P38 EAS Help

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Hi Guys,

Up until yesterday, the EAS on my P38 has been fine, the only slight concern to note was that on a cold morning after not being driven for 3-4 days it would take 5 mins to get up to normal height.

yesterday morning the car did not rise properly and after 15 or so minutes I got 'EAS FAULT' and all lights lit up, today I have unlocked the EAS with a cable however the car still will not rise, and the compressor is running continuously.

The faults it has come up with are as follows - I would greatly appreciate it if anyone could make sense of them for me and advise me on which direction to take to fix the problem(s)

0 : Engine speed fault
1 : Vehicle speed fault
3 : Pressure signal constantly low
1 : FR valve stuck open
0 : FL valve stuck closed
1 : FR valve stuck closed
2 : RL valve stuck closed
3 : RR valve stuck closed
5 : Exhaust valve stuck closed

Thanks for looking - any advice is greatly appreciated!
 
Confused....you seem to have two conflicting faults...

1: FR Valve Stuck Open
1: FR Valve Stuck Closed

How can it be both open and closed at the same time....well if we are going to get into Schrodingers Cat where it can be considered both Open and Closed until such time the Valve is inspected I guess...!!!

Best clear faults, ensure good communication with Car then re-read faults...

The Wammer and Datatek are the most respected knowledge on the EAS, so I am sure when they read this thread they can give an insight...

Ensure all electrical connectors are seated properly and cleaned with contact cleaner and read faults again....

The Wammer and Datatek are the guys to ask and answer
 
Remove inlet filter from compressor, put you finger over inlet. Should be suction. If not strip compressor and find out why not. If suction remove exhaust filter (to inside rear of valve block) put your finger over that if air is coming out with compressor running diaphragm valve has failed. Fault codes mean very little if you have no air pressure. Report back more to follow if everything checks out ok.
 
Hi Wammers,

really apprecate your quick response, can confirm compressor is sucking in air, slightly sucks in end of finger when filter removed, certainly doesnt feel like strong suction though, i can also feel a light stream of air coming from exhaust when compressor working...
 
Hi Wammers,

really apprecate your quick response, can confirm compressor is sucking in air, slightly sucks in end of finger when filter removed, certainly doesnt feel like strong suction though, i can also feel a light stream of air coming from exhaust when compressor working...


OK, remove compressor from mounts and lift it up. Remove blue pipe from compressor outlet. With compressor running put your finger over outlet. You should not be able to stop air coming out it should force past your finger. IF it does comprsssor is giving good air. IF not compressor needs attention(new seal). Air coming out of exhaust port means daiphragm valve is not sealing inlet gallery to NRV1 and then to tank. There are other reasons it may not be sealing, but main one is that it has split. (very common). You will need to fit a new one takes about twenty minutes to do.
 
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Hi Guys,

Up until yesterday, the EAS on my P38 has been fine, the only slight concern to note was that on a cold morning after not being driven for 3-4 days it would take 5 mins to get up to normal height.

yesterday morning the car did not rise properly and after 15 or so minutes I got 'EAS FAULT' and all lights lit up, today I have unlocked the EAS with a cable however the car still will not rise, and the compressor is running continuously.

The faults it has come up with are as follows - I would greatly appreciate it if anyone could make sense of them for me and advise me on which direction to take to fix the problem(s)

0 : Engine speed fault
1 : Vehicle speed fault
3 : Pressure signal constantly low
1 : FR valve stuck open
0 : FL valve stuck closed
1 : FR valve stuck closed
2 : RL valve stuck closed
3 : RR valve stuck closed
5 : Exhaust valve stuck closed

Thanks for looking - any advice is greatly appreciated!

Do you get "Good Idle" on the EAS software? If not that fault list is meaningless.
If the compressor is running contiuously, either the compressor is shot or you have a serious air leak or both:eek:
 
Sorry for the delay guys, finally stopped raining for a bit this morning so went out and looked at points you had advised.

Compressor is blowing out a reasonable stream of air, but I can block the hole with my finger fairly easily, also I noticed that on the outside of the compressor, one of the red seals on the barrel seeems to have a gap in it, the compressor is only 2009 however.

Wammers, I really appreciate the time you have take to advise me on this, finally could you advise me which seals exactly I need to replace, do you mean on the compressor alone or valve block also?

Thanks all.
 
Sorry for the delay guys, finally stopped raining for a bit this morning so went out and looked at points you had advised.

Compressor is blowing out a reasonable stream of air, but I can block the hole with my finger fairly easily, also I noticed that on the outside of the compressor, one of the red seals on the barrel seeems to have a gap in it, the compressor is only 2009 however.

Wammers, I really appreciate the time you have take to advise me on this, finally could you advise me which seals exactly I need to replace, do you mean on the compressor alone or valve block also?

Thanks all.

Do the compressor and valve block while you are at it Symlise on Ebay do the bits at a reasonable prices.:)
 
Sorry for the delay guys, finally stopped raining for a bit this morning so went out and looked at points you had advised.

Compressor is blowing out a reasonable stream of air, but I can block the hole with my finger fairly easily, also I noticed that on the outside of the compressor, one of the red seals on the barrel seeems to have a gap in it, the compressor is only 2009 however.

Wammers, I really appreciate the time you have take to advise me on this, finally could you advise me which seals exactly I need to replace, do you mean on the compressor alone or valve block also?

Thanks all.

Sounds like piston seal in compressor is caput. Compressor should force air past your finger no matter how hard you push. Change the piston seal and have a look at the reed valves in the compressor head. Be careful with these they can be broken. There is an O ring under the exhaust reed if you change it stick new one in with a very small amount of silicone sealer. Make sure reed sit flush onto it. Make sure inlet reed lays flat on head with no gap. Refit screws on reeds with a tiny amount of locktite. Suppose you could do the valve block O rings at the same time. Make sure you get the kit containing the diaphragm valve. Some come without it. As for the compressor seal which looks to have a gap, you will have to assess that when you strip it down, it may just be slightly misplaced or need changing.
 
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Hi Guys,

Swapped compressor with a refurbished one and although the new one pumps out a fair bit more air, the car still refuses to rise at all!

It seems that a rebuild of the valve block is in order?
 
Hi Guys,

Swapped compressor with a refurbished one and although the new one pumps out a fair bit more air, the car still refuses to rise at all!

It seems that a rebuild of the valve block is in order?

If you have tested it and cannot stop air from coming out of outlet with hard finger pressure. There are only two more things it can be. Either a big leak in the system or diaphragm valve shot. Remove exhaust filter and with compressor running put a finger over outlet if any air is coming out diaphragm is duff. Or diaphragm solenoid valve is not working which is pretty unusual.
 
Hi Wammers,

Yes can't stop air from coming out of compressor, and Im getting constant stream of air from exhaust when compressor operational, how hard is diaphragm to replace?

Many Thanks.
 
Hi Wammers,

Yes can't stop air from coming out of compressor, and Im getting constant stream of air from exhaust when compressor operational, how hard is diaphragm to replace?

Many Thanks.

Can do you a tested exchange re-con valve block with a 6 months warranty. If you are interested PM me:)
 
Right,

Finally got around to following Dopey's guide, and now everything is working spot on! no faults recorded on EAS and car is doing everything as it should.

Thanks to Wammers and Dopey for their stellar contribution and to anyone else who has contributed to the thread, so glad to have the RR back in service!
 
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