P38 2.5dse 1997 MOT

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well i got my parts new seal and collet, sadly i got shift at saturday, so might not handle it before sunday.. time will show
I just hope the balljoints will go off the swivel easily.. i dont see why they shall be stuck............ neither tthe hub...
 
well ive used a sledge hammer and swivel wont pop off the ball joints... Neither does the trackrod.. it does not want to pop out...
Anyhow, the seal did indeed get totally destroyed..
 

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well ive used a sledge hammer and swivel wont pop off the ball joints... Neither does the trackrod.. it does not want to pop out...
Anyhow, the seal did indeed get totally destroyed..
You need a proper balljointsplitter ,one that won't destroy the dust cover on the joint.see item 5060504000727 on eBay to see what I mean.
 
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You need a proper balljointsplitter ,one that won't destroy the dust cover on the joint.see item 5060504000727 on eBay to see what I mean.

im struggling to find the item on Ebay, there are no items with such numbers.
the one i got can open 5cm and take 2cm in diameter joints.. but i just cant manage to get it inbetween the joint..
 
well ive used a sledge hammer and swivel wont pop off the ball joints... Neither does the trackrod.. it does not want to pop out...
...
For the swivel, two hammers on either side at same time, plus the wedge splitter hammered in tight to pre-load the taper. Check which joint is more wobbly, and do the other one first. That way the swivel has movement to allow the taper to move.

For trackrod ends I usually use either use the hammer trick or a tool like that ebay one.
 
fck it, im buying the truck ball joint seperator and taper joint tools for 240pounds...
will atleast get the job done for sure!! then i can get the bugger to MOT finally
funny thing is the vendor JUST started to sell thoose, or im just dumb and havent found them!
 
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Ok so i did get it off finally, but at what cost? :mad: the lower boot also took a bang!! And since its mot i suppose i need to swap it out again! And i suppose, to fo the bottom one, the upper one must out!
 

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I assume the top balljoint is trashed? No idea why it came out like that or why its so god damn stuck :D Question is if the new balljoints will be seated correctly or if the bore is to big?? Or is it maybe not considered as a balljoint change as they only been there for a week and driven 1 time
 
I assume the top balljoint is trashed? No idea why it came out like that or why its so god damn stuck :D Question is if the new balljoints will be seated correctly or if the bore is to big?? Or is it maybe not considered as a balljoint change as they only been there for a week and driven 1 time
From memory so I may be wrong,only one is a balljoint and the other is a swivel pin.:confused: are there two different part number for the top and bottom? Just checked and lower joint is FTC3571and upper is FTC3570
 
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From memory so I may be wrong,only one is a balljoint and the other is a swivel pin.:confused: are there two different part number for the top and bottom?

Yes, there are 2 different part numbers dividing top and bottom.

If i am not wrong, the top balljoint only moves vertical whilst the lower one fiddles around as a normal ball joint? Will that say i can just pop the top one in again? If its just held by vacuum or anyhow?
 
Yes, there are 2 different part numbers dividing top and bottom.

If i am not wrong, the top balljoint only moves vertical whilst the lower one fiddles around as a normal ball joint? Will that say i can just pop the top one in again? If its just held by vacuum or anyhow?
I wouldn't take the chance, you don't know what damage you've done.think it should be a turning motion rather than a vertical movement, sorry @Rubberknees .:eek:;)
 
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