P38 2.5dse 1997 MOT

Well, im bearing better news.

It finally gave up. The remains of the balljoint got out.

i had a tube going from the upper to lower balljoint (inside swivel) and took it in the press. Applied 1 by 1 ton pressure, heated up the outside of the joint, and when i was at 6tons i said geez, i turned around after my last pump at the press and would you know it, it popped out with a very, big bang with sparks
had a ratchet strap around the swivel so it wouldnt fall down and say adios on the concrete, so i am ready to assemble everything. After i’ve changed the CV Boot, because that did not survive the hub hammering…

Well, i fitted everything and took it for a run, it leaks from the halfshaft
I pushed it in gently with a 36mm socket as others have, and it has the lip facing the wheel
seal is genuine LR

Even changed my discs and pads on front
but the seal is leaking

synchro said:

Well, i fitted everything and took it for a run, it leaks from the halfshaft
I pushed it in gently with a 36mm socket as others have, and it has the lip facing the wheel
seal is genuine LR

Even changed my discs and pads on front
but the seal is leaking

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Did you check alignment? If the half-shaft is only slightly out it will kill the seal. Similarly, any roughness on the half-shaft will sandpaper the seal away in no time. Emery (6000 grit) paper with a bit of oil will polish it nicely.

No roughness on the half shaft
I did not align it, as i didn't touch the collar, someone said if i didn't move the collar i wouldn't need to adjust aligmnent.. but i guess its off due to the leak.

I also think my collet is pretty much stuck where it sits, unsure if i can even move it...

I guess i gotta get a 32mm spanner, and the LRT-54-012 tool?

Such a shame, MOT is at 27th june, its 19th now and DHL wont ship my package so quickly
Do the MOT care about the leaking seal? It's after controll, so in theory they can just check the faults and not more investigation...
I took a 30 min drive, i dont know how severe it is to have a leak from the halfshaft, i guess not every single drop of axle fluid will escape..

But i obviously must fix it, i even have oil on the tires now..

synchro said:

No roughness on the half shaft
I did not align it, as i didn't touch the collar, someone said if i didn't move the collar i wouldn't need to adjust aligmnent.. but i guess its off due to the leak.

I also think my collet is pretty much stuck where it sits, unsure if i can even move it...

I guess i gotta get a 32mm spanner, and the LRT-54-012 tool?

Such a shame, MOT is at 27th june, its 19th now and DHL wont ship my package so quickly
Do the MOT care about the leaking seal? It's after controll, so in theory they can just check the faults and not more investigation...
I took a 30 min drive, i dont know how severe it is to have a leak from the halfshaft, i guess not every single drop of axle fluid will escape..

But i obviously must fix it, i even have oil on the tires now..

Click to expand...

That sounds pretty bad. I'm surprised it is that far out and usually you're OK if you don't touch that collar. Only other thing I can think is that the seal wasn't straight.

Grrrrrr said:

That sounds pretty bad. I'm surprised it is that far out and usually you're OK if you don't touch that collar. Only other thing I can think is that the seal wasn't straight.

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Im pretty sure it was pressed far enough in and flush with the axle, so i guess its the aligmnent which've killed the seal. I'm unsure if i should buy the tool.
I've asked a fellow p38 owner in my whereabouts if he has the tool, and possibly another seal.

I suppose it really isn't that time consuming job, now that everything is loosened, and not rusted shut for 20 years...

I guess the hard work is done for the MOT anyhow, so im not to mad about it
Just gotta fix : Coolant leak, automatic leak from plug and now the axle seal

But i am abit skeptic about the steering centering itself..
it was an MOT fault, and i cant really say it centers better after the bushings and ball joints change

Any tips on how to align it tho? Is a 32mm spanner the go to tool to adjust the collar?

I think its really stuck..

synchro said:

Im pretty sure it was pressed far enough in and flush with the axle, so i guess its the aligmnent which've killed the seal. I'm unsure if i should buy the tool.
I've asked a fellow p38 owner in my whereabouts if he has the tool, and possibly another seal.

I suppose it really isn't that time consuming job, now that everything is loosened, and not rusted shut for 20 years...

