When I bought the car there was a used fuel pump in the back, so I assume it was changed. From the first EDC fault code I kind of concluded that the someone who swapped the FIP didn't put it back properly as it being a bit loose could be causing the "injector timing value out of range" fault at startup rpms.It sounds like a jumped chain or the fuel pump has been advanced too much. Has anyone adjusted the fuel pump body at any point?
P38 gearbox fault and engine dies
- Thread starter feyniriel
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RangeRoller dt
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If the pump timing is way out or the chain has jumped a cog it can cause damage. Pistons hit the valves, pump backlash etc. typically it sounds like a bag of nails and jumps around a bit.
Even when they do jump a cog and it goes terribly wrong some of them survive it.
If the others have never seen 4% either I’m inclined to think it is a false reading. Get the belt sorted first see how it goes. No diagnostic can be trusted with low volts.
If it still runs rough afterwards we will help you work through the static
Even when they do jump a cog and it goes terribly wrong some of them survive it.
If the others have never seen 4% either I’m inclined to think it is a false reading. Get the belt sorted first see how it goes. No diagnostic can be trusted with low volts.
If it still runs rough afterwards we will help you work through the static
ovalandrover
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the temperature sensor under the manifold between 4 and 5 clinder can give wierd gearbox faults more in the high change range dont know if affects the engine running and also the timing is affected by the pressure reglated timing piston at the bottom of the pump which could be sticking. also the static timing method that datatech. has works
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The fuel pump was lose on the engine block?
We changed the auxillary belt which felt pretty loose. The new one is not much better, guess that's what you get for buying Britpart, but at least the tensioner which was obviously damaged is new.
The car still runs badly, rpm's jumping up and down. It's weird that it doesn't happen all the time. Sometimes I start the car and it runs fine. Next time the rpm will be jumping and car rumbling/shaking a bit.
Battery has a constant voltage according to nanocom with engine running. Modulation % is still at 14% on a cold start and starts advancing to 4% as the engine warms up.
Our research leads us to believe that the issue is indeed the static timing. However, what I'm wondering is, would the static timing not cause the car to malfunction all the time, not just sometimes?
The car still runs badly, rpm's jumping up and down. It's weird that it doesn't happen all the time. Sometimes I start the car and it runs fine. Next time the rpm will be jumping and car rumbling/shaking a bit.
Battery has a constant voltage according to nanocom with engine running. Modulation % is still at 14% on a cold start and starts advancing to 4% as the engine warms up.
Our research leads us to believe that the issue is indeed the static timing. However, what I'm wondering is, would the static timing not cause the car to malfunction all the time, not just sometimes?
Don't think it's loose, just that someone may not have positioned it 100% correctly. I honestly wonder who worked on this car before I bought it, because one of the brake pads was the wrong way on the caliper when I did the brakes a month after buying it.The fuel pump was lose on the engine block?
