wrongly calling the drag link the front track rod and the track rod the rear track rod.
Managed to fit the n/s end of track rod this morning - took differential counterweight off which gave me just enough wiggle room to locate taper into steering knuckle.
Jacked up o/s/f wheel so I could rock it fore and aft to get nearside ball joint taper properly aligned so that it dropped into the knuckle.
N/s/f wing fitted too.
Click to expand...
Do you mean the harmonic damper? not diff counterweight.
 
Well its mechanically sorted now and the bumper, bonnet, wing, headlamp and indicator fitted.
Still needs the inner wing and front panel sorting properly.
Unfortunately I discovered that the 2nd hand bonnet was full of filler after it had arrived and was bubbling in two places, so ground them out and re-filled them, It will do for now. What do you expect for £40 I guess.
 

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Great to see that you’ve been able to keep your RR and put it straight again. It’s always been on my mind the new parts and work I had invested in my last RR before I rolled it, unfortunately, there was no chance to rescue mine. Well done.
Tricky.
 
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