p38 diesel injectors

Im about to rebuild mine and thought I would ask if anybody has don it yet as Im a little worried there may be pitfalls with injector 4. I had a look on bosch web site and they recommend that you change the nozzles every 50,000 miles and the injector bodies every 100k but that seems a bit excessive to me. I found a place to order new Pintaux Nozzles and price is good i thought.

dieselinjectorsuk.co.uk Pintaux Nozzle DN0SD 300 £50.00 for 6 plus £5.00 shipping

Andy was a pretty helpful guy. I have to open one of the injectors tomorrow and verify the pn before ordering so any thoughts before I break something would be apreciated.

Clock guy said:

Im about to rebuild mine and thought I would ask if anybody has don it yet as Im a little worried there may be pitfalls with injector 4. I had a look on bosch web site and they recommend that you change the nozzles every 50,000 miles and the injector bodies every 100k but that seems a bit excessive to me. I found a place to order new Pintaux Nozzles and price is good i thought.

dieselinjectorsuk.co.uk Pintaux Nozzle DN0SD 300 £50.00 for 6 plus £5.00 shipping

Andy was a pretty helpful guy. I have to open one of the injectors tomorrow and verify the pn before ordering so any thoughts before I break something would be apreciated.

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Talk to @wammers

As far as I know mine have never had anything done to them and at 150k miles still seem to work. They get an Italian tune up once in a while. I'd never touch number 4 unless I absolutely had to. The wires go brittle with age so it is just asking for trouble.

ty for that but I dont have a choice. The whole fuel system has been destroyed by what I suspect was methynol based biodiesel. injectors 3,4,5 have siezed and all injectors are coated with some sort of corrosion. Its rebuild or buy a new set at ...well I dont have t tell you how much they cost. I know what you mean about the wires on 4, I just repaired them. I can only hope at this point that the sensor itself is ok.

Its not just the wire ,where it enters the injector has been known to leak and in extreme cases can let air in.....

oh joy. ...well on the bright side...by the time I get this sorted Ill have a like new RR I'll talk to Andy when I order the nozzles and see if there are some seals or something that can be replaced there and do it while Im at it
.ty for the heads up

Clock guy said:

oh joy. ...well on the bright side...by the time I get this sorted Ill have a like new RR I'll talk to Andy when I order the nozzles and see if there are some seals or something that can be replaced there and do it while Im at it
.ty for the heads up

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Well worth taking your time and making sure everything is done properly,saves having to strip it down again if you have issues. A good friend of mine completely rebuilt his injectors and replaced nearly everything with new parts. He was glad he did and it has been fine since

Clock guy said:

oh joy. ...well on the bright side...by the time I get this sorted Ill have a like new RR I'll talk to Andy when I order the nozzles and see if there are some seals or something that can be replaced there and do it while Im at it
.ty for the heads up

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I think the injectors have copper washers. Pretty certain Wammers says you can reuse them by annealing them. Heat till red hot then drop into a bucket of cold water.

Take injectors to a specialist who will refurb and crack test them. Number four can be refurbed regarding nozzle and pin but cannot be repaired if it has an electrical problem.

dubbleRR said:

Its not just the wire ,where it enters the injector has been known to leak and in extreme cases can let air in.....

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Under normal circumstances 14.7 psi of ambient air pressure cannot leak into a system working at 3000 psi.

wammers said:

Under normal circumstances 14.7 psi of ambient air pressure cannot leak into a system working at 3000 psi.

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They let air in when not running ,like a leakoff pipe thats failed....

Grrrrrr said:

I think the injectors have copper washers. Pretty certain Wammers says you can reuse them by annealing them. Heat till red hot then drop into a bucket of cold water.

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now metalurgy is something I know as an horologist, to anneal you need to heat it as you say but let it air cool slowly to soften it. If you dump it in water you will harden.

ty for the advice guys. cracked two of the offending and found no 5 had a blockage in the body preventing diesel getting in and both had stuck needles with large deposits. I thought about cleaning and refitting but it just isnt wort it for £50.00. There really isnt anything scary in there. Just a few spacers a spring and the nozzle. keep it clean and use lint free cloth to wipe down, air line to blow out the body and anybody could do it. Oh and dont forget to use a tor_ue wrench for assembly. I'll get back to you on the nm setting.
Yeah no. 4 electrics Im gonna leave unless needed but Ill need to start it first to see if there is an issue especially as I have pressure to that side of the injector and no sign of leak at the minute. (crossed eyes and fingers and legs..lol). Sorry for the lack of pics, dropped my phone and busted the screen. Im going to have the misses take a few with her phone now that the injectors are on my bench in the house and get them up later.

Oh and fyi....the part number for the pintaux nozzles is confirmed at DN0SD 300

to anneal copper heat to red and Quench in water

Clock guy said:

something I know as an horologist

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Piscied?

tarphenry said:

to anneal copper heat to red and Quench in water

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You are both right, quenching or air cooling will both make the copper softer than its fully work hardened state, however, air cooling will make it softer than quenching. The reason the Quench method is used is because it's quicker and in most cases, soft enough.

Wazzajnr said:

You are both right, quenching or air cooling will both make the copper softer than its fully work hardened state, however, air cooling will make it softer than quenching. The reason the Quench method is used is because it's quicker and in most cases, soft enough.

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glad we got that sorted! next week we'll work on hot rolling brass lmao

ok chaps....I nicked the misses phone and got some photos so you all can see what I have been on about. first pic is the injector torn down so you can see all the bits.

Clock guy said:

ok chaps....I nicked the misses phone and got some photos so you all can see what I have been on about. first pic is the injector torn down so you can see all the bits.
View attachment 131552

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Wonder if they'd go through the dishwasher and survive?!

next I'm showing you the glazing on the heat shields/valve retainer. I assure you, these injectors are dry the shine you see is the deposit left from the fuel used. I really believe this was home made bio diesel methynol based.

Grrrrrr said:

Wonder if they'd go through the dishwasher and survive?!

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LMAO! worth a try but I do have some ultra sonic cleaners and some VERY expensive watch cleaning chems I think I might try O.O

Grrrrrr said:

Wonder if they'd go through the dishwasher and survive?!

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When I was into motocross many years ago, I used to plan engine rebuilds for when my parents were out for the day so I could use the dishwasher to clean all the parts. They used to think I was such a good boy for putting all the pots through the dishwasher. It was only to get rid of the smell of oil!