p38 bmw diesel camshaft locking tool ?

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twincam

New Member
Posts
73
has anyone got the camshaft locking tool and flywheel mandrel i can buy borrow, hire, preferably in the exeter area but not imperitive. either that or maybe someone whose got one could give me all the dimensions to make my own getting desperate now any help greatly appreciated
 
Just by any chance are you replacing the head gasket?
Im currently in the process of doing so.

I read Rave and was supposed to have sevwral of the "special" tools in order to do this. Bugger it, so I went ahead anyway.
I have taken the head off succesfully without any of the special tools, including the timing tool, the chain pin holder and the camshaft holding tool.

I will post pictures of the whole procedure including closeups of the head and valve assembly shortly, so you and others can see how its done. I searched the web and didnt find the information so this should help fellow RR-vers.

To be brief:-
- Timing chain holding pins use a small drill bit (picture will show in next days)
- Flywheel timing tool, once again a thicker and longer drill bit (no jokes about thick and long)
- Camshaft holding tool. Didnt need. I think the only reason that tool is needed is to stop the camshaft from turning when you undo the sprocket bolt (someone correct me if Im wrong). But If you are careful undoing that bolt, the camshaft will not turn.

Stay tuned.
 
yep tha al good but to have the head refaced you have to remove the cam wich is no prob and no special tool however when it comes to setting up the cam when refitting now thats a problem i thought i could do it by eye but it runs flat as a dab its essential the engine timing is spot on before you can start looking at other causes also although i did use a drill bit on the flywheel because the access hole is larger than the hole in the flywheel its not entirely accurate and if the timing is even 1 degree out the results can be devastating to an engine that was never blessed with guts in the first place...howevr if you find yours is a good job done id be interested to hear
 
Just by any chance are you replacing the head gasket?
Im currently in the process of doing so.

I read Rave and was supposed to have sevwral of the "special" tools in order to do this. Bugger it, so I went ahead anyway.
I have taken the head off succesfully without any of the special tools, including the timing tool, the chain pin holder and the camshaft holding tool.

I will post pictures of the whole procedure including closeups of the head and valve assembly shortly, so you and others can see how its done. I searched the web and didnt find the information so this should help fellow RR-vers.

To be brief:-
- Timing chain holding pins use a small drill bit (picture will show in next days)
- Flywheel timing tool, once again a thicker and longer drill bit (no jokes about thick and long)
- Camshaft holding tool. Didnt need. I think the only reason that tool is needed is to stop the camshaft from turning when you undo the sprocket bolt (someone correct me if Im wrong). But If you are careful undoing that bolt, the camshaft will not turn.

Stay tuned.

You are wrong, undoing the cam bolt is easy without the tool, getting the cam timing right isn't.
 
yep tha al good but to have the head refaced you have to remove the cam wich is no prob and no special tool however when it comes to setting up the cam when refitting now thats a problem i thought i could do it by eye but it runs flat as a dab its essential the engine timing is spot on before you can start looking at other causes also although i did use a drill bit on the flywheel because the access hole is larger than the hole in the flywheel its not entirely accurate and if the timing is even 1 degree out the results can be devastating to an engine that was never blessed with guts in the first place...howevr if you find yours is a good job done id be interested to hear

Diesel heads should NOT be refaced
 
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