When I bought the car there was a used fuel pump in the back, so I assume it was changed. From the first EDC fault code I kind of concluded that the someone who swapped the FIP didn't put it back properly as it being a bit loose could be causing the "injector timing value out of range" fault at startup rpms.It sounds like a jumped chain or the fuel pump has been advanced too much. Has anyone adjusted the fuel pump body at any point?
P38 gearbox fault and engine dies
- Thread starter feyniriel
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RangeRoller dt
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If the pump timing is way out or the chain has jumped a cog it can cause damage. Pistons hit the valves, pump backlash etc. typically it sounds like a bag of nails and jumps around a bit.
Even when they do jump a cog and it goes terribly wrong some of them survive it.
If the others have never seen 4% either I’m inclined to think it is a false reading. Get the belt sorted first see how it goes. No diagnostic can be trusted with low volts.
If it still runs rough afterwards we will help you work through the static
Even when they do jump a cog and it goes terribly wrong some of them survive it.
If the others have never seen 4% either I’m inclined to think it is a false reading. Get the belt sorted first see how it goes. No diagnostic can be trusted with low volts.
If it still runs rough afterwards we will help you work through the static
ovalandrover
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the temperature sensor under the manifold between 4 and 5 clinder can give wierd gearbox faults more in the high change range dont know if affects the engine running and also the timing is affected by the pressure reglated timing piston at the bottom of the pump which could be sticking. also the static timing method that datatech. has works
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The fuel pump was lose on the engine block?
We changed the auxillary belt which felt pretty loose. The new one is not much better, guess that's what you get for buying Britpart, but at least the tensioner which was obviously damaged is new.
The car still runs badly, rpm's jumping up and down. It's weird that it doesn't happen all the time. Sometimes I start the car and it runs fine. Next time the rpm will be jumping and car rumbling/shaking a bit.
Battery has a constant voltage according to nanocom with engine running. Modulation % is still at 14% on a cold start and starts advancing to 4% as the engine warms up.
Our research leads us to believe that the issue is indeed the static timing. However, what I'm wondering is, would the static timing not cause the car to malfunction all the time, not just sometimes?
The car still runs badly, rpm's jumping up and down. It's weird that it doesn't happen all the time. Sometimes I start the car and it runs fine. Next time the rpm will be jumping and car rumbling/shaking a bit.
Battery has a constant voltage according to nanocom with engine running. Modulation % is still at 14% on a cold start and starts advancing to 4% as the engine warms up.
Our research leads us to believe that the issue is indeed the static timing. However, what I'm wondering is, would the static timing not cause the car to malfunction all the time, not just sometimes?
Don't think it's loose, just that someone may not have positioned it 100% correctly. I honestly wonder who worked on this car before I bought it, because one of the brake pads was the wrong way on the caliper when I did the brakes a month after buying it.The fuel pump was lose on the engine block?
Datatek
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What voltage do you have at the battery just after starting?
Think Nanocom showed a bit over 14V
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Nanocom does not show correct voltage. Needs a voltmeter measurement on battery and also alternator to confirm any cable loss between the two.
Datatek
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It sounds OK, but you need to look at the battery with a DVM. Certainly you need to do the static timing of the FIP. PM me with an email address and I will send you a way of doing it without the dial gauge etc.
Gotcha, I'll measure that in the evening!
Datatek
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The fact that it threw a gearbox fault still suggests an electrical problem. I would check the earth from the engine to chassis. An easy way to do this is to put a jump lead from the battery negative to the engine and see if it makes a difference. I would also check the nuts are tight on the feed to the fuse box.
I couldn't upload a video here but I uploaded it on YT here:
Cold start this morning. It does not sound as bad as it did a few days ago, but you can still notice the rpm being out of whack and the car is rumbling erratically. Sometimes it starts normally though, the rpm decreases under 1k in a stable manner and the car doesn't rumble or shake like this.
Cold start this morning. It does not sound as bad as it did a few days ago, but you can still notice the rpm being out of whack and the car is rumbling erratically. Sometimes it starts normally though, the rpm decreases under 1k in a stable manner and the car doesn't rumble or shake like this.
Here is another video that explains the low vibrating from the drivetrain area that I've had for a year:
I've made a post about this before and I don't know if it's related. A year ago driving across Europe in hot summer weather, gearbox went limp and started making grinding sounds in drive and reverse. We tried troubleshooting for months. Refilled oil, changed oil, filter, etc. The grinding disappeared after some months and was replaced by this erratic low vibration. I can't tell if it's coming from the gearbox or engine area.
It's hard to explain sound and vibration over the internet, but in the video you can hear the rumbling, it picks up speed from "rummm.. rummm.. to rumrumrum" and then halts suddenly, returning to normal engine idling sounds. It does this over and over, starts rumbling, picks up speed and stops suddenly. I could never figure out what this is at any workshop, at best they have said the grinding (not rumbling) came from the bell housing, likely torque converter. Again, I'm not sure if this is exactly related, but it does seem to have gotten worse now with this static timing issue, so I thought I'd mention it.
I've made a post about this before and I don't know if it's related. A year ago driving across Europe in hot summer weather, gearbox went limp and started making grinding sounds in drive and reverse. We tried troubleshooting for months. Refilled oil, changed oil, filter, etc. The grinding disappeared after some months and was replaced by this erratic low vibration. I can't tell if it's coming from the gearbox or engine area.
It's hard to explain sound and vibration over the internet, but in the video you can hear the rumbling, it picks up speed from "rummm.. rummm.. to rumrumrum" and then halts suddenly, returning to normal engine idling sounds. It does this over and over, starts rumbling, picks up speed and stops suddenly. I could never figure out what this is at any workshop, at best they have said the grinding (not rumbling) came from the bell housing, likely torque converter. Again, I'm not sure if this is exactly related, but it does seem to have gotten worse now with this static timing issue, so I thought I'd mention it.
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It's not a easy job but recenter the fuel pump. When you look at the three nuts that hold it to the engine casing, there slots. Mark it's position and adjust the head of the pump away from the block away from the block a little, warm the engine and check the modulation. You will need to remove the inlet manifold and it will run with it removed but be careful of falling objects 
