P38 EAS problem (Please don't shout; I've done a search)

Seven Lucky Logs said:

Thanks for the reply; I understand that one .

As for the final part, if that was my attitude, I wouldn't be here in the first place. I always thought one of the reasons for the existence of these forums was to pass on knowledge not electronically shout at people for not possessing it.

Anyway, thank you again and I'll go and check whether the reed valves are working correctly or not.
Cheers

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Nobody is shouting at you. But if you damage the reed valves i know of nowhere you can get new ones. Be very careful with them. Secure screws with a little thread lock on assembly. If you have to replace O ring stick it on it's seat with a small amount of silicone sealant. With due respect part of the reason P38s have so many breakdowns and problems is people trying to repair them on the cheap without the knowledge to do it. I can pass you as much knowledge as you want, i cannot unfortunatly pass on apptitude. Only you know your limitations.

wammers said:

Nobody is shouting at you. But if you damage the reed valves i know of nowhere you can get new ones. Be very careful with them. Secure screws with a little thread lock on assembly. If you have to replace O ring stick it on it's seat with a small amount of silicone sealant. With due respect part of the reason P38s have so many breakdowns and problems is people trying to repair them on the cheap without the knowledge to do it. I can pass you as much knowledge as you want, i cannot unfortunatly pass on apptitude. Only you know your limitations.

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Thanks Wammers, glad we're still mates

And believe you me, I know my limitations. When someone first said I had a BECM in the Range Rover, I ran outside with my autograph book!!

Cheers
Tim

Seven Lucky Logs said:

Thanks Wammers, glad we're still mates

And believe you me, I know my limitations. When someone first said I had a BECM in the Range Rover, I ran outside with my autograph book!!

Cheers
Tim

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No problem Tim.

OK,

Quick update (mainly for those poor saps out there like me who have a little but dangerous amount of knowledge )

Now I KNOW what reed valves are (why call them reed valves though - they look nothing like reeds; more like thin flat flexible pieces of metal) and where that pesky little O ring goes (you know, the one I threw in the bin and had to rescue!! The instructions in the kit never mentioned that O ring once.)

Anyway, I'm awaiting my silicone that is holding said pesky O ring in place to cure (don't want it sucked back out of it's recess) and I'll put everything back together and check pressure output.

I'm assuming that all of the air in the system has gone so, if all is OK with the compressor, roughly how long do I have to idle the engine for to get the pressure back up?

Thanks

PS: For all the saps like me again, I found this very useful RoverRenovations

Seven Lucky Logs said:

OK,

Quick update (mainly for those poor saps out there like me who have a little but dangerous amount of knowledge )

Now I KNOW what reed valves are (why call them reed valves though - they look nothing like reeds; more like thin flat flexible pieces of metal) and where that pesky little O ring goes (you know, the one I threw in the bin and had to rescue!! The instructions in the kit never mentioned that O ring once.)

Anyway, I'm awaiting my silicone that is holding said pesky O ring in place to cure (don't want it sucked back out of it's recess) and I'll put everything back together and check pressure output.

I'm assuming that all of the air in the system has gone so, if all is OK with the compressor, roughly how long do I have to idle the engine for to get the pressure back up?

Thanks

PS: For all the saps like me again, I found this very useful RoverRenovations

Click to expand...

Run it for about 10 minutes with a door open, then shut the door and it should rise from the dead if the compressor is good

Datatek said:

Run it for about 10 minutes with a door open, then shut the door and it should rise from the dead if the compressor is good

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Thank you Datatek

<Seven Lucky Logs dances round the yard whooping with joy, then moonwalks to the house passed a very surprised wife, spins her a couple of times and struts into the house heading for the PC. "I must tell the forumistas" he's thinking. But wait....... SHE's listening and could be planning a new mystery for her Dad. Seven Lucky Logs calms and composes himself, sits down and begins to type>

Sotto voice

Well Chaps,

The big girl is up and running. Reconditioning the compressor (correctly) seems to have done the trick and all height modes are being reached. Took her for a quick drive down the M56 and she lowered when she should, lifting back up when she should too.

So, a big thanks to Wammers (even though I didn't understand a goddamn word until post 19 ) and, yes Datatek, I will be replacing the opposite airbag now that I know it's not that tricky. Thank you for the advice.

Cheers (until tomorrow probably)

I too have learned that their are some very knowledgable people on this forum. The lead from Keith has proved it's worth on mine and my mate Pauls.

Rob Edge said:

I too have learned that their are some very knowledgable people on this forum. The lead from Keith has proved it's worth on mine and my mate Pauls.

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Did you pay him for multi vehicle use?

wammers said:

Did you pay him for multi vehicle use?

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:behindsofa::mooning: running for cover.

I know, I know, I shouldn't have moonwalked in front of her.

Started this morning and a big whoosh of air from the new airspring (right rear side). Did a bit of checking and what appears to be happening is that air is being blown into the bag up until a point (a certain pressure, I presume) then air is being released. Took airline out and noticed a raised or slightly thicker part approx 8mm from the end. Had a search on here and (I think it was Datatek) had mentioned this. So, again I'm presuming here, I must have got lucky last night but it looks like the pipe is not sealing into the collett correctly because this raised bit can't get past the entry point. Does that sound right?

Anyway, I've ordered some line and a connector but when I come to connect it to the original pipe should I cut off the raised/thicker section or is that required for some particular reason?

Cheers

The line has been shortened at some point. If you are going to extend it with a connector, cut off the raised bit which is there to aid insertion.
Put the end of your new length of pipe into the airbag before you cut it as it will be easier, then cut it to length for the joint. Lubricate the pipe before insertion with a little washing up liquid or silicone grease.

wammers said:

Did you pay him for multi vehicle use?

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:hysterically_laughi:hysterically_laughi

Datatek said:

The line has been shortened at some point. If you are going to extend it with a connector, cut off the raised bit which is there to aid insertion.
Put the end of your new length of pipe into the airbag before you cut it as it will be easier, then cut it to length for the joint. Lubricate the pipe before insertion with a little washing up liquid or silicone grease.

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Ok, thanks for that.