P38 Diesel Injector Pump & Cam Top Dead Centre?

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UnitLandy said:
Ha ha. I'm reluctant to do so as it's a right pain in the backside to put back on again. As it happens I've got a hairline crack running along the plastic outlet pipe on the radiator. What's the best remedy for this. Araldite?
Click to expand...
Whys it hard to put back on? Remove it and wedge it away from the pullys with something, I used a piece of timber I had lying around.
No need to remove it completely off the car.
 
I can't remember the details sorry. But I remember it felt very secure with little effort. I had the same issues as you and I was trying to set modulation with a frost on the ground! Taking the fan off was the only way to get it hot, temp does climb fairly quickly so keep an eye on that whilst checking modulation on the nanocom. Annoyingly, temp and modulation aren't on the same screen on the nano but you know that I guess.
 
UnitLandy said:
Ha ha. I'm reluctant to do so as it's a right pain in the backside to put back on again. As it happens I've got a hairline crack running along the plastic outlet pipe on the radiator. What's the best remedy for this. Araldite?
Click to expand...

I think you'll need plastic weld or similar. I like Quiksteel but it needs to bed into a nice hole as it isn't too sticky. Hard as **** when cured.
 
It was off just recently when I removed the FIP so it should be relatively loose. I didn't think to copper slip it though so I'll do that this time... weather permitting.

Any advice on a cracked radiator pipe where the hose attaches? It's a hairline cracked caused by, what I believe is, someone putting a jubilee clip on too tight.

Edit: I just read your comment 😃
 
UnitLandy said:
Ha ha. I'm reluctant to do so as it's a right pain in the backside to put back on again. As it happens I've got a hairline crack running along the plastic outlet pipe on the radiator. What's the best remedy for this. Araldite?
Click to expand...
I run both mine with no viscous fan, I use the aircon fans for cooling. Much better access too.
Grrrrrr said:
Needle in the middle should be good enough.

Head temperature isn't the same as coolant but my Engine Guard head alarm is set to go off at 95°C. Typically it is between 85°C and 95°C depending on how hard the engine is working
Click to expand...
Needle in the middle is not good enough if you want to get the modulation right. Modulation varies with engine temperature and the gauge can be in the middle from just over 80C of thereabouts.
1754296895503.png

The above will give you an idea of the variation.
 
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