P38 Brake fluid leak

Hello my name is Jimmy. New to this and have bought a p38 2000 2.5d. Had it 2 months and got brake fluid leaking out near rear driver side wheel ( gushed out all over driveway, not driveable). Local garage say I have to take it to a Land Rover specialist. Spoke to them and they say the body has to come off the chassis to replace brake pipes - circa £800. Is this realistic? Thanks

No not realistic the brake pipe is rusty over the chassis above the fuel tank and can be done by making up new brake pipes with copper pipe .

ovalandrover said:

No not realistic the brake pipe is rusty over the chassis above the fuel tank and can be done by making up new brake pipes with copper pipe .

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As above but cunic is better than copper

JimmyS1 said:

Hello my name is Jimmy. New to this and have bought a p38 2000 2.5d. Had it 2 months and got brake fluid leaking out near rear driver side wheel ( gushed out all over driveway, not driveable). Local garage say I have to take it to a Land Rover specialist. Spoke to them and they say the body has to come off the chassis to replace brake pipes - circa £800. Is this realistic? Thanks

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Nonsense no brake pipe on the P38 needs the body removing. On your year it will more than likely be the small S shaped pipe that drops down at each side. Stupid money from Landrover but if you have the kit can be made for a couple of quid. Two tube nuts and about 12" of pipe. Easy access by removing splash guard from under wing. About an hours job no more than that.

Thanks for advice. Will take it elsewhere as not up to it myself.

What is cunic??

Dopey said:

What is cunic??

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Cupro nickel pipe. Like this. CUPRO NICKEL (KUNIFER) 3/16? x 25ft BRAKE PIPE BS NOT COPPER TUBING CAR VAN ROLL | eBay

Ahhh ta mucho

I've just replaced the two long pipes that feed the back brakes. The pipe that goes over the petrol tank etc to the far side can be replaced without having to remove anything on the veichle. You will need some replacement pipe clips though as you will break some getting the old pipe out. (they go brittle) Pipe is 3/16 and the connectors are 10mmx1.00mm pitch that connect to the flexi pipes etc. Do not remove the pipes in the engine bay as they will be fine. There are 2 joints behind the front wheel well cover. Start from there is my advice. I bought the tools needed and the pipe/fittings/fluid for around £100. Time wise was around 4-5 hours making up the pipes and the tricky bit of feeding them through. Make sure that none of the pipe touches the chassis once complete as they will rub through in a short time.

I just had this happen to me too. The pipe which goes down the right and then crosses to the left rear has sprung a leak by the top of the Right rear airspring.

I have it all jacked up, but it looks like a very tricky thing to thread a new pipe down the side, then across without bending it out of shape.

I have to fix it tomorrow, and I'm not looking forward to it

OXO said:

I just had this happen to me too. The pipe which goes down the right and then crosses to the left rear has sprung a leak by the top of the Right rear airspring.

I have it all jacked up, but it looks like a very tricky thing to thread a new pipe down the side, then across without bending it out of shape.

I have to fix it tomorrow, and I'm not looking forward to it

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That's why, when people have problems with their fuel pump I always advise dropping the tank to replace it so the brake pipes can be checked/replaced.

Replacing the brake pipes is an easy job. I took off the offside front arch panel to get access to the two unions, removed the old pipes, measure, cut and flare new pipes then fit and bleed.