p38 2.5 dt changed pump wont start

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Well i dont know! This is why my local mechanics wont touch it as the previous owner fitted new engine out a 325tds and couldnt get it to run! So i bought it as a non runner with bits of old engine in boot! so i can borrow any tools i need but they wont look at someone elses half finished job! at a guess i would say its no egr as there is no other evidence and previous owner did say he changed everything over but you can never be sure what he has done in truth

You mentioned no connector for inlet air temp sender. EGR engines don't have one they rely on a MAF for air temp. What year is the car?
 
Its a 95 N reg 2.5dt it has the connector on left side facing engine of entrance to inlet manifold but can find no cable to connect to it
 
Do you know the year of the 325 Donor engine??

The 95 RR didn't have the EGR...that was post 99...

If the 325 Donor had EGR....then thats as far as my knowledge goes and it is over to Wammers to discuss EGR / Non-EGR....
 
Dont know year of donor vehicle! I have tried to text previous owner on occasion to ask odd question but he never replies! He was very stressed at the RR when i bought it and probably ready to smash it up i believe it owed him a lot of money and time So he was probably not happy at selling it for 400 once he calmed down
 
Dont know year of donor vehicle! I have tried to text previous owner on occasion to ask odd question but he never replies! He was very stressed at the RR when i bought it and probably ready to smash it up i believe it owed him a lot of money and time So he was probably not happy at selling it for 400 once he calmed down

No the year of the Range rover. Where is the temper sensor located on the manifold?
 
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Sorry thought i had replied its a 95 N reg 2.5dt the sensor is on left side facing engine next to air entrance on inlet manifold cheers
 
Sorry missed your last post. It is not an EGR Range Rover then. You will have to find it should come out of loom just over injection pump. Won't run properly without that being connected..
 
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Id guess it would just be a case of stripping everything of bmw engine and fitting bare engine using everything from RR inlet, exhaust etc previous owner did say he had to change sump, flywheel etc
 
Tony...

If the Range Rover is 95 Pre EGR, and the Donor BMW Engine is an EGR, how would that work or is it a case of just whipping off the EGR??
Just whip the EGR kit off Ant, that's what Hippo has done on his L322. Not so easy on some cars as there is feedback from the valve to the ECU. If the valve sticks on my Trannie I get a fault recorded:mad:
 
Tony...

If the Range Rover is 95 Pre EGR, and the Donor BMW Engine is an EGR, how would that work or is it a case of just whipping off the EGR??

Just take the EGR off the donor engine. But you would need an inlet air temp sender manifold to match the Rangie pre EGR wiring and ECU. If the engine was none EGR but the car was EGR and you wanted EGR working you would have to fit the Rover manifold and EGR valve. Or i suppose you could just blank the EGR vac pipe and run it none EGR in that case you would not need the inlet air temp sender. In which case the ECU would not have a clue anything was wrong. The ECU would continue to modulate the EGR vacuum valve from the MAF signals and the system would be none the wiser.
 
Just whip the EGR kit off Ant, that's what Hippo has done on his L322. Not so easy on some cars as there is feedback from the valve to the ECU. If the valve sticks on my Trannie I get a fault recorded:mad:

Just take the EGR off the donor engine. But you would need an inlet air temp sender manifold to match the Rangie pre EGR wiring and ECU. If the engine was none EGR but the car was EGR and you wanted EGR working you would have to fit the Rover manifold and EGR valve. Or i suppose you could just blank the EGR vac pipe and run it none EGR in that case you would not need the inlet air temp sender. In which case the ECU would not have a clue anything was wrong. The ECU would continue to modulate the EGR vacuum valve from the MAF signals and the system would be none the wiser.
Ahhh...Cool...

I was thinking it may not start if the Engine was one way and the Rangie Was thinking another...but from the replies....sounds like the presence or not of an EGR wouldn't hinder the start process!
 
Ahhh...Cool...

I was thinking it may not start if the Engine was one way and the Rangie Was thinking another...but from the replies....sounds like the presence or not of an EGR wouldn't hinder the start process!

The system would just continue as normal as far as i can see. Even if EGR is fitted it is not used at startup anyway. :):)
 
Hi still more issues so back for some sound advice. I have RAVE although my 2 issues now are when went to set timing following instructions in rave firstly the pins in the dial guage kit i borrowed seem to thick yet kit states it covers all bosch pumps (for record its a draper bosch lucss diesel injection timing kit part no DTK8) i dont get any reading and im assuming pin has to go in the very thin hole in centre. I also have a issue with the tdc locking pin that i ordered and waited weeks for it is just to big and i dont believe its rust cause you can see it is slightly thicker than plug that came out hole ive checked part no and seems correct and just doesnt make sense. hence why im back here as im getting no where. Thanks
 
Hi still more issues so back for some sound advice. I have RAVE although my 2 issues now are when went to set timing following instructions in rave firstly the pins in the dial guage kit i borrowed seem to thick yet kit states it covers all bosch pumps (for record its a draper bosch lucss diesel injection timing kit part no DTK8) i dont get any reading and im assuming pin has to go in the very thin hole in centre. I also have a issue with the tdc locking pin that i ordered and waited weeks for it is just to big and i dont believe its rust cause you can see it is slightly thicker than plug that came out hole ive checked part no and seems correct and just doesnt make sense. hence why im back here as im getting no where. Thanks

Not familiar with the Draper tool. But you should have a screw in adaptor that goes into the hole in the centre of the pump. After you remove the blanking screw. You should then have a DTI with a probe screwed into it. Maybe you have the wrong length of probe if it is not reaching the back of the piston. Dimensions for crank lock pin are in my "How to" at top of page.
 
Hi thanks for reply i have the adaptor in but im thinking the problem is the probe is too thick the hole looks very fine! None of my local garages are willing to help so i suppose my question is where can i buy a probe fine enough to fit pump? As for tdc pin i got a loan of another one for a ford its slightly too narrow but fits in hole and locks so was going to attempt pump timing with that as im just desperate to get running now ive had for 6 months and only seem to be waiting on post man all the time for tools.
 
Hi thanks for reply i have the adaptor in but im thinking the problem is the probe is too thick the hole looks very fine! None of my local garages are willing to help so i suppose my question is where can i buy a probe fine enough to fit pump? As for tdc pin i got a loan of another one for a ford its slightly too narrow but fits in hole and locks so was going to attempt pump timing with that as im just desperate to get running now ive had for 6 months and only seem to be waiting on post man all the time for tools.

If the crank lock is sloppy in the hole you are defeating the object slightly.
 
Yeah was going to try and centralise the best i could with sloppy pin as it stands its my only option as ive allegedly already bought correct pin so dont see any point in ordering another unless i take it to a machine shop to get shaved
 
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