I guess the hard work is done for the MOT anyhow, so im not to mad about it
Just gotta fix : Coolant leak, automatic leak from plug and now the axle seal

But i am abit skeptic about the steering centering itself..
it was an MOT fault, and i cant really say it centers better after the bushings and ball joints change

Any tips on how to align it tho? Is a 32mm spanner the go to tool to adjust the collar?

I think its really stuck..

Click to expand...

Never had to do it but I have seen YouTube videos where people make up an alignment tool from an old bearing and a bit of PVC pipe, just so they can check it.

I'm not sure, memory not so good these day's but I think you have the seal in the wrong way round, I'm sure the lip goes inwards

I did as work on p38 did, and many else. The large suction cuppy thing outwards.
The metal part pointikg in toward diff

The seal spring faces towards the diff.
Does yours?

Flossie said:

The seal spring faces towards the diff.
Does yours?

Click to expand...

Yes

the one to the right goes out

synchro said:

Yes

the one to the right goes out

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The fact that it leaked so much and so quickly suggests a duff seal to me. Even with a little miss alignment the seal lasts a few miles. I suppose the diff breather is clear and that it's not over filled?

Datatek said:

The fact that it leaked so much and so quickly suggests a duff seal to me. Even with a little miss alignment the seal lasts a few miles. I suppose the diff breather is clear and that it's not over filled?

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nay, its not overfilled. It started leaking the first drive after new seal installment. TBH it wasnt a huge, huge leak, not dripping. it just looks huge due to it being spread out at speed. The axle looks miss aligned, but im having a huge trouble getting the collar to even move.. even tho ive undone the nut on the lower balljoint

*I've never had any previously leaks from the axle, and i changed the diff fluids a year ago almost*

synchro said:

nay, its not overfilled. It started leaking the first drive after new seal installment. TBH it wasnt a huge, huge leak, not dripping. it just looks huge due to it being spread out at speed. The axle looks miss aligned, but im having a huge trouble getting the collar to even move.. even tho ive undone the nut on the lower balljoint

*I've never had any previously leaks from the axle, and i changed the diff fluids a year ago almost*

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The collar should not need to be moved, is the lower ball joint fully seated? It's possible to measure the axle alignment roughly with a Vernier gauge using the seal recess to axle top & then bottom..

yes, ball joints are fully seated. Is it not possible to adjust it by the axle flange? As by now, the flange barely touches the lower part of the axle, and its a bigger gap from.
I saw that p38 guy on youtube, who is from Norway adjusted his axle just by the flange on the axle, to get it somewhere in the range atleast, because mine is not.

If you see my attachment here, that roundy thing is what im talking about. Is it not just to adjust the collar in order to make that roundy bit central.

As that is what i've seen youtubers done.

What im trying to explain here, is that my roundy bit (flange????) is saggy.

synchro said:

If you see my attachment here, that roundy thing is what im talking about. Is it not just to adjust the collar in order to make that roundy bit central.

As that is what i've seen youtubers done.

What im trying to explain here, is that my roundy bit (flange????) is saggy.

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Yes the disk needs to be centred to the axle, the puzzle is why it is not if the adjusting collar was not moved. I wonder if you have bent the yoke with all your hammering.

Hmm, we did angle grind the ball joint off. Is it possible some of the collar said bye bye in the process? By looking at other youtube videos, it looks like mine is screwed abit more into the knuckle. I suppose its the angle grinders fault.

I guess the collet has been cut equivelent to a grind disc, and tbh its logical ay? A grind disc is a decent size in adjustment on the collet i suppose. I didnt find any excess collet remains, so i suppose we just grinded the end and didnt leave no trace other than a shiny collet.. Didnt think to much of it.

but ive ordered new collet and seal. Now i just gotta make the damn collet move.. is it ok to smack it in the small cut with a flathead? I can not make it move with a 32MM spanner as others say work.. its somewhat rounded abit

and i guess its not left hand thread like the viscous?

as my picture shows, it is grinded abit in an angle.

As you have the the carrier off to change the coller just run a slot through it with a hacksaw you will have to take the blade out put it throw the coller then back in the hacksaw but that should free it to come out.

brianp38dse said:

As you have the the carrier off to change the coller just run a slot through it with a hacksaw you will have to take the blade out put it throw the coller then back in the hacksaw but that should free it to come out.

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good suggestion thanks will do this.
I am very thankfull for all the help on here
Without this page, i would not have kept my p38… not everything is on googele